An incredible weekend in Carcross, Yukon (overnight hike + bike)

We went just below that snow patch that we can see higher up in the middle.

Beautiful arnica flowers everywhere on the trail!

Our little village!

The beautiful beach in Carcross along Lake Bennett.

We wanted to do one overnight hike before leaving on our 5 day/4 nights hike on the Chilkoot trail next week. We decided to combine a bike ride on the awesome trails of Montana mountain in Carcross (45 min from Whitehorse) with a hike up Sam McGee/Mountain Hero trail. This trail was originally made to service the tramway built in 1905 by Sam McGee for a silver mining operation. There are many remnants of the tramway and mining artifacts along the trail.

When we arrived in the alpine after a slow 3 hour climb in the forest, we quickly found a great spot to set camp. The view from the top is fantastic, with Windy Arm of Tagish Lake below, and all of the surrounding mountains. We all sat in silence, in awe of this incredible wild land, thankful for it all. And thankful for all this amazing nature, from the scraggly moss I used to scrub the pots and dishes in the freezing creek, to the beautiful arnica we collected to make a healing oil for our sore muscles, the deliciously sweet wild rose petals we ate along the way and the chewed up yarrow leaves we put in Mathilde’s nose to stop a nose bleed.

And yes, it was every bit as idyllic as it looks... Except maybe for the sleeping part, because, well, sleeping in a tent on a ridge over the tree line 3 days before summer solstice is a challenge! Let’s just say that I could read my book at 2 am without a headlamp… And there was the full moon... And by 6:30, we were dying in the tents because the sun was so hot! Oh my beautiful Yukon!

*Photo note: these pictures have all been taken with my phone (a Samsung Galaxy S7) with the Camera FV-5 app and imported into DXO Optics Pro (a photo enhancement software that I LOVE). I’m pretty happy with the result! It’s nothing like my Nikon, but it works.

On top of Mt. Anderson, Yukon

This is Anderson mountain. We went all the way to the top on the ridge to the left.

                                                                                Mt. Anderson is located in the beautiful Wheaton River Valley.

Climbing in the alpine is hard work. David is eating some bearberry flowers to fuel up!

                                                                      Is that the view you expected Cat? No, but it's nice... Nice? Yeah, you sure are spoiled...

The climb up was steep and intense, but the view was well worth it! THAT was the view I was expecting!

Other side. Can you spot JF and Aïsha?

Time for a June snowball fight!

There are so many mountains in the Yukon that most Yukonners don't even know where Mt. Anderson is located. There are no hiking trails per ser there, but some of old mining roads that you can follow until you get over the tree line, then you simply pick a line up through the alder brush and bearberry bushes, avoiding the morraine as much as possible and make your way to the ridge. The climb in the alpine is steep and longer than it looks. Sarah turned around at some point and said: that mountain keeps on growing, guys! Yep, that's what mountains seem to do when you climb them! The summit is always "right there".

 The 360 degree view from the top was simply jaw-dropping. Hiking in the alpine is so unique. This wide-open wild space covered in moss and tiny flowers, the route possibilities are endless. That sure is a hike we will remember for a long time.

Hike to Bonneville Lakes Ridge, Yukon

It was crazy windy on the ridge and the kids wanted to make sure that Java would stay warm!

You have to be pretty creative to take shelter from the wind in the alpine!

The Bonneville Lakes hike, near Fish Lake, is a popular hike that is close to town (popular meaning you are likely to see a few other hikers on the weekend!). We had never done it and included it in our Chilkoot prep hikes. 

Our beautiful life up North

My camera hasn't followed me around much lately. It seems like Facebook and Instagram are replacing blog posts more and more and I've joined the crowd over there, but the blog is still well and alive, don't worry. 

This week, the girls and I volunteered as trail builders for a bike trail that will be built by women only and it is such a rewarding (and physical!) process. We will try to participate to all the steps of the trail building and should be able to ride the trail in a few weeks! On the first day, we followed a woman who was cutting down trees with a chainsaw and our job was to move the trees and branches away from the trail. The second time, we learned to use a pulaski to cut the thick moss and roots to start creating the single track trail. After 15 minutes, we were all pretty sweaty and tired when Mathilde exulted: I LOVE this! A little later, she came to see me and told me she wanted to do Meagan's job when she grows up (Meagan is a trail builder for the city and she was in charge of the trail design and tree cutting. She is also a badass mountain biker.).

