A family week in Utah

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The girls were super excited to go pick up Grand-maman Claudette and Serge (JF's mom and her partner). We hadn't seen them in almost two years!

We went to eat lunch at LYFE Kitchen in Vegas. So good!

We spent the first night at Las Vegas Bay Campground and the second one at Sand Hollow State Park, near St. George. We were so happy to swim in this beautiful (and freezing cold) water, surrounded by red rock cliffs and black volcanic rocks.

We then spent two nights in Zion National Park. Here they did the Riverwalk that leads to the entrance of the Narrows (the Narrow hike that I did with Martin was closed because there was a risk of flash flood and the water level was too high).

On Tuesday, Mathide decided to spend the day with her grand-parents while JF, the twins and I hiked Angels Landing and a part of the West Rim Trail (this picture was taken on the West Rim Trail).

Our campsite in Zion.

We then drove from Zion to Bryce Canyon through the tunnel. The view is absolutely stunning!

The girls (and Java!) were pretty excited to see snow! Bryce Canyon is located at 8000 feet and there were still many patches of snow on the ground.

We hiked Queen's Garden Trail and Part of the Navajo loop with Claudette and Serge, for a total of 6,5 km with lots of ups and downs. They did great! We were impressed!

We had a huge campsite in Bryce and the girls built a zip line. They had so much fun!

We went to celebrate the girls' birthday (and our last night together) at the Bryce Canyon Lodge with a delicious meal.

We had a great time playing cards at night and chatting by the bonfire. It was great to see the girls reconnecting with their grand-parents. Six days went by pretty fast.

Las Vegas Bay Campground, NV

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That's the back of our campsite, a long point along the canyon rim. Pretty cool. Awesome for sunrise and sunset watching. Note the chairs in the background. Note that there are no trees to tie the dog. Mara thought it was a good idea to tie him to the black chair. Five minutes later, our Dutch neighbor came frantically knocking on our window screaming: Da dag is ranning dawn da canyon with da chair!!! Ahem.

The Bluff trail, right from the campground.

Let me tell you a bit about my fixation with cups and glasses. We've been making do with thrift store plastic glasses since we are on the road and I really wanted to upgrade to some nice durable stainless steel ones. I used some of my birthday money (thanks Dad and Hélène!) to get 4 tall smoothie glasses, 4 small ones - perfect for a sip of water and wine - (love them!!) and two medium cocktail ones - great for red wine too. I've realized that if I can't live clutter free (an impossible task when you live in a bus with 4 other persons), I at least need to surround myself with some beautiful and useful objects. And looking at these glasses all neatly aligned in the cup holders along the kitchen wall make me so ridiculously happy! Oh, and my story wouldn't be complete without telling you about my favorite pottery mug (a gift from my friend Helen Ann, from her hometown in BC) for my morning triple shot latte and my bilke cup (from my friend Martine, from Rossland, BC, an avid biker) for my afternoon two shot latte (I know this sounds totally coffee snob, but you'd think otherwise if I'd make you one!). And there's also my Jennifer souvenir mug (absent for the picture) for the mornings when I need a 4 shots one or a warm tea at night!

Just walking to the end of our site...

Glory bowl in the making. One of our staple camp recipe.

One of the most dangerous beer there is. So refreshing and delicious! Not your Father's Ginger Ale from Small Town Brewery.

Making Negronis! Yum! It tastes like Italy!

Some bus and bike mechanics, lots of drawing and writing by the canyon, some drink mixing, lots of delicious food cooking outside (and playing cards by the lantern light). That's the right way to start a vacation!

We camped here last year and deemed it the best campground we stayed at (campsite #52). It was only $10/night last year, but it is now $20/night (no services, water and dump onsite, no shower building). It is still a gorgeous place, but with Lake Mead Rec Area BLM right there (free), it felt like a big splurge. Still, having a campsite with your own canyon rim is a pretty cool thing!

We also went back to Bootleg Canyon for a bike ride on my official birthday (I know, I know, bear with me...). I remembered that I hadn't liked that trail network much last year, but thought it might be a matter of experience. Well, it wasn't. I just don't care for loose rock and poorly maintained eroded trails (much worst than last year) with slippery narrow exposed sections... It really wasn't our best ride... And you know what it reminded me? That I have taken to celebrate my birthday over a long period instead of on that one day because historically, since we have had kids, it almost always ended being a really rough day with the girls and a birthday flop. So cheers to a birthday month! And yes, it's over now. You won't hear about it till next year!

