Rock climbing at Cochise Stronghold, AZ

Can you spot Mathilde on the image on the right? These routes are long (and so fun!).

Wild kids.

The girls made a swing.

Playing Lego at sunset.

Guitar and drums, great evenings by the fire.

JF, on top of Naiche's nest. Naiche was Cochise's son (an Apache Chef, see story below) and it is in this nook that Naiche played while his dad held councils.

The kids scrambled on rocks while we set the routes. We were pretty much alone the whole time!

We search out the most perfect pieces of rock. It’s so amazing that these formations are so perfect for climbing on. It’s almost as if they were created for climbing. You’re taking these random rock formations and you’re bringing to it this interaction. It transforms it from being this random rock into almost this piece of art. It’s almost like a sculpture or something. Just by finding the handholds, finding that line up the rock. Every climb is different, has its own unique set of movements and body positions. Climbing and my appreciation for nature are totally intertwined. -Chris Sharma

You might remember that we climbed here last February for Jen's birthday. It was an epic weekend and we wanted to explore the area a little more. Our friends Les 4 Farfelus joined us for a few days and we climbed together, played music by the fire and simply enjoyed this incredibly wild place. Cochise Stronghold is located at an elevation of 5000 feet. Needless to say, we had some very cold nights and mornings (below freezing!).

The Cochise Stronghold is part of the Coronado National Forest in the beautiful Dragoon Mountains and was once the refuge of the great Chiricahua Apache Chief, Cochise.  This rugged area was home for 250 warriors and up to a total of 1000 in the  tribe for up to 15 years. Upon his death, Cochise was secretly buried somewhere in or near his impregnable fortress.  The exact location has never been revealed or determined.

Carlsbad Caverns, New Mexico

We found a great BLM campsite (free) 20 minutes from the Caverns (more infos and GPS coordinates here).

This place is just out of this world magical... we had visited a good chunk of it 3 years ago, but hadn't done the back part. The entrance is free with a National Parks pass. As amazing as it is to enter the caverns through the natural entrance (walk down into the caverns), it is quite the hike to do the whole thing (adults can do it, but it's long for younger children). Here's our advice: arrive early and take the elevator down to the big room and walk all the back part of the caverns. You will have the place pretty much to yourself since most people are entering through the natural entrance at that time of day. Then, either walk out through the natural entrance or take the elevator back up. Walking into the caverns is a unique experience that is most enjoyed when you are not stuck in a crowd. 

Sleeping by the Gulf of Mexico on Rutherford Beach, near Creole, LA

Stout meets a crab...

The first night, there was a crazy thunderstorm with a lightning show that lasted for hours... it felt like a giant stroboscope in the bus.

The sun came back the next day. And we had the perfect set up, right on the beach.

Stout was so happy to be allowed to run free on the beach. It was puppy heaven...

A bonfire on the beach. It doesn't get any better.

Stout has a light that attaches to his collar to see where he is at night. So fun and practical! And it makes for cool pictures too!

When we found out about that beach through another traveling family, I wanted to check it out. It's not often that you come across boondocking sites right on the beach! And it didn't disappoint!

This part of Louisiana has been severely affected by the passage of Katrina in 2005 and everywhere you look, you see concrete pads where houses used to stand, rusty metal structures, old restaurant signs... it's a sad sight... Many people could not afford to rebuild their houses and they now live in fifth wheels on these concrete pads.

A local told us that there were 35 to 40 houses along Rutherford Beach before Hurricane Rita... and now, only a few houses remain... It was the perfect place to watch the IMAX documentary Hurricane on the Bayou.

The drive to get down to the beach is beautiful though, as you cross bayous and a wildlife preserve. There were lots of different birds and I was jumping up and down when we saw some Roseate Spoonbill (Spatule rosée)! So cool! The whole time we were driving through the bayous, the lyrics of Stephen Faulkner's song Cajuns de l'an 2000 that my dad used to play in the Westfalia when I was a kid kept popping through my mind. And to top it off, a local we met on the beach kept using the expression Son of a Gun! Oh and JF is cooking a typical Creole Jambalaya tonight with authentic bayou spices!

Perdido Key and Big Lagoon State Park, Florida

Our morning commute...

“The loneliness you get by the sea is personal and alive. It doesn't subdue you and make you feel abject. It's stimulating loneliness.” 
-Anne Morrow Lindbergh

“If you want to build a ship, don't drum up people to collect wood and don't assign them tasks and work, but rather teach them to long for the endless immensity of the sea.”
-Antoine de Saint-Exupery

When we found out our Wisconsin friends were heading to the Florida Panhandle for Thanksgiving week, we decided to join them. It was a *slight* detour from our original itinerary (which was to head down diagonally from Wisconsin to AZ), but spending more time with them on those awesome beaches was worth it! White sugar beaches and turquoise water? Hell yeah!