I also worked as a rock climbing instructor/belayer for a school group with the local rock climbing company - Equinox Adventures - and had a blast. I will do more of these gigs in June with other schools and Jr Rangers. I am actually considering a position for Equinox Adventure summer program. I'm ready for a new challenge. Anyone surprised? 

There was also an awesome girls night for 3 friends birthday where we danced our hearts out under the midnight sun, there was a walk in the forest with an adorable 2 years old looking for fairy hats (blue bells) and her wonderful parents, during which Java chased his first bear away (or maybe he simply wanted to play with him, we're still debating... but the black bear was about 20 feet in front of us on the trail and was in no hurry of going away... ). There was a bonfire with friends (and apples cooked on sticks), lots of time beside lakes and mountains (can you believe that there are so many here that some don't even have names?), some paddle boarding (and a fully dressed fall in the freezing water). There were 4 cakes baked, the last bike skills clinic, some greenhouse time and kids dancing to Gagnam style while playing table soccer and thinking they are the sh*t. 
 

Camping and playing in Pine Lake, Haines Junction, Yukon

We tried a different technique than the cone for Java (he got fixed last week) to keep him from licking himself... He wasn't impressed...

Cooking bannock over the fire.

Harvesting spruce tips to make a medicinal syrup.

Collecting spruce pitch to make salve.

Kayaking on Pine Lake

We just love Pine Lake campground! It's far enough from town (90 min North of Whitehorse) for us to feel off the city hook and close enough to so many great hikes that we never get bored. There is a nice beach for warm days (and a clay pit!) and the lake is simply amazing! Paddling on a turquoise lake while being surrounded by the Kluane Mountain Range is high on my list of "how close to perfection can you get?".

Pine Lake is a territorial campground that is located only 10 min from Haines Junction and Kluane National Park. It is actually a nicer (and cheaper) campground than Kathleen Lake's (in Kluane National Park). If you are in the area, don't miss the amazing Visitor Center in Haines Junction.

Hiking up King's Throne, Kluane National Park, Yukon

This is a steep trail up to a spectacular cirque -- the "seat" of the King’s Throne. The hike up to the cirque (and return) is 10 km (6 mi). If you keep going up to the summit (unmaintained, unmarked trail on steep scree), it is a 16 km (10 mi) hike. The hike to the summit is extremely steep and hiking sticks are highly recommended (slippery moraine most of the way). Elevation gain is 548 m (1,800’) to the cirque and 1 442 m (4,729’) to the summit. If you want to try the summit, assess the weather carefully, it can get very windy very quickly. Not a good thing on an exposed ridge. Clouds can also descend rapidly and make finding the route difficult.

As usual, be very bear aware. Kluane is home to the most important concentration of grizzlis in the world. We had been informed that there was a mama grizzli and cubs in the forested part of the trail, so we were very loud and stuck very close together, with an adult up front (with a bear spray) and an adult behind (also with a bear deterrent).

Kluane National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is over 22,000 km2 in size, and 82% of it is covered in mountains and ice. It’s home to the St. Elias Mountains, the most massive range in Canada, and the second highest peak on the continent, Mount Logan.

Hiking up Sheep Creek, Kluane National Park, Yukon

A tad bit windy!

A curious Dall sheep looking at us.

The children ate Bearberries flowers along the trail.

It was so windy on Kluane Lake that there was some dust from the dried lake bed section flying everywhere. So much so that we wondered if there was a forest fire.

 

We had planned on hiking Sheep Mountain Trail, but found out it is much more strenuous than the Sheep Creek trail and that you can’t turn around because of the very steep climb in the moraine. Since it is a 16 km hike and it was noon already, we decided to hike up Sheep Creek, where we could enjoy a view of the Slims River and Kaskawulsh Glacier. From Sheep Mountain Trail, you have a view of Kluane Lake (Yukon’s largest lake) and can see sheep from up close. Interestingly enough, this trail is virtually snow-free all year.

We stopped at the little visitor center and could use the binoculars and telescopes to see the many sheep on the mountain. It is baby season, so we were lucky to see many 3 weeks old Dall sheep babies! What a treat!

Sheep Creek Trail is a 10 kilometre (6 mi) return hiking route with an elevation gain of about 430 metres (1400 feet) reaching an elevation of 1281 metres (4200 feet). For more information about that hike and the driving directions, check this site.