Mountain biking on the Hurricane Rim Trail network, Utah

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Jerud and Ching's Toaster reflects the light so beautifully.

Once again, we found an amazing free camping spot right by an incredible mountain bike trail network (also called the JEM trail since it is one of the main trails here). Biking from our bus is such a treat and we've been on our bikes almost everyday since!

We've been having fun trying to locate the trails that we see in the movie Where The Trail Ends  (some of it has been filmed right here in Virgin!), and have seen a few crazy lines out there on the mountains.

Rock climbing in Cochise Stronghold, AZ

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When we first arrived at the foothill of the Stongholds, we felt like we just stepped in the African Serengeti. There were no more cacti, just tall dry grass, mesquite and sycamore trees and beautiful mountains. We expected to camp in a big open dusty parking lot with lots of other climbers, but instead, we stumbled upon a little camping spot, perfect for our two families, a mere 3 minute walk from the climbing walls. We popped the Westy's top, pitched the tents under the trees (we hadn't seen tall trees like that in months! We were exstatic!) and called it home for the weekend!

Java looked just like a dingo in this tall dry grass!

The beautiful 3 min approach walk to Sweet rock crag.

These 2 Mr. Muscles brought their girlfriends rock climbing for the first time on Valentine's Day. That cute Eastern European blond girl was pretty stressed out, but played along. The guys didn't even explained to her how to come down (that's the first thing you practice, especially outside) and the poor girl panicked 3/4 up the route (there routes are high!) and could not come down. Jen was climbing the route right beside her and walked her through it, in her usual comforting and compassionate way. When they say something make or break a relationship... well, this guy might not have had the Valentine's night he expected...!

Crag dogs are perfect for rests between climbs.

Climbing can be such a mental game. I'm so glad Jen can help Aïsha work through her fears when they come up. She truly is a second mom to my girls.

Hard-working hands.

This amazing woman turns 40 this week and this incredible weekend was how she wanted to celebrate. It could not have been more perfect. We had permasmiles in our faces at all times, constantly repeating to ourselves what a great life we have created for ourselves. 

There were lots of very dry cow dung around our camp and we used it as fire starter. The kids thought it was pretty funny, but they quickly understood why many people do this across the world. Cheap and efficient fuel!

Java thought that collecting cow dung was a pretty fun game.

Wipe shower! We gave the kids 2 wipes each and told them to bring them back only when they were black!

Mission accomplished!

I feel so fortunate to share this life on the road with this incredible woman (and her family that I love deeply). She is such an inspiration for all of us. It was her first time back on the rock since her fall in Joshua Tree, and she had to work hard to stay focused on her love for rock climbing. She is such an exemple of courage, strength and perseverance.

After one hard climb, she told Aïsha: When you do something that scares you, your're not afraid, you're brave. Who wouldn't want such an incredible woman in their life!

Happy 40th my dear, dear friend! I am a better person for growing at your side. To 40 more years of adventures, laughter and happiness!

More Joshua Tree rock climbing and bouldering goodness

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After the Thanksgiving crowd came and went, Joshua Tree is back to its normal quiet self, especially during the week, away from the main tourist destinations of the park. We have the crags to ourselves and it feels glorious!

One afternoon, the kids didn't feel like joining us, so JF and I took off just the two of us while they stayed back at camp with their friends and Jennifer and Karl. We were exhilarated to be climbing just by ourselves. I could actually hear the silence of that place, the bling-bling of the quickdraws dangling from JF's harness as he climbed, the swoosh of the rope as I quickly fed him some rope to clip. We each climbed two great routes in less than 2 hours, something impossible when you have to belay 6 kids on every route! 

When we came back to the rig, the 6 kids had completely cleaned the bus and had prepared a delicious feast for the both of us! How awesome! We were speechless!

Since we are back at Joshua Tree North BLM, we are only 15 min from Indian Cove (one of the main rock climbing sector in Joshua Tree NP) and we go there every afternoon. Yesterday, after trying to set up a route and deciding against it after the first bolt (yes, we are very careful!), we worked on some bouldering problems. Boudering is hard work, but oh so rewarding!

