Lake Mead National Recreation Area, Las Vegas Bay Campground

I think I can say without a doubt that this has been the best campsite we have ever had in our life! You see this overlook in the last two pictures? It was on our campsite. Our own private overlook. Every morning, we watched the sunrise in bed, snuggled together.

There was a beautiful trail to walk along the cliffs and amazing rocks to collect and crack open (inspired by the beautiful geodes our friends' parents found near Rockhound State Park, NM, and showed the kids while they camped here with us for a few days. It was so lovely to have such sweet grandparents around!).

We also went mountain biking in Boulder City (Bootleg Canyon is a moutain biking mecca!), but the camera did not come with us...

Valley of Fire State Park, Nevada

The Valley of Fire derives its name from red sandstone formations, formed by petrifaction of ancient sand dunes during the Jurassic era, 160 million years ago. The exposed rock responsible for the dramatic colors and formations is Aztec sandstone. Complex uplifting and faulting of the region, followed by extensive erosion, have created the present landscape.

Valley of Fire is Nevada’s oldest and largest state park, dedicated in 1935. Ancient trees and early man are represented throughout the park by areas of petrified wood and 3,000 year-old Indian petroglyphs.

We hiked the White Domes and Fire Wave trails; both were simply breathtaking. Valley of Fire is up there among my favorite State/National Parks, not very far behind Arches NP and Bryce NP.

I simply cannot imagine how hot this place must be in the summer. It is only mid-March and some of us were seriously overheating. On the Fire Wave hike, JF and our friend helped an elderly man down a slippery sandstone path. He was hiking in this rough terrain by himself with his cane and no water, and we left him a bit concerned. On our way back, we stopped at the Visitor Center and JF let the rangers know about him. They took notes and said they would be there in about 30 minutes. I am always amazed at how sensitive JF is to others… He also made the girls and I drink a full bottle of water before heading back on the road to make sure we would not be dehydrated.

As we drove back to Vegas (there is no cell connexion in the Valley of Fire campground, by the way…), I put my sandy feet up on the dash of the Westy, rolled down the window so the wind would cool me down, and let all that beauty sink into my soul. What an amazing day we had!

Red Rock Canyon, Nevada

Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area is located 17 miles west of the Las Vegas famous Strip. Unfortunately there is no cell signal at the campground, so we could not camp there during the week. We stayed at an RV park in the hood in Vegas. The hood is the bad part of town (not that there is a good part of Vegas...). There were couples fighting and screaming in building appartments right outside the RV park and 4 hookers walking in front of the gate at any time of the day. JF even got a few waves! And from 4 pm on, ambulances every 20 minutes... Oh, and planes every ten minutes, 24/7. If I extended my arm through the bedroom window, I could touch the neighbors' trailer's slide out... 

I don't remember if I talked about the fact that I was electrosensitive here or not. I found out the hard way after we had installed the solar system on the bus and I started feeling very unwell. I shortly found out that I was reacting to the dirty electricity from the EMF. Long story short, we fixed the problem and I am usually OK, as long as we turn off the electricity and the Wifi before going to bed. But when we are in big cities with lots of cellphone waves and wifi, even when I turn off everything in the bus, I toss and turn all night (like the princess on the pea), wake up with a headache, burning eyes and nausea. I feel irritable and my brain is foggy.

Needless to say, I was desperate to get out of there. Sitting on top of the red rocks after a very fun scramble up, I felt like myself again.

Since I found out about my (low-level) electrosensitivity, I understand better why the city drains me and nature helps me come back to center... If only we didn't need cell connexion for work...!
 

Craggy Wash BLM, Lake Havasu, AZ

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We found another great spot for boondocking in a gorgeous location, 5 miles from Lake Havasu. It is on a BLM land (the exact spot is called Craggy Wash BLM, if you'd like to go). There were wonderful hiking trails and biking trails right at our door. Another great thing is that there was excellent Internet signal (4G 5 bars!), because you know, we need to work, even if you might have the feeling from my posts that we don't work much (which is not the case AT ALL!).

One of the things I love the most when we arrive late at night when it is dark is discovering the amazing spot we are parked in the next morning.


The full moon was so bright that we registered a small charge on the solar panels at night!
So cool! Charging our panels with the moonlight! 

