Hiking Angels Landing and the West Rim Trail, Zion NP

Going up the Walter's wiggles.

At the Scout Lookout on Angels Landing trail (where many people end their hike) we decided to go check the West Rim Trail since there was a line-up at the beginning of the last section of trail for Angels Landing Peak. After a few switchbacks, we were by ourselves! Incredible! Angels Landing is such a busy trail (one of the most popular in the park) and we decided to keep going for a couple of miles on the West Rim Trail.

The West Rim Trail was simply stunning with views of Angels Landing and Observation Point.

After a few minutes, the red slick rock becomes yellow, then white and the trail takes you across large expanse of slickrock. The view was breathtaking. And there was not a soul in sight... even the morbidly obsese squirrels that have become a serious pain in the park do not come here. I really don't know why this trail is not more popular!

Since Mathilde had decided to not join us on the hike (she spent the day with her grand-parents), JF had the wonderful idea to ask the twins if they were up for the challenge of getting to the top of Angels Landing as a kind of 12 years old rite of passage. JF had done it 3 times in the last few years and knew it well enough to judge that they would be safe on it (but maybe scared).

I had never seen something like it before. You walk on a thin fin with big drops on both sides in places and a breathtaking view.

We made it to the top! It was much less scary than we expected!

It's funny that quite often, when Americans see and hear us, they thing we are Portughese. On that particular hike, 3 different persons asked us if we were. But one man kept speaking to me in broken Spanish even after I told him we were French Canadian... Some people are a little too eager to practice their second language...

                                                                                                 We went all the way to the top!

It was a really beautiful moment that we will remember all our life. It truly felt like a rite of passage, for us as much as for them. Watching them go so confidently, their stong bodies working up and down the rocks, agile and comfortable where many adults weren't.

I remember that when they turned 10, I could see the little girls and the women at once when I looked at them. Now, not so much. I see the young women they have become. I enjoy their presence so much and all the discussions we have. Something strange happens when your children become as tall as you. You litterally start seeing them more like an equal. And I feel so very fortunate to share my days with such amazing partners.

**If you are planning to come to Zion, check out the great post our friend Ching wrote about the hikes in the park. She is the one that suggested to combine Angels Landing and part of the West Rim Trail (which is approx 20 miles long, all the way to the west entrance of the park at Kolob Canyon).

Las Vegas Bay Campground, NV

That's the back of our campsite, a long point along the canyon rim. Pretty cool. Awesome for sunrise and sunset watching. Note the chairs in the background. Note that there are no trees to tie the dog. Mara thought it was a good idea to tie him to the black chair. Five minutes later, our Dutch neighbor came frantically knocking on our window screaming: Da dag is ranning dawn da canyon with da chair!!! Ahem.

The Bluff trail, right from the campground.

Let me tell you a bit about my fixation with cups and glasses. We've been making do with thrift store plastic glasses since we are on the road and I really wanted to upgrade to some nice durable stainless steel ones. I used some of my birthday money (thanks Dad and Hélène!) to get 4 tall smoothie glasses, 4 small ones - perfect for a sip of water and wine - (love them!!) and two medium cocktail ones - great for red wine too. I've realized that if I can't live clutter free (an impossible task when you live in a bus with 4 other persons), I at least need to surround myself with some beautiful and useful objects. And looking at these glasses all neatly aligned in the cup holders along the kitchen wall make me so ridiculously happy! Oh, and my story wouldn't be complete without telling you about my favorite pottery mug (a gift from my friend Helen Ann, from her hometown in BC) for my morning triple shot latte and my bilke cup (from my friend Martine, from Rossland, BC, an avid biker) for my afternoon two shot latte (I know this sounds totally coffee snob, but you'd think otherwise if I'd make you one!). And there's also my Jennifer souvenir mug (absent for the picture) for the mornings when I need a 4 shots one or a warm tea at night!

Just walking to the end of our site...

Glory bowl in the making. One of our staple camp recipe.

One of the most dangerous beer there is. So refreshing and delicious! Not your Father's Ginger Ale from Small Town Brewery.

Making Negronis! Yum! It tastes like Italy!

Some bus and bike mechanics, lots of drawing and writing by the canyon, some drink mixing, lots of delicious food cooking outside (and playing cards by the lantern light). That's the right way to start a vacation!