Boondocking at Joshua Tree North BLM

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The girls made a sun dial

Do you see how different the light is in the desert? The sun feels hot on our skin during the day and it feels glorious to lay on the hard cracked soil and soak up its warmth. The night air is crisp and smells of winter. The sky is wide open and the moon shines so bright we don't needlamps. It creates the best moon shadows I have ever seen! No wonder there has been scenes from Star Wars filmed right here!

Rock climbing The Feathers, Frenchman Coulee, WA

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When we came rock climbing here last year on our way to Portland, OR, we knew we would be back for more at some point. We can camp in the bus right by the rock climbing walls! No approach walk (this also means we can climb until it is almost dark!). The kids can go to the rig to eat, play, pee... It's heaven! And the beauty of this place is stunning. It is pretty packed on the weekend. Young cool hipsters come from Portland and Seattle to take selfies of themselves up on the wall (yes, we have seen that!) dressed up like they just jumped out of a magazine... We made the average age go up quite a bit! But they were all super nice and excited to see kids rock climbing. The Red Bus intrigued many and our lifestyle made a few commiserate over the fact that they had to drive back to the city for a week of work... Hey, we have solar power and good Internet connexion (even here in the middle of the desert!), we are good for a week!

There are two main rock climbing areas: Frenchman Coulee (The Feathers and Middle East Wall) and the Echo Basin (Sunshine Wall, M 'n M Wall, Powerhouse Wall and more.). The Feathers are short basalt columns; there is a North Side and a South Side. The difference in temperature when the sun is out is incredible!. On the North side, people were belaying with down coats and hats, while on the South side, we were belaying in tank tops and sweating! The routes are longer on the Sunshine Wall. There are now over 600 routes at the area, ranging from 5.2 to 5.13 (mostly sport, some trad, lots of begginners route, but lots of choss too). You need to get a Discover Pass for $30 to be allowed to park and camp here. This pass gives you access to all the rec sites in Washington State for the year. Here's a pretty decent topo we found online. We love this place! And we love our life!

Lodgepole Lake Rec Area

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Beautiful early Sunday morning light on the lake.

Perfecting his one-handed wood chopping skills

I felt just like Java when we set foot in this beautiful place! Freedom!!

I felt just like Java when we set foot in this beautiful place! Freedom!!

As we pulled into Lodgepole Lake Recreation Site and realized we scored again by finding an amazing free place to camp by a beautiful lake (water is a big asset when dry camping) in a gorgeous location with crazy good cell signal, we jumped off the bus and went straight for the lake, smiling and excited! Freedom!! Nature!! Peace!

A few days ago, as I sat in the little patch of overgrown grass beside the Walmart parking lot, between old crumpled Tim Horton’s paper cups and BigMac wrappers, Java rolled on his back, four paws in the air, blissful. I looked at him and said: I get it, buddy… I miss nature too…

Yesterday, I watched him run all over the place in the empty campground and pounce on swaying grass, and I felt just like him inside! I belong here. I *need* nature to be well. I need a bonfire under the stars and a completely silent dark night to feel rested. And I need to feel rested to feel like myself. So, cheers to another beautiful place to spend the week!

*We have discovered the BC Rec Sites (official Website) as great camping options. Some are free or much cheaper than provincial parks (PP) ($12). The sites have fire pits, picnic tables and are often much less busy than PP. The stay limit is 14 days in a month.

Last days at Boer Mountain

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Fall is well on its way here. During the time we stayed at the campground, we really saw nature going from summer to fall. The colors are amazing now!

This place is one of the most amazing camping spots we have ever been to. Boer Mountain has left us many unforgettable memories... and a few scars.  Seriously, what are the chances to find world class bike trails out your door, a beautiful lake to paddle on, a free peaceful campground (and free firewood!) five minutes from a friendly town with everything you need? 
Boer Mountain, we will be back.

Bike, eat, sleep... rinse and repeat (and a bit of kayaking too)!

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The kids spent many hours carving spoons around the fire. They have to burn the center to make it hollow.

The biking crew!

Muddy trails!

The Northern Aqua Ninja, a very rare specie!

With 10 bikes to take care of and all the riding that happens around here, there is almost always someone working on a bike...