This area of Florida is one of its best kept secrets. The beaches are wild and empty, it's not too hot or too damp for us Northerners and the state parks campgrounds are more affordable. What's not to like about it! We liked Big Lagoon SP, but we would have prefered a campsite closer to the open sea, like Fort Pickens SP (where you need to reserve quite a while in advance). We also loved St. Joseph Peninsula SP, but there is no cell signal there. The big downside is that dogs are not allowed on the beaches pretty much everywhere. We either had to drive 45 min to Pensacola Dog Beach (a really nice beach) or drive 15 min to a dog park on the lagoon side of Perdido Key. 

If you go to this area and do not need Internet signal and want to tent camp, go camp to Cayo Costa State Park, it's on an island only accessible by boat (when the address is 4 Nautical Miles West of Pine Island, you know it's gonna be quiet!).
 

And South we go...

Our last few weeks in the Yukon were a series of awesome dinners and shared moments with friends.

These friendships that survive the distance mean so much to all of us.

A last evening at our dear friend Josée's.

Coloring at night in the bus.

Last sunset on the Alaska Highway.

Following a Westy from Argentina.

We stopped at Boya Lake on the Stewart-Cassiar Highway for a little hike.

And pick berries, of course!

It was the first time our California friends saw a beaver dam! 

We stopped for 4 days in Burns Lake to ride at Boer Mountain. It rained the whole time, so that's pretty much the only biking picture I took... You might remember our epic adventures here last year! Day 1 is here, then Day 2 (the shit hits the fan), Day 3, Day 4 and there are more posts on that beautiful place (just click Newer at the bottom of the posts)!

Medicine making with arnica, yarrow, fireweed and rosehips and dutch oven apple crips with freshly picked thimbleberries and blueberries.

Prosciutto and sage leaves wrapped chicken and potatoes over the fire.

Lots and lots of dirty laundry. We rode in the mud for 3 days!

Diedra found out that the thrift store was doing a 5$/bag of clothes week. The kids were creating a play, so it was perfect! They are so creative!

The sun came out for 30 minutes and we could litterally see the earth exhale.

Kager Lake, right by the campsites at Boer Mountain. There are tent campsites all around the lake accessible through a fun bike trail. During our time there, they were doing controlled burns all around the lake and it was pretty surreal to come across these big campfires every 200 meters as we picked berries in the rain! They kept us warm!

Transitions. Every parenting book I read when the girls were little had a chapter on that. Every parent knows all too well the meltdowns that followed the announcement that we had to move on to something different, be it jumping in the car to go visit grandma or wash hands before dinner... In the Waldorf world, we had little transition songs for each of these moments, imaginative stories of foxes chasing little mice in the bedroom for storytime... It’s not easy to leave behind something that felt good and comfortable, something you were engrossed in and could keep on doing. That’s how it felt to leave the Yukon. We weren’t sad per se, but we could have stayed a little longer (in a warm house, not in the bus!). Most places we leave feel like that after a while, Tucson, Moab, Virgin... Our life is a series of transitions, of hellos and goodbyes and see-you-laters. An interesting choice for a girl that had lots of separation anxiety as a child... But, hey, I’ve always been the kind to grab the bull by the horns!

Or rather, I’ve always had that pull to explore, to get out of my comfort zone. Leaving for a year in Italy at 17, attempting to hike the GR20 in Corsica at 21, a little underprepared... Hitting the road in an old bus we had just bought! It’s not an adventure if there’s not a bit (or a lot!) of unknown in it, right?

A weekend of rock climbing and camping with friends

Climbing blindfolded! A great challenge.

Vincent made it to the top blindfolded!

The smile on their faces was such an incredible reward!

They built an awesome two-room shelter together

Making willow bark rope.

The fireweed have already gone to seed! Fall is almost here.

A table full of awesome kids.

One of the perks of being a climbing instructor this summer is that I have access to the climbing material we use for the groups. On Saturday, we got together with five other families for a fun day of rock climbing. The kids had a blast and the parents had a good time too! Then, a bunch of us went camping at Marsh Lake together. There was good lemon-lavender Radler from the Yukon Brewery, wild Agaricus mushrooms were sauteed in butter and pepper, meals were assembled from what we could find in our campers. There even was a skinny dip (one kid was heard saying: skinny dipping with your friends sure makes you closer!). The simplicity of spending time with good friends. The magic of it all. It sure fills my heart.