A grey hike on Grey Mountain

Picking forgotten cranberries from last fall. They are now pretty sweet... for cranberries!

Happy Yukon dog!

Java had a blast playing in the snow!

These late nights of light are hard on sleep... Catching up on rest in the moss and lichen...

Spring is about a month behind on top of Grey Mountain and the crocuses are just opening!

We clearly didn't pick the best day for catching up on the past year, Josée and I! Between the yelling to keep the bears at bay and the howling wind, it really wasn't conducive to chatting, but the view from the top of Grey Mountain is always amazing. So we went back to the warmth of her beautiful home, wrapped ourselves in blankets, poured a glass of wine and it was the perfect end to a beautiful Yukon day!

On Yukon Time

Yes, you can fill your water bottle in the Yukon river and drink it! No filtering required!

10:30 pm and still plenty of light. There is still a month before the Solstice, so the days will get even longer!

Every time I drive back to the Yukon in the spring, my brain goes into high gear. I never know if it’s all the things to do all of a sudden because we’re back home (I have to buy a calendar just for my time in the Yukon!) or the super long days of light, but I feel totally caffeinated and hyperactive.

I don’t think you can really understand how wild this place is until you visit it. You truly are a guest here. For instance, there is a grizzly mom and her two yearlings living very close to our friends’ house right now. So, every time we go out of the house to get to the bus or vice versa (which are literally 50 feet from each other), you have to make noise so as to not surprise them. The other morning, as I drank my coffee by the lake, there was a golden eagle just on the shore. A canister of bear spray is a mandatory piece of equipement for our bike class, and it goes in the water bottle holder on the bike.

I also think that you can’t fully experience the wildness of the North by coming only for the summer. Winter is when the North is in its full element.

I love this time of year! The young leaves are just starting to open, the crocuses are slowly wilting and the lupines are just starting. The huge Northern mosquitoes are still slow and groggy, and the earth is just beginning to wake up  from her long winter sleep. With all that light everything is happening so fast, it's crazy! No wonder I feel wired!

Northward bound!

Martine has started a tradition to give me a mug evertime I visit. I LOVE this new one!

Snow fight at Lake Louise. The Lake was still frozen, but still a stunning turquoise!

Driving the Icefield Parkway through Banff and Jasper National Park. One of the most stunning drives in BC.

I love that we are following Spring all the way up North (remember the cactus in bloom in Tucson in February and the lilacs in Virgin in March?) and fall all the way down South! My two favorite seasons! Never too hot or too cold to play outside!

Aïsha and I could not resist peaking into this abandoned café and hotel. You probably know by now that I have a thing for abandoned place. This one was pretty sketchy, but fascinating. There is something about witnessing this life frozen in time... …

Aïsha and I could not resist peaking into this abandoned café and hotel. You probably know by now that I have a thing for abandoned place. This one was pretty sketchy, but fascinating. There is something about witnessing this life frozen in time... Of course, when your selling points to attract clients were clean rooms and cable TV, no wonder you went out of business...

As usual, we were treated to a real show on our way North. Bighorn sheep, mountain goats, a wolf, cariboos, moose, lots of bears and even brand new bison babies...

Oh and we stopped at Liard Hot Springs, of course! As close to paradise as you can get!

If you are planning to drive North, I recommend that you come up through Glacier National Park (crossing near Babb), check the Canadian side of Glacier (Waterton Lakes National Park) and head towards Calgary on Highway 2, then to Canmore on the TransCanada Highway (spend some time there, it's a super cool city, lots of biking, hiking, climbing), then a stop in Banff and Lake Louise, and then onto the Icefield Parkway. That's a must! Know that there is no connexion at all in Banff and Jasper National Parks, but there is some in Lake Louise, in Banff and Jasper (town). There are tons of nice hikes to do in these two parks. Our friend Melissa who knows the area pretty well recommended these hikes: Cirque Peak, Parker Ridge, Fish Lake (2 days), Bow Falls, and the little stops like Peyto Lake, Sunwapta falls and Maligne Canyon. Unfortunately, we didn't have time to do any of these this time, but are planning to take some time off work next time to explore more.