The girls taught our new friend Lee and his girlfriend how to cook bannock over the fire

Oh the beautiful sky! We have been hoping to see Northern Lights, but no luck so far!

Living so close to nature, I cannot help but notice every little change in the environment around me. How the light changes throughout the day depending on the weather. How the beaver spends his day going back and forth across the lake, collecting timber for his hut. How the mama duck swims around the lilypad patch with her 6 ducklings... Even the unicyclist with his bear bells (yes, on a mountain bike unicycle... He goes down When Pigs Fly and Charlotte's Web on it!!) that rides by our campsite every night at the same time, like a swiss watch. 

There is something quite comforting in that sameness, that predictability.

When Jennifer and I went for a kayak outing at sunset, we stopped paddling for a moment once we reached the other side of the lake and listened in silence. The sun warmed our faces and we smiled at each others. Both of us strangers in that self-contained world. 

When Pigs Fly

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How many bikes and persons can you fit in a Westy? For this ride, 8 bikes and 10 persons!

Hail!!!!

The trail network at Boer Mountain is pretty amazing! One of the most popular ride is called When Pigs Fly. And yes, that's the trail on which JF broke his arm (only because he was going too fast into a jump). You can see it here on YouTube. It's a very flowy trail with big berms and lots of jumps. The first time I did it, it really kicked my butt and I walked most of the berms. My sweet friend Jennifer waited for me, gave me tips and encouraged me to keep trying.

There is another short fun black diamond trail that the kids love called Smells like Bacon (seriously! Bike trails and climbing routes have the best names!). All the trails have been named with a pig theme in mind (Slaughter House, Charlotte's Web, Soooeet, Curly Tail, etc.). 

Every Wednesday, local youth from the bike club come and do some trail work in exchange for a shuttle up at the end of the night! The club is very active and organize an awesome bike fest (The Big Pig) around mid-August every year.

And someone sure had fun finding names for the age categories:

1. Cutlet - 12 and under

2. Junior Tender - 13-15

3. Senior Tender - 16-18

4. Lean - 19-34

5.Gristle - 35-49

6.Freezer Burn -50+

The Reunion

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Supervising our dear friend while he fixes the coolant hoses

Sewing, of course!

Java now has two families... and two homes!

The kids spent many hours building forts

Even doing the dishes is fun with your best friend!

Remember when we said goodbye to our beloved traveling friends last April in Moab? Well, we were supposed to meet in Southern BC, but with all the events from last week, this amazing family came all the way up to be with us and give us a hand! How awesome is that?
We are so happy to be back together and it feels like we never were apart. Having these wonderful kids in my bus feels so natural... There are so many adventures ahead of us! I am excited beyond words!

Oh the people you meet!

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Java's not too sure about JF's new hairdo....

Love this girl and her awsome attitude. Her tattoo: Be Yourself Fearlessly. She is the embodiement of it!

Even cooler, the bottom part is the mountain range behind Canmore!

We did a few shuttles up and rode together most of the day

Happy hour in the parking lot!

This guy's van is nothing short of amazing! He did the whole conversion himself. Under the bed, he has sliding trays for his bikes (notice the wet suit hanging inside the door, surfboard and paddle board on top? Fully equiped!

And, he is a bike mechanic, so he took a look at my bike derailler. His motto: lubrication is a wonderful thing!!

We met Madeleine the night before. She had just driven 14 hours down the Cassiar (she was in Carcross, in the Yukon, biking, two days earlier!). We hit it off right away and told her to come by for coffee and a shuttle up the mountain the next morning. She currently lives off her little car. She ice climbs, paraglides, heliskis and rides hard! She is a fiery, spunky girl that sucks the marrow out of life. She radiates joy and fun! I hope my girls become their own version of Madeleine one day!

When we came back from our ride, a man she had met in Carcross a few days ago was there with his awesome Sprinter van. It was an empty shell that he customized. It is GORGEOUS (think modern, lime green bamboo laminate, dark grey and chocolate brown accents with stainless steel... and lots of gear!), with great music playing at all times of day. He is 53 and has been living off his van for 2 years already. He spent the summer hiking, biking and paddling in Alaska (and fly fishing from his paddle board!). So inspiring! I hope more people would have that kind of guts!