Her first photo shoot

And some of the photos taken by Mathilde (she really wanted me to post them on the blog! She was so proud, especialy of the sun burst!)

My friend Mat (check his awesome work here)  and I decided to go explore Salton Sea Beach (another area along the Salton Sea) with our two rookie photographers. 

That place was even more eerie than Bombay Beach, the decaying smell even stronger and it was also strangely more inhabited... The full moon simply added to the feeling of apocalypse of the place. Mathilde and I walked into one of the abandoned house (3rd picture) and a flock of 20 pigeons took off from inside the building, leaving us screaming and laughing nervously. We kept exploring until a young boy came circling around us on his bike... I can't imagine how it must be to be raised in such an desolated place... I could only feel fortunate for what we have...

We ended up on the beach after sunset, playing and jumping the on the very weird moving/bouncing ground, wondering what in the world created that weird underground movement... 

I am sure Mathilde will remember her first photo shoot!!

Abandoned: a photo essay along the Salton Sea

I've always been fascinated by abandoned places. When I started being more serious about photography (when I was 19 and developped my own prints in the college photo lab), I would drive in the countryside around my hometown and stop to explore old barns or burnt structures. 

I wrote about the story of the Salton Sea a few months ago when we first visited. I wanted to go again, see more, feel more. When I walk into an abandoned building, I feel pulled in and pushed away at the same time.

When we stopped at Bombay Beach, the wind was howling and the sun was setting. I walked through the glass shards carefully in my sandals, noticing a dead fish that had found its way in a corner, an old blanket, a few rusty cans and, a small pink pillow (maybe a child lived here?). 

As we drove back, I tried to imagine who lived there before. What the house might have looked like when it was inhabited. When it provided shelter to a family.

If only walls could talk.

Slab City and East Jesus

Slab City is a squatters' camp deep in the badlands of California's poorest county, where the road ends and the sun reigns, about 190 miles southeast of Los Angeles and hour's drive from the Mexican border. The vast state-owned property gets its name from the concrete slabs spread out across the desert floor, the last remnants of a World War II–era military base. In the decades since it was decommissioned, dropouts and fugitives of all stripes have swelled its winter population to close to a thousand, though no one's really counting. These days, their numbers are growing thanks to a modest influx of recession refugees like the Angios, attracted by do-it-yourself, rent-free living beyond the reach of electricity, running water and the law. And while the complexion of the Slabs, as the place is locally known, may be changing in some ways, the same old rule applies: respect your neighbor, or stay the hell away.

In Slab City, there are Year-Rounders who brave the 120°F summer inferno, and Snowbirds who land from as far as Canada with their souped-up RVs and pensions, soul-searching Gypsy Kids who arrive by train with little more than the ragged clothes on their back, Spaz Kids and their electro-psychedelic outdoor parties, and Scrappers who risk life and limb to collect shrapnel from the gunnery range that flanks the camp, where Navy SEAL teams train year-round. That's to say nothing of the rowdy bikers who pass through, or the meth-addled loners on the outer edges inclined to greet a trespasser with a gunshot. If the Burning Man festival were a permanent settlement instead of a weeklong escape — remixed with a hard dose of reality — this might be it.

 "The Last Free Place in America" lives up to its nickname. Want to hang out nude in thermal mud baths or skateboard stoned in the bowl of an Olympic-size pool? Go for it. In the mood to dig an SUV-size trench for no particular reason or play 18 holes of golf on a grassless course to the sound of bombs in the distance? This is the place (excerpt from here). 

East Jesus is in the harshest, most remote part of Slab City, and is an experimental, habitable, extensible artwork in progress since 2006. It is constructed entirely of salvaged refuse and recycled materials and powered by the sun. It is a place that inspires one to think outside the box. To think about what it is modern society throws “away” while reminding us to consider where is “away” (excerpt from here).

Salvation Mountain, Slab City

Salvation Mountain is located in the lower desert of Southern California in Imperial County, just east of the Salton Sea, about an hour and a half from Palm Springs. Salvation Mountain is Leonard Knight's tribute to God and his gift to the world with its simple yet powerful message: God is Love. Leonard's passion has lovingly created this brilliant "outsider art" masterpiece resplendent with not only biblical and religious scripture, but also including flowers, trees, waterfalls, suns, bluebirds, and many other fascinating and colorful objects.

