The essence of life

As we reached the crag we had chosen to climb that day, we thought we were alone since it was a week day, but noticed a man high up on the wall, auto-belaying himself. The man looked to be around 75 years old.  He asked us a few questions with a thick accent and simply could not understand that we were homeschooling. He kept asking us if it was a school group, or if we were volunteers... until I told him we were traveling together and had spent the summer in the Yukon, our home base. That, he seemed to get... and he slowly opened up. He told me that he came from Poland in the 80's and roadtripped all around Canada, all the way up to Dawson City and Alaska. I asked him where he climbed before living in this area and very humbly told me he climbed in many, many places, namely in Afghanistan before the war, in the Alps, the Pyrenees and the Himalayas. He attempted Everest and fell in a crevasse just above Camp 3 and got very injured... He reminded me of a shorter version of Yvon Chouinard (founder of the Patagonia company, you can hear his story in the great movie 180 degrees South - Conquerors of the Useless). He told me he used to ice climb and mountain bike a lot. 

Later, he asked me if I knew how the road to the Denali was, if it was doable in a small car... The man still has dreams. At 75. As we parted ways, I told him I admire the fact that he was still out there, rock climbing and mountain biking (although on easier trails, he said, "because the bones are not as solid at my age..."), that so many people who were active like him in their young age, stop being so as they age... He looked at me with his big blue eyes and simply said: But that's the essence of life.

I felt like bowing to this wise master. Instead, I just smiled a warm smile and felt extremely grateful for this beautiful encounter. There are people you cannot forget.

Rock climbing like real dirtbags in Skaha Bluffs Provincial Park

 

We spent the weekend at the Bluffs and loved every minute of it. Since JF couldn't lead or climb routes because of his broken arm (for non-climbers, leading is going up a route first and clipping the rope as you go, then installing a belay on top), so he taught Karl how to do it, which he did like a pro! Rock climbing routes have the funniest (and sometimes dirtiest) names... We climbed Lick it in your panties and Hair on a G string...! I've seen routes called Your Mom's Crack (so you could say: I climbed your mom's crack... And bike trails called My girlfriend and Your girlfriend (So you can say I rode your girlfriend or I ripped your girlfriend...! Ahem!).

We met lots of climbers that live in their vans or their old cars and travel from one climbing spot to the next. These guys live for climbing! They are the ones that are commonly called "dirtbags". I love their laid back vibe, friendliness and carefree attitude.

On Sunday night, everybody was exhausted and we cracked beers and ciders along the still warm rock walls away from the wind, watching the sunset on Skaha Lake. We came back to our cars as night was falling, feeling our tired bodies, smiling from cheek to cheek, feeling so very alive. 

**If you want to learn more about the fascinating history of rock climbing (and dirtbags!), I highly recommend you watch the awesome movie Valley Uprising. We watched it (again!) with our friends on Saturday night and they loved it!

Lodgepole Lake Rec Area

Beautiful early Sunday morning light on the lake.

Perfecting his one-handed wood chopping skills

I felt just like Java when we set foot in this beautiful place! Freedom!!

I felt just like Java when we set foot in this beautiful place! Freedom!!

As we pulled into Lodgepole Lake Recreation Site and realized we scored again by finding an amazing free place to camp by a beautiful lake (water is a big asset when dry camping) in a gorgeous location with crazy good cell signal, we jumped off the bus and went straight for the lake, smiling and excited! Freedom!! Nature!! Peace!

A few days ago, as I sat in the little patch of overgrown grass beside the Walmart parking lot, between old crumpled Tim Horton’s paper cups and BigMac wrappers, Java rolled on his back, four paws in the air, blissful. I looked at him and said: I get it, buddy… I miss nature too…

Yesterday, I watched him run all over the place in the empty campground and pounce on swaying grass, and I felt just like him inside! I belong here. I *need* nature to be well. I need a bonfire under the stars and a completely silent dark night to feel rested. And I need to feel rested to feel like myself. So, cheers to another beautiful place to spend the week!

*We have discovered the BC Rec Sites (official Website) as great camping options. Some are free or much cheaper than provincial parks (PP) ($12). The sites have fire pits, picnic tables and are often much less busy than PP. The stay limit is 14 days in a month.

Last days at Boer Mountain

Fall is well on its way here. During the time we stayed at the campground, we really saw nature going from summer to fall. The colors are amazing now!