Then, take the 16 to Prince George and head North on the 97 to Fort St. John, and all the way up to Whitehorse! The drive between Fort Nelson and Liard is the nicest. Make sure to do it by day as you are likely to see many animals. There are pullouts along the road where you can spend the night. There is a nice flat pullout just before Summit Lake and a few more between Summit Lake and Muncho Lake. There is no signal from Fort Nelson to Watson Lake (you'll get some in Steamboat a little after Fort Nelson). Then, no signal from Watson Lake to Teslin. Make sure to have enough fuel or carry a jerry can of gas with you since the gas stations are far and few, some are closed and some are sometimes out of gas.

I am publishing this post from Teslin, 3 hours from Whitehorse. We'll be there tonight! So excited to be back!

A week in Rossland, BC

The girls decided to recreate the Princesses of the World book. They are so talented and imaginative!

It is asparagus season!!

Andy making his famous vegetarian poutine! Look at that t-shirt, it's the best! Andy has full of Andyisms that makes me love him even more. This morning, as I walked into the house, he said: I declare today a non-day. Everything you accomplish on a non-day is a bonus! Awesome man. I tell ya'.

Every year, Rosslanders hold what they call the Red Talks (Red Mountain is the ski resort in town, and you probably recognize the similarity with the Ted Talks logo). It was an amazing night! Andy was giving a beautiful talk on the Wisdom of giving back.

If you've been following our travels for a long time, you know our friends Martine and Andy. We first met in Costa Rica, when their 2 day impromptu visit became a 10 day long amazing moment. They crossed the States twice on their bikes with their daughters (and also biked in Cuba after Costa Rica). They are getting ready to leave in a few months for a year on a family bike trip in Europe combined with a 3-4 month rock climbing trip on a Greek Island. 

You might remember the bear and plums incident the first time we visited them in Rossland. Or how Andy gave our bus a facelift a year and a half ago.

During the last two years, they converted the Old Parish Hall into an incredibly beautiful house in Rossland. They now hold Tango lesson in their home once a week! They are incredibly talented artists and amazing people (art therapists, teachers, working with youth at risk, and so much more). They always welcome us (and our flaky plans...) with open arms and an open heart. They probably are among the most loving persons I know. We feel extremely fortunate to call them our friends. It was pretty special to see them connect with our friends on the road (the Vielhaber, of course!) and go on bike rides and share meals together.

An evening in Winlaw, British Columbia

When you've been living on the road for a while (and all over the place for many years prior), something interesting happens with your friendships. Most of our friends have rich fullfilling lives that do not include much time in front of a computer, and I am not in touch with most of them on a regular basis. Some of them follow our adventures on the blog or Facebook, some drop me a line once in a while (or I do), but even if we don't have any contacts, our friendships are still well and alive when we cross paths. I am lucky to have very flexible friends that are happy to see us show up at their place without much warning or planning. 

Everytime we drive south or north through BC, we stop in the Kootenays to see our dear friends Annie and Chris, and Martine and Andy (next post!). We were excited to find out that a German couple we had met while rock climbing at The Feathers last fall were staying at Annie and Chris' as Helpexers, helping them build their new house and work in the garden. 

We had a wonderful evening and a delicious meal wth ham from one of their own pigs, getting all the updates on the new additions to their homestead. They've been building that dream for years and it truly is a privilege to witness the progress every time we visit. 

The Great Northern Migration Saga

Before leaving Moab on Thursday, we went for a last ride with our friends at Moab Brands. None of us felt ready to leave this paradise but our time in the States was up.

On Friday night, we camped at Clark Canyon Reservoir, near Dillon, Montana. It's an awesome free camping spot. When we left, we stopped at our favorite Patagonia Outlet in Dillon and found some really good deals.

Only a few hours later, the bus started to behave weirdly and finally died on the side of the road. Lucky for us, our friends were just ahead of us and Karl and JF spent lots of time troubleshooting together to try to find the problem, while Jen fed the kids in her bus (and made dinner for all of us later!). We finally had to call our roadside assistance service (CoachNet, really happy with the service) and they towed us to a safe location (the Walmart in Butte, MT) since the garage was closed for the day.

On Sunday morning, the phone rang at 6 am. They were coming to pick us up to bring us to the garage. 

They brought the bus in at noon on Sunday and we were out by 5 pm! We were so happy!! We truly had no idea how long it would take them to fix the problem. Historically speaking, when the bus got in a garage for a problem, it got out 10 days later... So we were brainstorming possible sleeping arrangement. The weather was rainy and cold and as much as we love camping in the Westy, it didn't sound very appealing. However, we were right by the Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park and would have probably stayed  there for a few nights. However, we found out later that the caverns are not open before May 1st, so we'll have to be back! 