The first 7 pictures were taken by my friend Jason and the following rock climbing pictures were taken by my friend Josée (I was busy belaying!). Thanks guys for immortalizing this fun day!

Camping and playing in Pine Lake, Haines Junction, Yukon

We tried a different technique than the cone for Java (he got fixed last week) to keep him from licking himself... He wasn't impressed...

Cooking bannock over the fire.

Harvesting spruce tips to make a medicinal syrup.

Collecting spruce pitch to make salve.

Kayaking on Pine Lake

We just love Pine Lake campground! It's far enough from town (90 min North of Whitehorse) for us to feel off the city hook and close enough to so many great hikes that we never get bored. There is a nice beach for warm days (and a clay pit!) and the lake is simply amazing! Paddling on a turquoise lake while being surrounded by the Kluane Mountain Range is high on my list of "how close to perfection can you get?".

Pine Lake is a territorial campground that is located only 10 min from Haines Junction and Kluane National Park. It is actually a nicer (and cheaper) campground than Kathleen Lake's (in Kluane National Park). If you are in the area, don't miss the amazing Visitor Center in Haines Junction.

The Great Northern Migration Saga

Before leaving Moab on Thursday, we went for a last ride with our friends at Moab Brands. None of us felt ready to leave this paradise but our time in the States was up.

On Friday night, we camped at Clark Canyon Reservoir, near Dillon, Montana. It's an awesome free camping spot. When we left, we stopped at our favorite Patagonia Outlet in Dillon and found some really good deals.

Only a few hours later, the bus started to behave weirdly and finally died on the side of the road. Lucky for us, our friends were just ahead of us and Karl and JF spent lots of time troubleshooting together to try to find the problem, while Jen fed the kids in her bus (and made dinner for all of us later!). We finally had to call our roadside assistance service (CoachNet, really happy with the service) and they towed us to a safe location (the Walmart in Butte, MT) since the garage was closed for the day.

On Sunday morning, the phone rang at 6 am. They were coming to pick us up to bring us to the garage. 

They brought the bus in at noon on Sunday and we were out by 5 pm! We were so happy!! We truly had no idea how long it would take them to fix the problem. Historically speaking, when the bus got in a garage for a problem, it got out 10 days later... So we were brainstorming possible sleeping arrangement. The weather was rainy and cold and as much as we love camping in the Westy, it didn't sound very appealing. However, we were right by the Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park and would have probably stayed  there for a few nights. However, we found out later that the caverns are not open before May 1st, so we'll have to be back! 

JF making burgers in a truck stop

Then as we neared the border (litteraly an hour and 15 minutes away, one of the bus' rear tires blew, ripped the muffler's exhaust that in turn sliced open one of the Westy's front tire... Yeah, unbelievable, I know.

We even had the police show up this time since we were not in a safe place.  

Aïsha decided to sit outside and draw while we waited for the mobile repair truck to reach us.

And she picked flowers for our dinner table. Kids are so good at sourcing beauty!

The mobile repair truck showed up at around 9 pm and changed the tire in less than 45 min. Since it was already pretty late, we found a Walmart in Colville to spend the night. And finally, finally, we crossed the border on Wednesday, 3 days later than planned.

We are now in the Kootenays, visiting dear friends.

We made it to BC, but we're not in Whitehorse yet! Wish us luck, we might need it... 
 

Where to ride in Moab and more practical infos

Klonzo North - Cross Canyon trail

Moab Brands (Bar M) 

Klonzo South - Carousel

Klonzo South - half-way throuh Roller Coaster, a really fun trail.

Jennifer made sure the girls got to celebrate their birthday again as soon as we got back together!

When you tell people that you are going to Moab to ride, almost all of them will talk to you about The Whole Enchilada (28 miles with 7000 feet of downhill, it is an epic whole day adventure for strong, skilled riders only - with a shuttle - and the top part is only open in the summer, the last part is the famous Porcupine Rim that can also be ridden separately). Or they talk about Slickrock (10.6 miles of pure slickrock goodness, black, pretty steep and very physical). Of course, these trails are epic in their own ways, but there is so much more in Moab! First, install the Trailforks app on your phone (MTB project is missing a part of the Klonzo trail system), it will come in very handy to navigate your way through all the trail systems around town. Then, come find a spot on Willow Spring Road to camp (14 day BLM, free) and enjoy the view! There are tons of pull-outs (some close to the roads, others further away (we suggest you find a far away one since there is quite a bit of trafic on that dirt road (especially on Fri-Sat-Sun) and it can get pretty dusty (and loud since half the crowd is here to do some four-wheeling on some other trails). 