This place is one of the most amazing camping spots we have ever been to. Boer Mountain has left us many unforgettable memories... and a few scars.  Seriously, what are the chances to find world class bike trails out your door, a beautiful lake to paddle on, a free peaceful campground (and free firewood!) five minutes from a friendly town with everything you need? 
Boer Mountain, we will be back.

Bike, eat, sleep... rinse and repeat (and a bit of kayaking too)!

The kids spent many hours carving spoons around the fire. They have to burn the center to make it hollow.

The biking crew!

Muddy trails!

The Northern Aqua Ninja, a very rare specie!

With 10 bikes to take care of and all the riding that happens around here, there is almost always someone working on a bike...

The girls taught our new friend Lee and his girlfriend how to cook bannock over the fire

Oh the beautiful sky! We have been hoping to see Northern Lights, but no luck so far!

Living so close to nature, I cannot help but notice every little change in the environment around me. How the light changes throughout the day depending on the weather. How the beaver spends his day going back and forth across the lake, collecting timber for his hut. How the mama duck swims around the lilypad patch with her 6 ducklings... Even the unicyclist with his bear bells (yes, on a mountain bike unicycle... He goes down When Pigs Fly and Charlotte's Web on it!!) that rides by our campsite every night at the same time, like a swiss watch. 

There is something quite comforting in that sameness, that predictability.

When Jennifer and I went for a kayak outing at sunset, we stopped paddling for a moment once we reached the other side of the lake and listened in silence. The sun warmed our faces and we smiled at each others. Both of us strangers in that self-contained world. 

When Pigs Fly

How many bikes and persons can you fit in a Westy? For this ride, 8 bikes and 10 persons!

Hail!!!!

The trail network at Boer Mountain is pretty amazing! One of the most popular ride is called When Pigs Fly. And yes, that's the trail on which JF broke his arm (only because he was going too fast into a jump). You can see it here on YouTube. It's a very flowy trail with big berms and lots of jumps. The first time I did it, it really kicked my butt and I walked most of the berms. My sweet friend Jennifer waited for me, gave me tips and encouraged me to keep trying.

There is another short fun black diamond trail that the kids love called Smells like Bacon (seriously! Bike trails and climbing routes have the best names!). All the trails have been named with a pig theme in mind (Slaughter House, Charlotte's Web, Soooeet, Curly Tail, etc.). 

Every Wednesday, local youth from the bike club come and do some trail work in exchange for a shuttle up at the end of the night! The club is very active and organize an awesome bike fest (The Big Pig) around mid-August every year.

And someone sure had fun finding names for the age categories:

1. Cutlet - 12 and under

2. Junior Tender - 13-15

3. Senior Tender - 16-18

4. Lean - 19-34

5.Gristle - 35-49

6.Freezer Burn -50+

The Reunion

Supervising our dear friend while he fixes the coolant hoses

Sewing, of course!

Java now has two families... and two homes!

The kids spent many hours building forts

Even doing the dishes is fun with your best friend!

Remember when we said goodbye to our beloved traveling friends last April in Moab? Well, we were supposed to meet in Southern BC, but with all the events from last week, this amazing family came all the way up to be with us and give us a hand! How awesome is that?
We are so happy to be back together and it feels like we never were apart. Having these wonderful kids in my bus feels so natural... There are so many adventures ahead of us! I am excited beyond words!

A perfect evening under the full moon

We have had a pretty intense week, but it's also been a pretty amazing one! I have felt closer to my girls than I had in a long time and this alone, felt pretty wonderful. On Friday, I was litterally bursting with gratefulness for the life I live. After a rainy morning, the sun surprised us and came out in full force. Mara, Mathilde and I went for one of our favorite ride (Aisha has pain in one knee and she should only ride the mostly flat trail around the lake for a few days... which we call the Java trail since it's his daily ride...). I feel more confident by the day even if I have more bruises than I can count. JF calls me his little dalmatian...!  

When we came back, I made one of my famous frappé in the Vitamix to curb the effort migraine I felt coming (Three Sisters Kicking Horse coffee frozen in ice cubes - espresso shots from our machine - with half and half and a little bit of maple syrup!) and went back for a lake side ride with Aisha and Java. We stopped on our favorite campsite on the other side of the lake (accessible only by feet or bike) on a peninsula and watch the sun come down on the lake together. When we came back, I made delicious lemon garlic thyme cream pasta and opened a cold bottle of local Riesling. We ate in the setting sun.