Then, the next day, we met Mike, a young Austrian guy, who has been traveling for 6 months on his super heavy 7 inch suspension freeride bike (the antithesis of a cyclo-tourism bike...) pulling a trailer, covering usually over 100 km a day (and sometimes 160 km!). He had already climbed up the mountain (that we usually shuttle!) twice that day and ridden back down. The guy is a machine! He's having the time of his life!

What do these people have in common? They feel so alive and happy! They traded the traditional life and the security that comes with it for freedom and adventures. They are high on life!

 

A perfect evening under the full moon

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We have had a pretty intense week, but it's also been a pretty amazing one! I have felt closer to my girls than I had in a long time and this alone, felt pretty wonderful. On Friday, I was litterally bursting with gratefulness for the life I live. After a rainy morning, the sun surprised us and came out in full force. Mara, Mathilde and I went for one of our favorite ride (Aisha has pain in one knee and she should only ride the mostly flat trail around the lake for a few days... which we call the Java trail since it's his daily ride...). I feel more confident by the day even if I have more bruises than I can count. JF calls me his little dalmatian...!  

When we came back, I made one of my famous frappé in the Vitamix to curb the effort migraine I felt coming (Three Sisters Kicking Horse coffee frozen in ice cubes - espresso shots from our machine - with half and half and a little bit of maple syrup!) and went back for a lake side ride with Aisha and Java. We stopped on our favorite campsite on the other side of the lake (accessible only by feet or bike) on a peninsula and watch the sun come down on the lake together. When we came back, I made delicious lemon garlic thyme cream pasta and opened a cold bottle of local Riesling. We ate in the setting sun.

The girls and I then grabbed the lambskins and our sleeping bags and went to the dock to watch the moon rise. When the sun came down, bats came flying around us on the lake. A beaver swam nearby. Suddenly, we saw it: the beautiful bright moon coming up between the trees. Then, Mathilde spotted the first star. Soon enough, we could see Orion and Cassiopea (my favorite constellation!) and even a few shooting stars. It was very sweet to hear Aisha say: I don't know what to wish for... I really have all that I could want! And Mathilde say: I wish I could have my very own moon that would follow me around all the time... That girl! One day, she will make a man work hard...! 

We layed down a long time in the dark silence of the night. An owl hooted in the distance... I said I wouldn't leave until I heard the loon... At around 10, we heard it. I looked at my daughters' faces, illuminated by the moonlight, smiled a fully contented smile and took a deep breath to remember this moment forever. Now, we could go to bed.

Day 3: Rolling with the punches

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Who's taking this whining little guy out at night now?!  Three times last night!!!! Arrghhh!

Tacos and a good Grasshopper beer make everything a bit better...

There they go again...

Warming up the shivering puppy...

Westy mechanic 101. Since papa can't do it with one arm, the girls are learning!

When we woke up, the (usually great) Internet connexion was down... We laughed it off with a triple shot latte (at least there was sun to provide some electricity to run the coffee machine!). Let me recap the last week for you: first my computer stopped working a few days before we left the Yukon when JF installed Windows 10 (he spent A LOT of time trying to fix it, online, on the phone, in store, without any luck, so we only have one computer between the two of us, which is a problem, because we often have to work at the same time...). Then, in the middle of the Cassiar Highway (in the middle of nowhere, where there was no cell connexion for a few hundreds of miles), a part of the tow system broke, leaving us to drive the two buses separately. When we climbed the hill leading to Kager Lake on Boer Mountain, JF smelled coolant and discovered a hose had just popped... After a few tests, he found out that there was no moving the bus from its location until that was fixed. 

Then, he broke his arm and on that same night, we thought the Westy's engine was fried. So we were stuck 5 km up on a dirt road, with no running vehicles (the area where we are parked looks like a garage yard right now with the front of the bus open and parts everywhere...), we are practically out of fresh water. The girls haven't showered in over a week. JF needs meds from the pharmacy in town for pain and to prevent infection in his many road rashes. We need to go get the part to fix the bus tomorrow 80 km away.

I might be an eternal optimist, but I still see our luck in the bad lucks. The part on the Westy is under warrantee, and we should receive it in a few weeks. We were VERY lucky JF saw the Westy moving to the side in his rearview miror, because we could have easily lost it in the ditch... Or we could have broken down completely and not be able to move from where it happened. We have met a local guy that works at the parts store in town while biking this weekend and he was able to help us. The Westy's engine seems fine. We needed to replace the coolant tank (that completely split in two) and the alternator belt. 