After 3 times visiting Moab for a few weeks, here's what we can tell you about our favorite trails (by trail systems):

Klonzo (sometimes included in the Sovereign network) : This is a newish trail system with some great trails.
Klonzo North: Start with Dunestone (super fun combo of slickrock and dirt) and up Secret Passage, Vertigo (some black sections), Wahoo and down Borderline (all blue except for parts of Vertigo. We heard Gravitron is a fun black, but didn't get to do it. 

Klonzo South: Lots of easy fun ones for beginners (Hot Dog + Midway and the whole Carousel area for some slickrock introduction), as well as some good blue ones (Roller Coaster, The Edge, Zoltar) and a great black one (Houdini) that is mostly slickrock with not much elevation.

Horsethief: This is a new sector (also sometimes included or confused with Navajo Rocks). Combine the Mustang Loop (blue) with Wildcat (blue), Hildalgo (blue) and Whirlwind (optional) for a super fun ride. Just know that you go down for a while first and you have to climb back up... Make sure to do Getaway (blue) and Bull Run (black and blue sections, some sections near cliff edges) which is the beginning of Mag 7, a single-track composed of 7 trails that link the upper and lower ends of Gemini Bridges Road and that can be ridden as a point-to-point with a shuttle.

Navajo Rocks: Only fun trails! Do the big blue loop or only half of it (Ramblin and Rocky Tops) and come back for the other half (Big Mesa/Big Lonely)!

Moab Brands (aka Bar M): Warm  up on EZ and Lazy (super fun greens) and go do North 40 (blue), it's our favorite trail there. Circle-O is supposedly a fun black that we didn't have time to ride. Deadman's Ridge is a much more technical (rocky and bumpy) black that you can skip...

Klondike Bluffs: Don't miss Dino Flow (blue) and Alaska (if you are up for a climb, the view is totally worth it). For Dino Flow, you might want to consider doing a shuttle (leave a car at the Klondike South parking lot and start at the Dino Tracks parking lot). If you're up for a climb and do not want to do a shuttle, you can park at the Dino Tracks parking lot (don't park at the first parking lot by the highway, you'll have to ride a boring 5 miles on a dirt road to reach the trailhead), go up Homer and Alaska (blue) and down Mega steps (black). You'll even find dinosaur tracks along the way! You can then take Dino flow back to the parking lot. If you want to do Dino Flow all the way without a shuttle, park at the Dino Tracks parking lot, ride Dino Flow all the way down and come back up Jurassic, Jasper East and Midline (all green) for an easy uptrack, or take Baby Steps (blue) if you still have some juice left.

This comment about this sector made me giggle: The Klondike Bluffs Trail is perfect for your teenage son who fancies himself a racer, if you are worried he might kill himself on the Moab Slickrock Trail, which is certainly possible (from here).
And a good reminder: On a sad note, the dinosaur tracks in the Klondike Bluffs area are being destroyed by people who, with no skill or education, are trying to make molds of the prints to take home. We have seen everything from plaster of paris to spray foam. Needless to say, if people do not know how to make molds safely (using a plastic wrap to protect the track), then they probably should be shot on site before they mess this area up for the true amateur paleontologists. Leaving plaster or plastic stuck to the inside of a track is only one small step away from trying to crack the tracks out of the sandstone. Please do not stand on or mar the tracks in any way.

Amasa Back: For the very strong/expert riders only, sounds like Captain Ahab is not to be missed!

For a fun challenge, try Pipe Dream (black trail) located in town and try to do it without setting a foot down!

The Bartlett Wash (aka The Bartlett Bowl) seems like a pretty unique slickrock feature! Check out "The Toilet Bowl" here.

Here's a great site that list all the trails in the area.

Moab is a pretty cute little town that is pretty busy during high season (April to October, but busier during Spring and Fall, summers are hot!). You'll never see so many awesome bikes in such a high concentration! There are lots of bike shops in Moab, but we recommend Chili Pepper and The Moab Cyclery

Just know that everything is a little more pricey in Moab. There are lots of rental bikes on sale at the end of the season (November), but most of the regular sizes are so beaten up you really want to get such bikes. Four years ago, I got a really good deal on a XS bike that barely got out during the season. So, unless you are an XS or an XL, I would pass on the rental bike sales. If you need to rent a bike while in Moab, do a weekly rental (around $300/$350), which is much cheaper than daily ($80/$90).

As for food, you best one spot shop is the City Market (where most people shop with muddy legs and bike protections on). We really like the little health food coop called Moonflower. They sell delicious local greens and produce at decent prices. The rest is quite pricey.