JF making burgers in a truck stop

Then as we neared the border (litteraly an hour and 15 minutes away, one of the bus' rear tires blew, ripped the muffler's exhaust that in turn sliced open one of the Westy's front tire... Yeah, unbelievable, I know.

We even had the police show up this time since we were not in a safe place.  

Aïsha decided to sit outside and draw while we waited for the mobile repair truck to reach us.

And she picked flowers for our dinner table. Kids are so good at sourcing beauty!

The mobile repair truck showed up at around 9 pm and changed the tire in less than 45 min. Since it was already pretty late, we found a Walmart in Colville to spend the night. And finally, finally, we crossed the border on Wednesday, 3 days later than planned.

We are now in the Kootenays, visiting dear friends.

We made it to BC, but we're not in Whitehorse yet! Wish us luck, we might need it... 
 

Hiking and swimming in Negro Bill Canyon, Moab, UT

In the beginning, we all felt like Aïsha: not sure I want to get wet and hike all the way with wet shoes and wet clothes... but it didn't take long that we were all standing knee deep in the water!

                                                                                       And yes, dripping as we hiked...                        

Natural waterfalls are the best!

                                                                       This base jumping guy gave Misty and I the creep! We thought he was falling off that cliff... until his parachute opened!            

 Free camping at its best.

The kids spent hours playing outside in the desert around camp.

Those who have been following our travels for a while might remember that we gave this hike a try 3 1/2 years ago, the first time we visited Moab. However, it was in November and the water was freezing cold and Aïsha fell in the water (some would argue that it was freezing cold this time too, but they can't say that to a Yukon girl.... ). I happily played and sat in the waterfalls with the kids. It felt amazing to cool down! That's definitely a hike you want to do on a warm day since there are at least 5-7 mandatory stream crossings. It's so awesome to see (and smell!) all that greenery at the bottom of the canyon. It feels like an entirely different place than the surrounding desert land.

It's the perfect hike to do on a (bike) rest day. If you hike all the way to the end (we didn't), you get to an arch called Morning Glory Bridge.

Where to ride in Moab and more practical infos

Klonzo North - Cross Canyon trail

Moab Brands (Bar M) 

Klonzo South - Carousel

Klonzo South - half-way throuh Roller Coaster, a really fun trail.

Jennifer made sure the girls got to celebrate their birthday again as soon as we got back together!

When you tell people that you are going to Moab to ride, almost all of them will talk to you about The Whole Enchilada (28 miles with 7000 feet of downhill, it is an epic whole day adventure for strong, skilled riders only - with a shuttle - and the top part is only open in the summer, the last part is the famous Porcupine Rim that can also be ridden separately). Or they talk about Slickrock (10.6 miles of pure slickrock goodness, black, pretty steep and very physical). Of course, these trails are epic in their own ways, but there is so much more in Moab! First, install the Trailforks app on your phone (MTB project is missing a part of the Klonzo trail system), it will come in very handy to navigate your way through all the trail systems around town. Then, come find a spot on Willow Spring Road to camp (14 day BLM, free) and enjoy the view! There are tons of pull-outs (some close to the roads, others further away (we suggest you find a far away one since there is quite a bit of trafic on that dirt road (especially on Fri-Sat-Sun) and it can get pretty dusty (and loud since half the crowd is here to do some four-wheeling on some other trails). 

After 3 times visiting Moab for a few weeks, here's what we can tell you about our favorite trails (by trail systems):

Klonzo (sometimes included in the Sovereign network) : This is a newish trail system with some great trails.
Klonzo North: Start with Dunestone (super fun combo of slickrock and dirt) and up Secret Passage, Vertigo (some black sections), Wahoo and down Borderline (all blue except for parts of Vertigo. We heard Gravitron is a fun black, but didn't get to do it. 

Klonzo South: Lots of easy fun ones for beginners (Hot Dog + Midway and the whole Carousel area for some slickrock introduction), as well as some good blue ones (Roller Coaster, The Edge, Zoltar) and a great black one (Houdini) that is mostly slickrock with not much elevation.