The girls and I then grabbed the lambskins and our sleeping bags and went to the dock to watch the moon rise. When the sun came down, bats came flying around us on the lake. A beaver swam nearby. Suddenly, we saw it: the beautiful bright moon coming up between the trees. Then, Mathilde spotted the first star. Soon enough, we could see Orion and Cassiopea (my favorite constellation!) and even a few shooting stars. It was very sweet to hear Aisha say: I don't know what to wish for... I really have all that I could want! And Mathilde say: I wish I could have my very own moon that would follow me around all the time... That girl! One day, she will make a man work hard...! 

We layed down a long time in the dark silence of the night. An owl hooted in the distance... I said I wouldn't leave until I heard the loon... At around 10, we heard it. I looked at my daughters' faces, illuminated by the moonlight, smiled a fully contented smile and took a deep breath to remember this moment forever. Now, we could go to bed.

Day 4: Making the best of it

Nature's laundromat

Nature's bathtub

Dishwashing with lake water.

Can you see the dragonfly right by her hand? There are tons of them around here. Which is good because it means less mosquitoes!

Having a big red bus, a cool Westfalia and a funny puppy comes in handy sometimes. Especially when you are parked right where lots of bikers start their rides. The people we rode with on the weekend come back here almost every day, so when JF told the guy that works at the part store about having to drive 80 km to get our Westy part, he said he could have it shipped right here in Burns Lake for $10!  One less thing to worry about! 

It was a very hot day (by Yukon standards!) and we decided to enjoy the lake while the sun was high in the sky. We jumped in  the cold lake and let the sun warm up our skin lying down on the dock while rainbow trouts jumped all around us!

Later, the twins and I went for a longish ride. They convinced me to try the 4 Cross course (I did it!) and I rode most of a black diamond trail with them (except the wooden features, drops and wall rides!). I was pretty proud of myself! It was so cute to see the girls cheering for me all along! Mara stayed behind me the whole ride and gave me tips and corrected my positions!

At some point on the trail, Aisha (who was yelling and singing non-stop... to the point of having a sore throat after an hour...) stopped and bursted into tears. She had contained her fear of meeting a bear, but felt overwhelmed by it now... (she woke up with terrible bear nightmares the night before... poor girl...). We sat and talked for a while and she decided she wanted to keep on riding. So we did! What a brave girl I have! 

We were so hot after our ride that we went straight to the lake and jumped with our clothes on!! It was such a special moment to swim in that beautiful quiet lake with my big girls, all three of us high on endorphins and pride! As I came out the lake, one of the girl found a HUGE leech on the back of my tank top. We all freaked out and undressed right there, checking each other out, giggling and screaming! For some reason, this whole adventure almost felt like a rite of passage. My girls teaching me mountain bike skills, Aisha and I both facing our fears, Mara holding us in her peaceful energy the whole time. I felt so honored to be there with these two wonderful young girls. I think we all felt it. 

When we sat beside the fire by the lake that night, Aisha wrapped her arms around me and held me tight, a big grin on her beautiful face. We didn't need any words. 

Day 3: Rolling with the punches

Who's taking this whining little guy out at night now?!  Three times last night!!!! Arrghhh!

Tacos and a good Grasshopper beer make everything a bit better...

There they go again...

Warming up the shivering puppy...

Westy mechanic 101. Since papa can't do it with one arm, the girls are learning!

When we woke up, the (usually great) Internet connexion was down... We laughed it off with a triple shot latte (at least there was sun to provide some electricity to run the coffee machine!). Let me recap the last week for you: first my computer stopped working a few days before we left the Yukon when JF installed Windows 10 (he spent A LOT of time trying to fix it, online, on the phone, in store, without any luck, so we only have one computer between the two of us, which is a problem, because we often have to work at the same time...). Then, in the middle of the Cassiar Highway (in the middle of nowhere, where there was no cell connexion for a few hundreds of miles), a part of the tow system broke, leaving us to drive the two buses separately. When we climbed the hill leading to Kager Lake on Boer Mountain, JF smelled coolant and discovered a hose had just popped... After a few tests, he found out that there was no moving the bus from its location until that was fixed. 

Then, he broke his arm and on that same night, we thought the Westy's engine was fried. So we were stuck 5 km up on a dirt road, with no running vehicles (the area where we are parked looks like a garage yard right now with the front of the bus open and parts everywhere...), we are practically out of fresh water. The girls haven't showered in over a week. JF needs meds from the pharmacy in town for pain and to prevent infection in his many road rashes. We need to go get the part to fix the bus tomorrow 80 km away.