Milt's Stop and Eat is an institution in Moab and every night of the week (except Monday when it's closed), you can expect to wait a good 30 min to get your burger, fries and shake, sitting outside among other bleeding and dirty riders. We make a point of eating here at least once when in Moab, but we have to say that it seems to have lost some of its quality. Our friend Karl had to bring back his large fries because there truly was only a handful of fries in there. They apologized and gave him a new order for free. Our fries were quite pale and undercooked and the avocado melt... didn't contain any avocado. The burgers were good, but not as juicy as they used to. Our chocolate-vanilla malt was as good as usual though.

Four our girls' night out, we went to the Spoke and liked their food (gluten-free bun option for their great burgers), good drinks, homemade ice cream and one of the nicest ambiance in town.

The boys went to the Atomic Loung/Moab Burger and found the food really good (great fries, homemade bacon, delicious burgers), but the atmosphere kind of so-so.

Our friends hit the Moab Brewery and didn't think much of it. The food is average and the beer is well, Utah beer. So if you like 4% beer, go for it, otherwise, forget it.

Grab and go: Try the Quesadilla Mobila. You can't miss this yellow truck. A bit pricey (like everything else in Moab), but it hits the spot.

Coffee. Try the Eklecticafé, nice ambiance, good coffee, vegan and gluten-free options. For a grab and go delicious coffee (or beans $13/lb), hit Moab Coffee Roaster, by the post office and almost in front of the health food coop Moonflower.

As for camping, there's plenty of options. There are a few big and crowded RV park in town, but the largest and most common place to camp is up at Sand Flats Recreation Area, a 10-minute drive up above town. Sand Flats road is the home of the Slickrock trail, and Porcupine Rim trail. There are over 120 campsites up and down the dirt road that runs through the recreation area. Campsites have pit toilets but no water. There's a fee to use the recreation area, and you pay at an entrance gate as you drive into the area. The Internet cell connexion is not great there.

We much prefer boondocking for free on the BLM land on Willow Springs Road, 12 miles North of town. It's closer to most of the trail systems we like, the view is amazing (view of the La Sal Mountains and Arches National Park from our bedroom!), but it's a bit of a longer drive to town (20 min), but the connexion is better here. Still, you might need a booster to get good 4G.

For laundry, you can choose between the gringo laudromat (uber clean and more expensive), conveniently located beside the City Market and the Moab Cyclery, so you can shop while you laundry dries and the locals' laundromat (Moab Speedqueen Laundromat, no website, of course), located in the same strip mall as the Chili Pepper bike shop and another smaller and more expensive grocery store (Village Market). No wifi on the premises, but go sit in the grass outside in the La Quinta Hotel and get their signal. There are a few more that I didn't check (Wet Spot, close to Main and Center).

You can go fill your jugs of water with delicious spring water for free inside the Gearheads outdoor store (by the gringo laundromat and the City Market).

Recycling: Moab has probably the most recycling per square miles of any town. There is recycling for everything and a garbage container in the Information Center Parking Lot. There is also some recycling at the Moab Cyclery (no tin). Cardboard recycling between Gearheads and the laundromat. Arches National park has plastic and tin, but not glass.

Showers and pool. You can shower at the Moab Cyclery for $5 or at the Youth Hostel for $3 (Lazy Lizard), and at most campground for $4 to $6. We think that the best deal is the Aquatic Center ($20 per family) where you can enjoy the nice warm pool with a super fun waterslides and diving boards (and clean warm showers that do not run out of warm water!).

Receiving packages : UPS can be shipped to the UPS Customer Center at 1030 Bowling Alley Ln Ste 2, Moab, UT 84532. Pickup times vary so call ahead 435-259-5593
Shipping from any carrier at Canyonland Copy Center (375 S Main St Moab, UT 84532 435-259-8432) There is a fee of $5 per package

Dump and Fill: at the Maverick on the South side of town (free, no purchase required). You can also go to the Slickrock Campground (north side of town, so closer to the BLM) and dump and fill for $5.

Wifi: Library, Information Center, Moab Coffee Roaster, Love Muffin, Eddie McStiff

 

Salt Wash View Area, UT

We stopped there for the night on our way to Moab and pulled in in the dark. When I opened the curtains in the morning, my jaw dropped. We made coffee and went outside on the rocks to admire the incredible view. The Salt Wash View Area is located on the north side of Interstate Highway 70 about 52 miles west of Green River, Utah. This Roadside Look-Out has spectacular views of the San Rafael Swell and the stupendous rock formations. This View Area is on the lonely stretch of Interstate between Green River and Salina where there are no town or services along the highway for 110 miles (closest town is Emery). There are about 25 parking spots and there is good 4G Verizon. You can spend the night there (there are no no camping signs).