And most importantly, JF is alive, not disfigured, and his fracture should heal fast. We have a lake nearby to get some water (and clean ourselves if we are brave enough!) and we still have food for at least a few days. JF called the towing to bring the Westy to a local mecanic he rode with on Sunday. We have amazing trails right off our door and the girls and I will take advantage of that. Oh! But life doesn't give us much rest! The gilrs and I surprised a bear that was eating thimbleberries. Poor Aisha was in front and got very scared... We talked to him, but we could still hear him in the bushes, so we turned around... I sure am glad it happened when we were only 10 minutes from the bus! A half an hour earlier, I had asked Aisha to stop singing loudly, because she was driving me batty... I told her to just make noise every 2-3 minutes... The problem is, in 2-3 minutes on a bike, you cover a lot of ground... On our after dinner ride, I told them they could sing non-stop the whole ride... Trust me, the bears did not stand a chance!!

Boer Mountain, DAY 2: The shit hits the fan...

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A dock... water... Déjà vu... RUN for your life!!!

I love Monday mornings at campgrounds. The place is empty after a buzzing weekend. Here, at Boer Mountain, the campsites are right by Kager Lake, so we went to sit on the dock in the morning sun and watched our new friends fish as we chatted. It was a gorgeous day and we were already making plans for the trails we wanted to ride. Since the people we had met were leaving in the afternoon, the girls and JF arranged for one last shuttle up the mountain with them.

I had done the shuttle the day before and knew that by the time I drove back down, the riders were usually back down too. But their pickup had been down here for a while and there was still no sign of them. I watched the clock, trying to convince myself that they probably had decided to try a different trail. I tried to quiet down the voice that was telling me that something was wrong. 

I was working on a translation contract when I heard Mathilde starting to give a guy the spiel about the Westy and the bus (the girls are getting pretty good at answering questions on our rig!) and came out to help her with some details. That's when I saw JF approach, all bloodied face and scratched, his woolen shirts ripped and with a weird look in his eyes. When he peeled off his glasses and I saw the gush on his nose, my legs almost went from under me (I would have been a very bad nurse...). Turns out he had caught a jump too fast and went flying and crashed face first on When Pigs Fly (just thought it was funny... I can now call him my little flying piglet...!). A minute after the crash, a friend found him sitting by his bike, dizzy. He helped him change his tube, assessed the damage and they slowly rode back down. We were on concussion watch for a while. I tried to convince him to have his painful shoulder checked at the hospital, but he said it felt OK (I knew he was still on adrenaline... and I also know that JF is always OK...). I sure am glad he had his full face helmet and protections when it happened (he doesn't usually wear them...). 

By 6 pm, he was looking worst and we decided to go to the ER. Sure enough, he had broken his humerus! The doctor said the tendon pulled so hard on the bone that it ripped the bone! The good news is that in a situation like that, one of two things happen: either the rotator cuff tears or the bone breaks. And a break is a much better option. Since they can't put a cast on a shoulder, he has to wear a stabiliser sling (absolutely no movement for 2 and a half weeks). Then, if he is painfree, he can slowly get moving. If not,  he will need to have an ultrasound done to assess the damage (if any) to the ligaments and tendons. 

After the verdict fell, we all piled back into the Westy and drove back up to the bus. When I turned off the engine, we heard a weird noise coming from the back. We jumped off and saw it: the white smoke! "Let's hope it's not the head gasket!",  we both exclaimed at the same time, incredulous... Really?! How many bad lucks can you have in a week??

JF turned around, leaving the Westy behind in the dark, and said: "I need a beer!"

Mountain biking at Boer Mountain, in Burns Lake, British Columbia, DAY 1

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Inviting...

Under the proud paternal look...

That's a skinny skinny!!

Boer Mountain Bike Park is the first of its kind as the park is the only mountain bike park to be build on Crown land in Canada. There are miles of classic singletrack offering riders a sequence of cross-country, freeride and downhill trails, as well as a skills park, jump park and Rider Cross track. This park was also designed by Whislter park designers and the best part is it is free to use. There are about 15 campsites with picnic tables and firepit, as well as a huge parking area for bigger rig (all for free, 14 days max for camping).