I might be an eternal optimist, but I still see our luck in the bad lucks. The part on the Westy is under warrantee, and we should receive it in a few weeks. We were VERY lucky JF saw the Westy moving to the side in his rearview miror, because we could have easily lost it in the ditch... Or we could have broken down completely and not be able to move from where it happened. We have met a local guy that works at the parts store in town while biking this weekend and he was able to help us. The Westy's engine seems fine. We needed to replace the coolant tank (that completely split in two) and the alternator belt. 

And most importantly, JF is alive, not disfigured, and his fracture should heal fast. We have a lake nearby to get some water (and clean ourselves if we are brave enough!) and we still have food for at least a few days. JF called the towing to bring the Westy to a local mecanic he rode with on Sunday. We have amazing trails right off our door and the girls and I will take advantage of that. Oh! But life doesn't give us much rest! The gilrs and I surprised a bear that was eating thimbleberries. Poor Aisha was in front and got very scared... We talked to him, but we could still hear him in the bushes, so we turned around... I sure am glad it happened when we were only 10 minutes from the bus! A half an hour earlier, I had asked Aisha to stop singing loudly, because she was driving me batty... I told her to just make noise every 2-3 minutes... The problem is, in 2-3 minutes on a bike, you cover a lot of ground... On our after dinner ride, I told them they could sing non-stop the whole ride... Trust me, the bears did not stand a chance!!

Boer Mountain, DAY 2: The shit hits the fan...

A dock... water... Déjà vu... RUN for your life!!!

I love Monday mornings at campgrounds. The place is empty after a buzzing weekend. Here, at Boer Mountain, the campsites are right by Kager Lake, so we went to sit on the dock in the morning sun and watched our new friends fish as we chatted. It was a gorgeous day and we were already making plans for the trails we wanted to ride. Since the people we had met were leaving in the afternoon, the girls and JF arranged for one last shuttle up the mountain with them.

I had done the shuttle the day before and knew that by the time I drove back down, the riders were usually back down too. But their pickup had been down here for a while and there was still no sign of them. I watched the clock, trying to convince myself that they probably had decided to try a different trail. I tried to quiet down the voice that was telling me that something was wrong. 

I was working on a translation contract when I heard Mathilde starting to give a guy the spiel about the Westy and the bus (the girls are getting pretty good at answering questions on our rig!) and came out to help her with some details. That's when I saw JF approach, all bloodied face and scratched, his woolen shirts ripped and with a weird look in his eyes. When he peeled off his glasses and I saw the gush on his nose, my legs almost went from under me (I would have been a very bad nurse...). Turns out he had caught a jump too fast and went flying and crashed face first on When Pigs Fly (just thought it was funny... I can now call him my little flying piglet...!). A minute after the crash, a friend found him sitting by his bike, dizzy. He helped him change his tube, assessed the damage and they slowly rode back down. We were on concussion watch for a while. I tried to convince him to have his painful shoulder checked at the hospital, but he said it felt OK (I knew he was still on adrenaline... and I also know that JF is always OK...). I sure am glad he had his full face helmet and protections when it happened (he doesn't usually wear them...). 

By 6 pm, he was looking worst and we decided to go to the ER. Sure enough, he had broken his humerus! The doctor said the tendon pulled so hard on the bone that it ripped the bone! The good news is that in a situation like that, one of two things happen: either the rotator cuff tears or the bone breaks. And a break is a much better option. Since they can't put a cast on a shoulder, he has to wear a stabiliser sling (absolutely no movement for 2 and a half weeks). Then, if he is painfree, he can slowly get moving. If not,  he will need to have an ultrasound done to assess the damage (if any) to the ligaments and tendons. 

After the verdict fell, we all piled back into the Westy and drove back up to the bus. When I turned off the engine, we heard a weird noise coming from the back. We jumped off and saw it: the white smoke! "Let's hope it's not the head gasket!",  we both exclaimed at the same time, incredulous... Really?! How many bad lucks can you have in a week??

JF turned around, leaving the Westy behind in the dark, and said: "I need a beer!"

Mountain biking at Boer Mountain, in Burns Lake, British Columbia, DAY 1

Inviting...

Under the proud paternal look...

That's a skinny skinny!!