A family week in Utah

The girls were super excited to go pick up Grand-maman Claudette and Serge (JF's mom and her partner). We hadn't seen them in almost two years!

We went to eat lunch at LYFE Kitchen in Vegas. So good!

We spent the first night at Las Vegas Bay Campground and the second one at Sand Hollow State Park, near St. George. We were so happy to swim in this beautiful (and freezing cold) water, surrounded by red rock cliffs and black volcanic rocks.

We then spent two nights in Zion National Park. Here they did the Riverwalk that leads to the entrance of the Narrows (the Narrow hike that I did with Martin was closed because there was a risk of flash flood and the water level was too high).

On Tuesday, Mathide decided to spend the day with her grand-parents while JF, the twins and I hiked Angels Landing and a part of the West Rim Trail (this picture was taken on the West Rim Trail).

Our campsite in Zion.

We then drove from Zion to Bryce Canyon through the tunnel. The view is absolutely stunning!

The girls (and Java!) were pretty excited to see snow! Bryce Canyon is located at 8000 feet and there were still many patches of snow on the ground.

We hiked Queen's Garden Trail and Part of the Navajo loop with Claudette and Serge, for a total of 6,5 km with lots of ups and downs. They did great! We were impressed!

We had a huge campsite in Bryce and the girls built a zip line. They had so much fun!

We went to celebrate the girls' birthday (and our last night together) at the Bryce Canyon Lodge with a delicious meal.

We had a great time playing cards at night and chatting by the bonfire. It was great to see the girls reconnecting with their grand-parents. Six days went by pretty fast.

Las Vegas Bay Campground, NV

That's the back of our campsite, a long point along the canyon rim. Pretty cool. Awesome for sunrise and sunset watching. Note the chairs in the background. Note that there are no trees to tie the dog. Mara thought it was a good idea to tie him to the black chair. Five minutes later, our Dutch neighbor came frantically knocking on our window screaming: Da dag is ranning dawn da canyon with da chair!!! Ahem.

The Bluff trail, right from the campground.

Let me tell you a bit about my fixation with cups and glasses. We've been making do with thrift store plastic glasses since we are on the road and I really wanted to upgrade to some nice durable stainless steel ones. I used some of my birthday money (thanks Dad and Hélène!) to get 4 tall smoothie glasses, 4 small ones - perfect for a sip of water and wine - (love them!!) and two medium cocktail ones - great for red wine too. I've realized that if I can't live clutter free (an impossible task when you live in a bus with 4 other persons), I at least need to surround myself with some beautiful and useful objects. And looking at these glasses all neatly aligned in the cup holders along the kitchen wall make me so ridiculously happy! Oh, and my story wouldn't be complete without telling you about my favorite pottery mug (a gift from my friend Helen Ann, from her hometown in BC) for my morning triple shot latte and my bilke cup (from my friend Martine, from Rossland, BC, an avid biker) for my afternoon two shot latte (I know this sounds totally coffee snob, but you'd think otherwise if I'd make you one!). And there's also my Jennifer souvenir mug (absent for the picture) for the mornings when I need a 4 shots one or a warm tea at night!

Just walking to the end of our site...

Glory bowl in the making. One of our staple camp recipe.

One of the most dangerous beer there is. So refreshing and delicious! Not your Father's Ginger Ale from Small Town Brewery.

Making Negronis! Yum! It tastes like Italy!

Some bus and bike mechanics, lots of drawing and writing by the canyon, some drink mixing, lots of delicious food cooking outside (and playing cards by the lantern light). That's the right way to start a vacation!

We camped here last year and deemed it the best campground we stayed at (campsite #52). It was only $10/night last year, but it is now $20/night (no services, water and dump onsite, no shower building). It is still a gorgeous place, but with Lake Mead Rec Area BLM right there (free), it felt like a big splurge. Still, having a campsite with your own canyon rim is a pretty cool thing!

We also went back to Bootleg Canyon for a bike ride on my official birthday (I know, I know, bear with me...). I remembered that I hadn't liked that trail network much last year, but thought it might be a matter of experience. Well, it wasn't. I just don't care for loose rock and poorly maintained eroded trails (much worst than last year) with slippery narrow exposed sections... It really wasn't our best ride... And you know what it reminded me? That I have taken to celebrate my birthday over a long period instead of on that one day because historically, since we have had kids, it almost always ended being a really rough day with the girls and a birthday flop. So cheers to a birthday month! And yes, it's over now. You won't hear about it till next year!