We were lucky enough to meet some of the locals that were part of the project since the beginning and helped designed the trails (thanks to our friendly puppy!). We chatted for a few hours and JF and the girls went riding with them the next day. Since the Carcross episod, I felt very unsure about my biking skills. My confidence was at its lowest low and I declined a few more challenging downhill rides with these skilled bikers.

After reading the trail descriptions on the map, I asked JF and the girls if they'd come try some cross-country trails with me. I tried to focus on the skills the girls had me practice on the pump track in the morning. My thighs burned from the effort and the constant standing up. The sharp turns were challenging and I walked the wooden boardwalks behind the girls, feeling like a big wuss... I took a deep breath and tried to channel a friend (who is so at peace with where she is at in terms of skills, even when riding with experienced people) who often says when she walks parts of the trail: I don't make one with the bike yet! And I smiled, clearly not feeling at one with the bike... At other moments, I heard another friend whispering into my ear: Trust the bike! And I did... for a few hundred meters... until, a jump threw me off balance.

Tears welled up in my eyes. I heard my friend who just last week told me: You are brave. And I felt it. I was being brave. I was back on the horse!

As I looked at JF watching the girls with pride in his eyes, I decided turn that same gaze towards myself. I was proud of myself. Proud to be there, riding berms and managing sharper turns than before, my heart pounding, feeling the flow of the trail. And my confidence increased. Thanks for riding with me today, friends!

But that, my friends, was only Day 1... Things got a little more... action packed on Day 2... Stay tuned! Spoiler alert: don't look on Facebook!

Under the rain in Meziadin Lake Provincial Park

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The rain on my face, hiding the tears as I stand on that black pebble beach, hair dripping. I wash my empty coffee mug in the clear freezing cold water. I feel myself melting into the landscape. The mist, the cloud covered mountains and the weather matching my mood. I stand there a long time, taking in the magic of this place I love so much.

I distractedly caress a smooth rock between my fingers, lost in toughts. The puppy's playfulness contrasting with my heaviness. He barks at a rock, paws at the water, and his antics make me smile.

As I scan the horizon for grizzlies, I notice that the clouds are slowly lifting, reavealing even more beauty. I exhale. The clouds always lift.

 

Pine Lake

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Yukon swimming apparel: swimsuit and hat

As we leave Whitehorse, the grey sky opens up and the sun enters the bus and warms me up. Gophers dart everywhere on the road; one makes a nearly suicidal u-turn just in front of us. Then, a young brown bear crosses nonchalantly, swaying his hips like a sassy teenager. After a little more than an hour of driving on the Alaska highway the mountains of Haines Junction appear in front of us.

The campground is almost full, but a guy from Bend, OR, that traveled on his motorbike all the way to Prudoe Bay, shares his site with us since he’ll be back on the road early the next morning. Friends are waiting for us and we all settle around the fire, with port and dark chocolate as the sun slowly goes down over the mountains by Pine Lake.

On the days to come, there are Happy Hours around the fire (with Ludo's killer Gin and Tonic!), freshy caught pike cooked in aluminum foil and eaten with our fingers, lots of laughter and great talks, canoe outings at 9:30 pm and ferral kids with charcoal face paint having a blast (as long as there's a dog with them!) that we try to put to bed before 11 pm... This is why the Yukon just does not compare to anything else...

Okanagan Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia

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Crampy feet from the freezing cold water! They still played for a good hour with that log together! It was a beautiful sight to see!

My mom flew in from Quebec to spend 2 weeks with us before we drive north to the Yukon for the summer. The Okanagan Valley is the perfect place to camp at this time of year. We have enjoyed the beautiful Okanagan Lake and did a beautiful short hike at Hardy Falls. JF found an awesome used Santa Cruz (Juliana) mountain bike for Aïsha (hers was getting small so it went to Mathilde) and she was zooming around the campground on it at every hour of the day (when she was not reading her new books that Mamie brought her or perched high up on a tree). It was the perfect setting to celebrate Mother's Day together. We had long conversations in the morning sun and around the bonfire at night. I am so fortunate to have such a fun, easy-going open-minded mom!