Boer Mountain Bike Park is the first of its kind as the park is the only mountain bike park to be build on Crown land in Canada. There are miles of classic singletrack offering riders a sequence of cross-country, freeride and downhill trails, as well as a skills park, jump park and Rider Cross track. This park was also designed by Whislter park designers and the best part is it is free to use. There are about 15 campsites with picnic tables and firepit, as well as a huge parking area for bigger rig (all for free, 14 days max for camping).

We were lucky enough to meet some of the locals that were part of the project since the beginning and helped designed the trails (thanks to our friendly puppy!). We chatted for a few hours and JF and the girls went riding with them the next day. Since the Carcross episod, I felt very unsure about my biking skills. My confidence was at its lowest low and I declined a few more challenging downhill rides with these skilled bikers.

After reading the trail descriptions on the map, I asked JF and the girls if they'd come try some cross-country trails with me. I tried to focus on the skills the girls had me practice on the pump track in the morning. My thighs burned from the effort and the constant standing up. The sharp turns were challenging and I walked the wooden boardwalks behind the girls, feeling like a big wuss... I took a deep breath and tried to channel a friend (who is so at peace with where she is at in terms of skills, even when riding with experienced people) who often says when she walks parts of the trail: I don't make one with the bike yet! And I smiled, clearly not feeling at one with the bike... At other moments, I heard another friend whispering into my ear: Trust the bike! And I did... for a few hundred meters... until, a jump threw me off balance.

Tears welled up in my eyes. I heard my friend who just last week told me: You are brave. And I felt it. I was being brave. I was back on the horse!

As I looked at JF watching the girls with pride in his eyes, I decided turn that same gaze towards myself. I was proud of myself. Proud to be there, riding berms and managing sharper turns than before, my heart pounding, feeling the flow of the trail. And my confidence increased. Thanks for riding with me today, friends!

But that, my friends, was only Day 1... Things got a little more... action packed on Day 2... Stay tuned! Spoiler alert: don't look on Facebook!

Under the rain in Meziadin Lake Provincial Park

The rain on my face, hiding the tears as I stand on that black pebble beach, hair dripping. I wash my empty coffee mug in the clear freezing cold water. I feel myself melting into the landscape. The mist, the cloud covered mountains and the weather matching my mood. I stand there a long time, taking in the magic of this place I love so much.

I distractedly caress a smooth rock between my fingers, lost in toughts. The puppy's playfulness contrasting with my heaviness. He barks at a rock, paws at the water, and his antics make me smile.

As I scan the horizon for grizzlies, I notice that the clouds are slowly lifting, reavealing even more beauty. I exhale. The clouds always lift.

 

Heading South: Down the Cassiar in two buses

JF had an... ahem... interesting technique to teach Java to swim...

Java was NOT impressed...

We munched on high bush cranberries and perfectly riped rosehips on our hike

There were lots of puppy breaks...

A part of our tow system broke and JF had to unhook the Westy that I now had to drive...

LOTS of puppy stops...

My famous voodoo sandwiches!

When I pulled out the Alaska, Yukon and Northern BC map, I smiled when I saw the notes the girls had written on it on their way up while I was in Quebec (Fort St John's: ate dinner, Pink Mountain: made beds, Fort Nelson: sleep, Teslin: gas, Whitehorse: we made it!).

We stopped at Boya Lake Provincial Park to hike a bit and eat dinner by this gem of a lake. A little before Dease Lake, a part of our tow system broke and JF unhooked the Westy that I now had to drive. I followed the bus for hours. As the sun slowly set on the mountains, I could see the silhouette of one of the girls' head through the bus window. It felt strange to peek inside the bus from the outside, as if I was lookoing at my life from afar. I smiled at the sight. 

A slanky bear crossed in front of us, further down, a few cubs scampered off into the woods. The day started to turn into night and we kept driving under the stars. I lost myself in thoughts and felt the road swallowing me in her dark belly. 

Okanagan Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia

Crampy feet from the freezing cold water! They still played for a good hour with that log together! It was a beautiful sight to see!

My mom flew in from Quebec to spend 2 weeks with us before we drive north to the Yukon for the summer. The Okanagan Valley is the perfect place to camp at this time of year. We have enjoyed the beautiful Okanagan Lake and did a beautiful short hike at Hardy Falls. JF found an awesome used Santa Cruz (Juliana) mountain bike for Aïsha (hers was getting small so it went to Mathilde) and she was zooming around the campground on it at every hour of the day (when she was not reading her new books that Mamie brought her or perched high up on a tree). It was the perfect setting to celebrate Mother's Day together. We had long conversations in the morning sun and around the bonfire at night. I am so fortunate to have such a fun, easy-going open-minded mom!