Mountain biking on the Hurricane Rim Trail network, Utah

Jerud and Ching's Toaster reflects the light so beautifully.

Once again, we found an amazing free camping spot right by an incredible mountain bike trail network (also called the JEM trail since it is one of the main trails here). Biking from our bus is such a treat and we've been on our bikes almost everyday since!

We've been having fun trying to locate the trails that we see in the movie Where The Trail Ends  (some of it has been filmed right here in Virgin!), and have seen a few crazy lines out there on the mountains.

Rock climbing in Cochise Stronghold, AZ

When we first arrived at the foothill of the Stongholds, we felt like we just stepped in the African Serengeti. There were no more cacti, just tall dry grass, mesquite and sycamore trees and beautiful mountains. We expected to camp in a big open dusty parking lot with lots of other climbers, but instead, we stumbled upon a little camping spot, perfect for our two families, a mere 3 minute walk from the climbing walls. We popped the Westy's top, pitched the tents under the trees (we hadn't seen tall trees like that in months! We were exstatic!) and called it home for the weekend!

Java looked just like a dingo in this tall dry grass!

The beautiful 3 min approach walk to Sweet rock crag.

These 2 Mr. Muscles brought their girlfriends rock climbing for the first time on Valentine's Day. That cute Eastern European blond girl was pretty stressed out, but played along. The guys didn't even explained to her how to come down (that's the first thing you practice, especially outside) and the poor girl panicked 3/4 up the route (there routes are high!) and could not come down. Jen was climbing the route right beside her and walked her through it, in her usual comforting and compassionate way. When they say something make or break a relationship... well, this guy might not have had the Valentine's night he expected...!

Crag dogs are perfect for rests between climbs.

Climbing can be such a mental game. I'm so glad Jen can help Aïsha work through her fears when they come up. She truly is a second mom to my girls.

Hard-working hands.

This amazing woman turns 40 this week and this incredible weekend was how she wanted to celebrate. It could not have been more perfect. We had permasmiles in our faces at all times, constantly repeating to ourselves what a great life we have created for ourselves. 

There were lots of very dry cow dung around our camp and we used it as fire starter. The kids thought it was pretty funny, but they quickly understood why many people do this across the world. Cheap and efficient fuel!

Java thought that collecting cow dung was a pretty fun game.

Wipe shower! We gave the kids 2 wipes each and told them to bring them back only when they were black!

Mission accomplished!

I feel so fortunate to share this life on the road with this incredible woman (and her family that I love deeply). She is such an inspiration for all of us. It was her first time back on the rock since her fall in Joshua Tree, and she had to work hard to stay focused on her love for rock climbing. She is such an exemple of courage, strength and perseverance.

After one hard climb, she told Aïsha: When you do something that scares you, your're not afraid, you're brave. Who wouldn't want such an incredible woman in their life!

Happy 40th my dear, dear friend! I am a better person for growing at your side. To 40 more years of adventures, laughter and happiness!

More Joshua Tree rock climbing and bouldering goodness

After the Thanksgiving crowd came and went, Joshua Tree is back to its normal quiet self, especially during the week, away from the main tourist destinations of the park. We have the crags to ourselves and it feels glorious!

One afternoon, the kids didn't feel like joining us, so JF and I took off just the two of us while they stayed back at camp with their friends and Jennifer and Karl. We were exhilarated to be climbing just by ourselves. I could actually hear the silence of that place, the bling-bling of the quickdraws dangling from JF's harness as he climbed, the swoosh of the rope as I quickly fed him some rope to clip. We each climbed two great routes in less than 2 hours, something impossible when you have to belay 6 kids on every route! 

When we came back to the rig, the 6 kids had completely cleaned the bus and had prepared a delicious feast for the both of us! How awesome! We were speechless!

Since we are back at Joshua Tree North BLM, we are only 15 min from Indian Cove (one of the main rock climbing sector in Joshua Tree NP) and we go there every afternoon. Yesterday, after trying to set up a route and deciding against it after the first bolt (yes, we are very careful!), we worked on some bouldering problems. Boudering is hard work, but oh so rewarding!

Boondocking at Joshua Tree North BLM

The girls made a sun dial

Do you see how different the light is in the desert? The sun feels hot on our skin during the day and it feels glorious to lay on the hard cracked soil and soak up its warmth. The night air is crisp and smells of winter. The sky is wide open and the moon shines so bright we don't needlamps. It creates the best moon shadows I have ever seen! No wonder there has been scenes from Star Wars filmed right here!