Horsethief: This is a new sector (also sometimes included or confused with Navajo Rocks). Combine the Mustang Loop (blue) with Wildcat (blue), Hildalgo (blue) and Whirlwind (optional) for a super fun ride. Just know that you go down for a while first and you have to climb back up... Make sure to do Getaway (blue) and Bull Run (black and blue sections, some sections near cliff edges) which is the beginning of Mag 7, a single-track composed of 7 trails that link the upper and lower ends of Gemini Bridges Road and that can be ridden as a point-to-point with a shuttle.

Navajo Rocks: Only fun trails! Do the big blue loop or only half of it (Ramblin and Rocky Tops) and come back for the other half (Big Mesa/Big Lonely)!

Moab Brands (aka Bar M): Warm  up on EZ and Lazy (super fun greens) and go do North 40 (blue), it's our favorite trail there. Circle-O is supposedly a fun black that we didn't have time to ride. Deadman's Ridge is a much more technical (rocky and bumpy) black that you can skip...

Klondike Bluffs: Don't miss Dino Flow (blue) and Alaska (if you are up for a climb, the view is totally worth it). For Dino Flow, you might want to consider doing a shuttle (leave a car at the Klondike South parking lot and start at the Dino Tracks parking lot). If you're up for a climb and do not want to do a shuttle, you can park at the Dino Tracks parking lot (don't park at the first parking lot by the highway, you'll have to ride a boring 5 miles on a dirt road to reach the trailhead), go up Homer and Alaska (blue) and down Mega steps (black). You'll even find dinosaur tracks along the way! You can then take Dino flow back to the parking lot. If you want to do Dino Flow all the way without a shuttle, park at the Dino Tracks parking lot, ride Dino Flow all the way down and come back up Jurassic, Jasper East and Midline (all green) for an easy uptrack, or take Baby Steps (blue) if you still have some juice left.

This comment about this sector made me giggle: The Klondike Bluffs Trail is perfect for your teenage son who fancies himself a racer, if you are worried he might kill himself on the Moab Slickrock Trail, which is certainly possible (from here).
And a good reminder: On a sad note, the dinosaur tracks in the Klondike Bluffs area are being destroyed by people who, with no skill or education, are trying to make molds of the prints to take home. We have seen everything from plaster of paris to spray foam. Needless to say, if people do not know how to make molds safely (using a plastic wrap to protect the track), then they probably should be shot on site before they mess this area up for the true amateur paleontologists. Leaving plaster or plastic stuck to the inside of a track is only one small step away from trying to crack the tracks out of the sandstone. Please do not stand on or mar the tracks in any way.

Amasa Back: For the very strong/expert riders only, sounds like Captain Ahab is not to be missed!

For a fun challenge, try Pipe Dream (black trail) located in town and try to do it without setting a foot down!

The Bartlett Wash (aka The Bartlett Bowl) seems like a pretty unique slickrock feature! Check out "The Toilet Bowl" here.

Here's a great site that list all the trails in the area.

Moab is a pretty cute little town that is pretty busy during high season (April to October, but busier during Spring and Fall, summers are hot!). You'll never see so many awesome bikes in such a high concentration! There are lots of bike shops in Moab, but we recommend Chili Pepper and The Moab Cyclery

Just know that everything is a little more pricey in Moab. There are lots of rental bikes on sale at the end of the season (November), but most of the regular sizes are so beaten up you really want to get such bikes. Four years ago, I got a really good deal on a XS bike that barely got out during the season. So, unless you are an XS or an XL, I would pass on the rental bike sales. If you need to rent a bike while in Moab, do a weekly rental (around $300/$350), which is much cheaper than daily ($80/$90).

As for food, you best one spot shop is the City Market (where most people shop with muddy legs and bike protections on). We really like the little health food coop called Moonflower. They sell delicious local greens and produce at decent prices. The rest is quite pricey.

Milt's Stop and Eat is an institution in Moab and every night of the week (except Monday when it's closed), you can expect to wait a good 30 min to get your burger, fries and shake, sitting outside among other bleeding and dirty riders. We make a point of eating here at least once when in Moab, but we have to say that it seems to have lost some of its quality. Our friend Karl had to bring back his large fries because there truly was only a handful of fries in there. They apologized and gave him a new order for free. Our fries were quite pale and undercooked and the avocado melt... didn't contain any avocado. The burgers were good, but not as juicy as they used to. Our chocolate-vanilla malt was as good as usual though.

Four our girls' night out, we went to the Spoke and liked their food (gluten-free bun option for their great burgers), good drinks, homemade ice cream and one of the nicest ambiance in town.