Summerhill Pyramid Winery, Kelowna, BC

When we did some research to find a winery to visit in the Okanagan Valley and chose the organic and biodynamic Summerhill Pyramid Winery (where they age wine in a pyramid), we expected to be greeted by a bunch of crunchy people. It was quite a shock to see tour buses and a very commercial place when we arrived... We soon found out that is was the biggest and most visited organic winery in Canada! About twenty minutes into the tour (so far a very typical winery tour where the biodynamic practices still hadn't been mentionned...), the guide led us into the pyramid, asking us to remain silent, take a seat, close our eyes, open our hearts and feel the energy of the place. Now we were talking!! The place was filled with cristals, goddess statues and a magic lamp... there were a copper pyramid inside the actual pyramid and an altar in the middle of the room with candles all around... When we asked what they were for, he said it was from their last full moon celebration! Groups of people come to meditate there too... Sounds like it benefits the wine since in a blind-tasting of 10 000 persons, 95% prefered the pyramid-aged wine!

Here's what they say about the effect of the pyramid on their website:
The knowingness of eternity awaits us in this sacred chamber. The word Py-ra-mid means "fire in the middle". We all have this fire in the middle. It is our hearts, our souls. We are mostly liquid and we are affected just like the wine is effected. The effect is clarification. If a wine has a flaw in it, the flaw is accentuated. If the wine has good qualities, they are enhanced. We humans are mostly liquid so when we enter this sacred chamber, it is a grand opportunity to clarify our own inner selves. This chamber helps us to get to the knowingness of who we are. We are electrical in nature, with impulses running from our brains through our spinal columns. We are receivers, we are conduits, and this chamber enhances our receptiveness, opening the left and right sides of our brains, much like the dolphins, whales, and elephants who are in touch with Essence, the all-one ‘soul of the world’.


Many experiments have been documented in replica pyramids. For instance, it is well established that rather than rotting, milk turns to yogurt, meat petrifies and razor blades will become sharper in the pyramid (this has been patented). A timed photography experiment, conducted outdoors in an open frame pyramid, revealed that a plant growing inside the pyramid grew in a clockwise motion, while a twin sister plant nearby but not in a pyramid grew "helter skelter".

We tasted six of their wines and, call us wine snobs, but we were not overly impressed. We liked the Cipes Brut (a sparkling white), cared for the sparkling rosé and really liked the Blanc de Noir, but really did not care for the Riesling, Syrah rose and Pinot Noir. The girls were given non-alchoolic cider in the same glasses as the other guests and it was the exact same color as the Riesling. You should have seen the look on people's face!! Honestly, our friends at Domaine Bergeville who produce 3 delicious sparkling wines (a white, a rosé and a red) have nothing to envy to them.

 

Hayne's Point Provincial Park, Osoyoos, BC

It had been a really long day. A day of waiting at the garage for the Westy to be ready (and then, seing the bill…) and then waiting for hours in traffic because of a car accident. It was warm and sunny outside. Clearly not the best day for being stuck in the bus.

When we arrived at Hayne’s Point Provincial Park at 9:30 pm, the campground was full. Fortunately, there was still some room in the overflow, right by the lake. The girls had been sleeping for an hour, but when we arrived, Aïsha said she was too warm. She joined me outside. It was pitch black. And we stood there in silence, hugging each other, looking at the stars. She decided she wanted to go for a swim, climbed down the rocks to the lake and jumped in! Ahh! The feeling of swimming in complete darkness! She was smiling from ear to ear as I let the warm wind wash out the frustration of the day.

Funny how morning never knows what evening will bring…

 

P.S. The photos have been taken the next morning...

To the land of the midnight sun

DSC_0156.jpg

All the regulars were there: the stone sheep at Muncho Pass, the bison herd near Coal River, the shiny black ravens everywhere along the road. By Watson Lake, we had stopped counting the bears…

There was the tasting of the first fireweeds and a happy dance as we entered the Yukon and recognized the familiar smell of the northern air. “It’s our birthplace!” Mara exhorted. Ahh! The feeling of home. I hope they always feel this way when they come here.

There were barely any bugs at Liard Hot Springs this year, which made for a pleasant soak as we chatted with another traveling family from Quebec. And at 9 pm, the sun was still high in the sky as we inched towards Whitehorse.