Rock climbing The Feathers, Frenchman Coulee, WA

When we came rock climbing here last year on our way to Portland, OR, we knew we would be back for more at some point. We can camp in the bus right by the rock climbing walls! No approach walk (this also means we can climb until it is almost dark!). The kids can go to the rig to eat, play, pee... It's heaven! And the beauty of this place is stunning. It is pretty packed on the weekend. Young cool hipsters come from Portland and Seattle to take selfies of themselves up on the wall (yes, we have seen that!) dressed up like they just jumped out of a magazine... We made the average age go up quite a bit! But they were all super nice and excited to see kids rock climbing. The Red Bus intrigued many and our lifestyle made a few commiserate over the fact that they had to drive back to the city for a week of work... Hey, we have solar power and good Internet connexion (even here in the middle of the desert!), we are good for a week!

There are two main rock climbing areas: Frenchman Coulee (The Feathers and Middle East Wall) and the Echo Basin (Sunshine Wall, M 'n M Wall, Powerhouse Wall and more.). The Feathers are short basalt columns; there is a North Side and a South Side. The difference in temperature when the sun is out is incredible!. On the North side, people were belaying with down coats and hats, while on the South side, we were belaying in tank tops and sweating! The routes are longer on the Sunshine Wall. There are now over 600 routes at the area, ranging from 5.2 to 5.13 (mostly sport, some trad, lots of begginners route, but lots of choss too). You need to get a Discover Pass for $30 to be allowed to park and camp here. This pass gives you access to all the rec sites in Washington State for the year. Here's a pretty decent topo we found online. We love this place! And we love our life!

Lodgepole Lake Rec Area

Beautiful early Sunday morning light on the lake.

Perfecting his one-handed wood chopping skills

I felt just like Java when we set foot in this beautiful place! Freedom!!

I felt just like Java when we set foot in this beautiful place! Freedom!!

As we pulled into Lodgepole Lake Recreation Site and realized we scored again by finding an amazing free place to camp by a beautiful lake (water is a big asset when dry camping) in a gorgeous location with crazy good cell signal, we jumped off the bus and went straight for the lake, smiling and excited! Freedom!! Nature!! Peace!

A few days ago, as I sat in the little patch of overgrown grass beside the Walmart parking lot, between old crumpled Tim Horton’s paper cups and BigMac wrappers, Java rolled on his back, four paws in the air, blissful. I looked at him and said: I get it, buddy… I miss nature too…

Yesterday, I watched him run all over the place in the empty campground and pounce on swaying grass, and I felt just like him inside! I belong here. I *need* nature to be well. I need a bonfire under the stars and a completely silent dark night to feel rested. And I need to feel rested to feel like myself. So, cheers to another beautiful place to spend the week!

*We have discovered the BC Rec Sites (official Website) as great camping options. Some are free or much cheaper than provincial parks (PP) ($12). The sites have fire pits, picnic tables and are often much less busy than PP. The stay limit is 14 days in a month.

Last days at Boer Mountain

Fall is well on its way here. During the time we stayed at the campground, we really saw nature going from summer to fall. The colors are amazing now!

This place is one of the most amazing camping spots we have ever been to. Boer Mountain has left us many unforgettable memories... and a few scars.  Seriously, what are the chances to find world class bike trails out your door, a beautiful lake to paddle on, a free peaceful campground (and free firewood!) five minutes from a friendly town with everything you need? 
Boer Mountain, we will be back.

Bike, eat, sleep... rinse and repeat (and a bit of kayaking too)!

The kids spent many hours carving spoons around the fire. They have to burn the center to make it hollow.

The biking crew!

Muddy trails!

The Northern Aqua Ninja, a very rare specie!

With 10 bikes to take care of and all the riding that happens around here, there is almost always someone working on a bike...

The girls taught our new friend Lee and his girlfriend how to cook bannock over the fire

Oh the beautiful sky! We have been hoping to see Northern Lights, but no luck so far!

Living so close to nature, I cannot help but notice every little change in the environment around me. How the light changes throughout the day depending on the weather. How the beaver spends his day going back and forth across the lake, collecting timber for his hut. How the mama duck swims around the lilypad patch with her 6 ducklings... Even the unicyclist with his bear bells (yes, on a mountain bike unicycle... He goes down When Pigs Fly and Charlotte's Web on it!!) that rides by our campsite every night at the same time, like a swiss watch. 

There is something quite comforting in that sameness, that predictability.

When Jennifer and I went for a kayak outing at sunset, we stopped paddling for a moment once we reached the other side of the lake and listened in silence. The sun warmed our faces and we smiled at each others. Both of us strangers in that self-contained world.