Salvation Mountain must be seen to be fully appreciated as those who have made the journey will attest. Its 50 foot height and 150 foot breadth is made totally of local adobe clay and donated paint and is truly unique in the United States and probably the world. From its Sea of Galilee at the bottom, to the big red heart in the middle, to the cross at the very top, the reoccurring theme of "Love" is everywhere.

A scene of the movie Into the Wild has been filmed there in 2007 in which you can see and hear Leonard talk about his mountain.

Leonard died in 2014, at the age of 82.

Beauty everywhere

I used to think that I would change. That reading inspiring books would change me. That I would be so inspired and that after having such an amazing breakthrough, I would finally get it and become *that* super calm and relaxed person. And I failed. Repeatedly. And reread said books.

How could those incredible revelations that affected me deeply not stay with me for the rest of my life and make me a better person? Of course, that NVC workshop would totally change the way I interacted with people…

But the truth is, yes, we do change, but truly just a little.

There is no book, no encounter, no class or workshop that will change us in a dramatic way forever… What if we accepted that we would not become completely different than the person we are right now. Would that be a big fail? What is there was nothing to fix?

Once I surrendered to the fact that I would not become the idea of who I think I should be and dwelled in the possibility of little changes, something shifted inside.

I think that’s what they call acceptance.

 

"Most things will be okay eventually, but not everything will be. Sometimes you'll put up a good fight and lose. Sometimes you'll hold on really hard and realize there is no choice but to let go. Acceptance is a small quiet room." -Cheryl Strayed, in Dear Sugar

Boondocking in the Anza-Borrego desert

The friendships that you create on the road are quite unique. You spend many hours a day together, every day (if you choose to stick together, of course). You drink coffee in your pj’s around the bonfire, explore, drive places (and get stuck) and talk, talk, talk…

They have some of your forks and cups and you have their card decks and coats in your rig. You feed each others’ kids and care for them like they were your own.

Day after day, you share a bit more of who you are with them. It’s like a group love story on fast forward, friendship on speed. As the days go by, you realize that you will have to say goodbye at some point. And that feels heartbreaking.

It is hard to imagine that you have known each other for only 4 short months. It is hard to imagine life without them when they have taken so much space in your life. In your hearts.

And you realize that home really is an experience more than a place.

 

"When you travel, you release all ties to who you were yesterday, and you succumb to the person you are now. With that comes freedom and the ability to relate on a deeper level with the people you meet. This freedom brings celebration. (ytravelblog.com)"

La Jolla Cove

Mara and I kayaking in La Jolla

La Jolla Cove is San Diego’s most desirable spot for kayaking, snorkeling and diving. The water is calm and ecologically protected, providing a safe home for colorful garibaldi, yellowtail, rays and even leopard sharks. The harbor seals came very close to the people swimming on the beach. There was a little boy that even felt it was a little too close for comfort!

Actually, I wasn’t surprise to read that the small number of sea lions that swimmers used to enjoy watching frolic some years ago has turned into a colony of as many as 300, ranging in size from 100-pound females to 900-pound bulls, which have been mounting, biting, charging, and baring their teeth at swimmers and beachgoers.

Lately, the increasingly territorial animals have started blocking swimmers from getting into the water, forcing people to walk back and forth on the beach until they can find a safe opening to enter the ocean… Of course, people are exacerbating the problem by tossing fish, potato chips, and leftover food off the cliffs and over the sides of boats. While we were there, we saw a few people jump over the fence to take pictures of the seals and sea lions.


The other big disadvantage is the foul odor of sea lion and bird poop. And I mean, cover-your-face-with-your-t-shirt-or-scarf-exclaiming-OMG-this-is-awful foul. It is actually driving locals and tourists away from area restaurants and hotels.

Ocean Beach Farmers Market, San Diego

I love how a Farmers Market ambiance speaks about its city. Ocean Beach is a funky neighborhood with a free-spirited vibe and the Farmers Market was ubber-crunchy. There were lots of awesome greens and sprouts, raw food, , tons of vegan options, fresh artichokes, kumquats, cherimoyas, unique homemade arts, old hippies dancing to some good bluegrass live music. A real cornucopia of sights, sounds and smells.