The boys went to the Atomic Loung/Moab Burger and found the food really good (great fries, homemade bacon, delicious burgers), but the atmosphere kind of so-so.

Our friends hit the Moab Brewery and didn't think much of it. The food is average and the beer is well, Utah beer. So if you like 4% beer, go for it, otherwise, forget it.

Grab and go: Try the Quesadilla Mobila. You can't miss this yellow truck. A bit pricey (like everything else in Moab), but it hits the spot.

Coffee. Try the Eklecticafé, nice ambiance, good coffee, vegan and gluten-free options. For a grab and go delicious coffee (or beans $13/lb), hit Moab Coffee Roaster, by the post office and almost in front of the health food coop Moonflower.

As for camping, there's plenty of options. There are a few big and crowded RV park in town, but the largest and most common place to camp is up at Sand Flats Recreation Area, a 10-minute drive up above town. Sand Flats road is the home of the Slickrock trail, and Porcupine Rim trail. There are over 120 campsites up and down the dirt road that runs through the recreation area. Campsites have pit toilets but no water. There's a fee to use the recreation area, and you pay at an entrance gate as you drive into the area. The Internet cell connexion is not great there.

We much prefer boondocking for free on the BLM land on Willow Springs Road, 12 miles North of town. It's closer to most of the trail systems we like, the view is amazing (view of the La Sal Mountains and Arches National Park from our bedroom!), but it's a bit of a longer drive to town (20 min), but the connexion is better here. Still, you might need a booster to get good 4G.

For laundry, you can choose between the gringo laudromat (uber clean and more expensive), conveniently located beside the City Market and the Moab Cyclery, so you can shop while you laundry dries and the locals' laundromat (Moab Speedqueen Laundromat, no website, of course), located in the same strip mall as the Chili Pepper bike shop and another smaller and more expensive grocery store (Village Market). No wifi on the premises, but go sit in the grass outside in the La Quinta Hotel and get their signal. There are a few more that I didn't check (Wet Spot, close to Main and Center).

You can go fill your jugs of water with delicious spring water for free inside the Gearheads outdoor store (by the gringo laundromat and the City Market).

Recycling: Moab has probably the most recycling per square miles of any town. There is recycling for everything and a garbage container in the Information Center Parking Lot. There is also some recycling at the Moab Cyclery (no tin). Cardboard recycling between Gearheads and the laundromat. Arches National park has plastic and tin, but not glass.

Showers and pool. You can shower at the Moab Cyclery for $5 or at the Youth Hostel for $3 (Lazy Lizard), and at most campground for $4 to $6. We think that the best deal is the Aquatic Center ($20 per family) where you can enjoy the nice warm pool with a super fun waterslides and diving boards (and clean warm showers that do not run out of warm water!).

Receiving packages : UPS can be shipped to the UPS Customer Center at 1030 Bowling Alley Ln Ste 2, Moab, UT 84532. Pickup times vary so call ahead 435-259-5593
Shipping from any carrier at Canyonland Copy Center (375 S Main St Moab, UT 84532 435-259-8432) There is a fee of $5 per package

Dump and Fill: at the Maverick on the South side of town (free, no purchase required). You can also go to the Slickrock Campground (north side of town, so closer to the BLM) and dump and fill for $5.

Wifi: Library, Information Center, Moab Coffee Roaster, Love Muffin, Eddie McStiff

 

Dead Horse Point State Park, Moab, UT

There are so many awesome trail systems in Moab that you could pretty much ride every day for a month and never do the same trail again... I'll talk more about all of them in a next post, but for this one, I will focus on Dead Horse Point State Park, for no other reason than Isa took lots of good iPhone pictures and that the view is incredible. 

This trail network is probably one of the easiest in the area, but it still offers some fun technical sections and an amazingly rewarding view. Actually, the view is so amazing that it's almost dangerous because you cannot help but look at it while riding! None of the trails is close enough to the rim that it feels scary (no exposure). 

This is one of the only trail network that requires you to pay an entrance fee (since it is in a State Park). It's $10 for a 3 day access. After the ride, drive or ride to the view point at the end of the road, it's 2,000 feet above a gooseneck in the Colorado River. The State Park is right on the edge of Canyonlands National Park. You can also hike the Rim Trail (an hour or two before sunset is the best time!).