We love to support local farmers as much as possible, and we love to have the freshest greens possible for our (almost) daily green juice.

We sat on the beach wall while we enjoyed our dinner. San Diego, you're awesome!

The Ocean Beach Farmer’s Market occurs every Wednesday from 4-8 pm, and is located on the 4900 Block of Newport Avenue, between Cable and Bacon Streets in Ocean Beach.

BMXing

When JF found out that we were camping 15 minutes away from the US Olympic Team Training Center in Chula Vista, he convinced us to check it out. Since our traveling friend Mat had done some BMX competition as a teen, it was even more exciting. Athletes from all over the world train there and we were lucky enough to see some of the fastest racers in the world when we were there during the pro training.

When the boys found out that it was possible to rent bikes and try the track, we decided to go for our friend Jennifer's birthday. They all had a blast (I borrowed Mat's D700 and 24-70 mm f2.8 amazing lens and took pictures instead). The smiles on their faces was priceless. Our girls had a few crashes, but got back on their bikes. 

Once the track closed, we had a tailgate party with cakes to celebrate! 

Banjo making and Old Town, San Diego

A friend had organized a homeschooling tour of the Deering Banjo company, the biggest banjo producer in the United States. It's always interesting to learn how things are made!

Then, we headed to Old Town, a San Diego neighborhood considered as the “birthplace” of California. San Diego is the site of the first permanent Spanish settlement in California. It was here in 1769, that Father Junipero Serra came to establish the very first mission in a chain of 21 missions that were to be the cornerstone of California’s colonization.

We visited the historic buildings La Casa de Estudillo, one of the oldest surviving examples of a typical large Spanish-Mexican U-shaped one-story town house in California. We then walked around Heritage Park where several of San Diego’s most notable Victorian homes have been relocated and authentically restored to their original splendor.

We all  had dinner  together on the terrace of a Mexican restaurant and celebrated another great week of traveling and exploring.

Sunday in Balboa Park, San Diego

Balboa Park is a 1,200-acre urban cultural park in San Diego. It’s actually larger than New York's Central Park! In addition to open space areas, natural vegetation zones, gardens, and walking paths, it is home to 15 major museums, renowed performing art venues and several theaters, housed mostly in ornate Spanish-Renaissance structures. Placed in reserve in 1835, the park's site is one of the oldest in the United States dedicated to public recreational use.

The Botanical Building in Balboa Park is probably the most photographed location in San Diego, and it's mostly due to the beautiful Lily Pond. Located in front of the building, this pond is home to a number of koi (Japanese fish), a few turtles and some lotus plants too. The US Naval Training Station actually used the pond to teach rowing and swimming to new sailors during World War I and the US Naval Hospital use dit as a physical therapy pool for wounded sailors during WWII.

It is especially busy on the weekends, but well worth a visit!

Cabrillo National Monument, San Diego

Cabrillo National Monument, established in 1913, commemorates Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo's voyage of discovery who led the first European expedition to explore what is now the west coast of the United States.

At the time Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo sailed into San Diego Bay in 1542, a rich diversity of life was present, ranging from desert cactus to moisture-loving algae, tarantulas to sea slugs, and gray foxes to sea lions. Approximately 3,000 Native Americans lived in the San Diego area at that time. The Kumeyaay, or Diegueños according to the Spanish accounts, lived simply in the environment but likely impacted the landscape through the use of fire. Today, largely due to the impacts of European colonization and centuries of growth and development, the habitat Cabrillo saw is now among the rarest in the world. 

During periods of low tide, pools form along this rocky intertidal area in which you may see flowery anemones, elusive octopi, spongy deadman's fingers, darting fishes and the always entertaining hermit crabs.

Climbing in Temecula

JF found a great bouldering gym 15 minutes from our campsite. Bouldering is rock climbing without a rope on shorter walls. It was great because the kids could climb without needing us to belay them and could try any route they wanted. We climbed until we dropped. 

I love the climbing gyms' energy. Everybody helps each other, and the vibe is really fun and relax. It reminded me of our climbing gym years in Montreal when we both still were at University... and our forearms and hands could tolerate much more climbing before being fried!