If you are planning to go, here are some information about the trails. All the trails start at the end of the Visitor Center Parking Lot (the Visitor Center is at one end, the trails start at the other end). Ride Intrepid to Great Pyramid and the the whole Big Chief loop (stop to eat lunch at the point of Big Chief, then take Crossroads (green). If you still have some energy left, do Whiptail (blue), Twisted Tree (black) and Prickly Pair (blue with black sections) back to the Visitor Center. If not, just come down Prickly Pair. Don't take Raven Roll down (unless you are very tired after Big Chief), it's a very boring green. 

Salt Wash View Area, UT

We stopped there for the night on our way to Moab and pulled in in the dark. When I opened the curtains in the morning, my jaw dropped. We made coffee and went outside on the rocks to admire the incredible view. The Salt Wash View Area is located on the north side of Interstate Highway 70 about 52 miles west of Green River, Utah. This Roadside Look-Out has spectacular views of the San Rafael Swell and the stupendous rock formations. This View Area is on the lonely stretch of Interstate between Green River and Salina where there are no town or services along the highway for 110 miles (closest town is Emery). There are about 25 parking spots and there is good 4G Verizon. You can spend the night there (there are no no camping signs).

Riding Thunder Mountain, in Panguitch, UT

                                                                               Oops! Road block!

Thunder Mountain Trail is just outside Bryce Canyon National Park. The first section has more climbing than we expected after consulting the MTB project website and less scenic, but the descent among the Red Canyon's hoodoos is a blast as we ride along knife ridges and switchbacks back to the trailhead The last mile is a super fun let-the-brake-go flowy downhill.  The trail is mostly smooth hard pack but has short serious sections of loose, steep, switchbackery madness (probably the reason why it is rated as a black trail, because most of it is truly blue). There aren't much in the way of steps or drops, the technical sections are short and walk-able with the climbing mostly moderate. What makes it harder is that you are riding at over 8000 feet of altitude and you sometimes wish you had an oxygen mask on while climbing.

If possible, ride this trail from the upper trailhead to the lower trailhead, with a car shuttle back. Several sections of the trail are virtually unrideable in the uphill direction.

However, riding the trail as a loop is possible if you ride back up the bike path for 8-9 miles.

Exploring Bryce Canyon National Park

It was our second time visiting Bryce Canyon - the first time was in late October 2012 - and it was as stunning as the first time. There is something completely magical about this place. You feel transported to a different planet. These unique hoodoos (those tall bulbous columns) are created by erosion of course, but unlike many places, it is snow that is mainly responsible for it. As it melts, water seeps into the fractures and as it re-freezes, it expands and cracks the rock around it.

Because of its high elevation and lack of light pollution, Bryce is one of the darkest place on earth. Unfortunately, the two nights we were there were a bit cloudy, so we couldn't really see more stars than usual, but it was still incredibly dark.

A family week in Utah

The girls were super excited to go pick up Grand-maman Claudette and Serge (JF's mom and her partner). We hadn't seen them in almost two years!

We went to eat lunch at LYFE Kitchen in Vegas. So good!

We spent the first night at Las Vegas Bay Campground and the second one at Sand Hollow State Park, near St. George. We were so happy to swim in this beautiful (and freezing cold) water, surrounded by red rock cliffs and black volcanic rocks.

We then spent two nights in Zion National Park. Here they did the Riverwalk that leads to the entrance of the Narrows (the Narrow hike that I did with Martin was closed because there was a risk of flash flood and the water level was too high).

On Tuesday, Mathide decided to spend the day with her grand-parents while JF, the twins and I hiked Angels Landing and a part of the West Rim Trail (this picture was taken on the West Rim Trail).

Our campsite in Zion.

We then drove from Zion to Bryce Canyon through the tunnel. The view is absolutely stunning!

The girls (and Java!) were pretty excited to see snow! Bryce Canyon is located at 8000 feet and there were still many patches of snow on the ground.

We hiked Queen's Garden Trail and Part of the Navajo loop with Claudette and Serge, for a total of 6,5 km with lots of ups and downs. They did great! We were impressed!

We had a huge campsite in Bryce and the girls built a zip line. They had so much fun!

We went to celebrate the girls' birthday (and our last night together) at the Bryce Canyon Lodge with a delicious meal.

We had a great time playing cards at night and chatting by the bonfire. It was great to see the girls reconnecting with their grand-parents. Six days went by pretty fast.