We camped here last year and deemed it the best campground we stayed at (campsite #52). It was only $10/night last year, but it is now $20/night (no services, water and dump onsite, no shower building). It is still a gorgeous place, but with Lake Mead Rec Area BLM right there (free), it felt like a big splurge. Still, having a campsite with your own canyon rim is a pretty cool thing!

We also went back to Bootleg Canyon for a bike ride on my official birthday (I know, I know, bear with me...). I remembered that I hadn't liked that trail network much last year, but thought it might be a matter of experience. Well, it wasn't. I just don't care for loose rock and poorly maintained eroded trails (much worst than last year) with slippery narrow exposed sections... It really wasn't our best ride... And you know what it reminded me? That I have taken to celebrate my birthday over a long period instead of on that one day because historically, since we have had kids, it almost always ended being a really rough day with the girls and a birthday flop. So cheers to a birthday month! And yes, it's over now. You won't hear about it till next year!

Hiking Ice Box Canyon, Red Rock Canyon Conservation Area, NV

This is the waterfall at the end of the trail. Some people tried to climb all the way up there (think people coming to Vegas and that never hiked before...). It is very steep and sleek. Much easier to climb than to downclimb... All of a sudden, we heard a big splash!

Seriously, people!

And a nice guy and his girlfriend helped that woman come down... She had fallen into the upper pool of the waterfall... And in the next 30 min, we saw a few (asian) tourists try to go up and get in very tricky situations... 

With a name like that, especially on a warm day, that canyon sounded very appealing! We came to Red Rock last year and did some scrambling in the Calico area and some awesome rock climbing too. Red Rock is a climbing paradise and our plan this year was to come spend 4-5 days to climb at the beginning of JF's vacation since there is no cell signal at the campground. However, since JF broke his finger mountain biking in Virgin, that plan went out the window.

We instead stayed at one of our favorite campgrounds (Las Vegas Bay, next post!) and came hiking to Red Rock. We wanted to hike Turtlehead Peak, but while doing some research on it, I found out that a woman had fallen to her death down the trail 10 days ago (lots of loose rocks on this exposed trail). However, given what we witnessed today at the waterfall, I understand that people die on hiking trails... Red Rock is only a 20 minute drive from the Vegas Strip and most people that go to Vegas, come to Red Rock... so lots of inexperience hikers doing things too hard for them or being unprepared = lots of accidents.

Ice Box Canyon was a nice hike that meanders through the desert for about a mile before dropping down into a canyon that ends at a waterfall. There is some scrambling required and a fair bit of rock hopping, which makes it a moderate 3 mile hike. 

A surprise night in Vegas

                                                                                      In front of the MGM

Delicious dinner at the Wolfgang puck (in the MGM): truffled potato chips with Maytag blue cheese sauce, Big-eye tuna tartare with spicy mayo and crispy sesame wonton, Fried calamari with gremolata aioli and mesquite grilled steak skewers. Desert was a baked Alaska with homemade pistachio ice cream. Delicious.

Oh, Vegas! You are everything I hate: loud, obnoxious, fake, overwhelming and pricey. Last year, we drove the strip and I figured I could check the Vegas box. I swore I would never again set foot here, but we had to have parcel shipped somewhere and the Las Vegas Thousand Trails RV park is a great place to do so, plus there are showers and laundry facilities right there... and well, JF's parents are flying in this week. So, Vegas it was. 

But what I didn't know is that JF and Martin and Isa had a plan. When we left the Virgin BLM on Sunday morning, we were all parting ways for a few weeks (Jen's family to Moab, Isa and Martin for a tour of Colorado + Grand Canyon and Ching and Jerud were staying put a little longer). When I saw Isa and Martin pull in at the same Vegas campground, I knew something was up! JF had made reservations to see the awesome show Absinthe for that night and we were going out together while the girls had a sleep over in Isa and Martin's rig! I was so excited!

Driving to the MGM with the Westy wasn't our best move... Clearly, we are not used to cities anymore. The Westy (with its roof top box) could not fit into any covered parking lot, so we had to find a spot to park a mile away from the restaurant (you can park for free in any casino's parking lot). We had no reservation and were already a bit squished with time... and I was hungry. We were not off to a good start... But we finally found the restaurant and relaxed. The restaurant is open onto the casino and you can see and hear all the hustle and bustle around. Girls walked by in bikinis, the slot machine sirens kept going off, a bunch of soccer fans walked by, scanting slogans. It was the full Vegas experience!

Once we left the restaurant, we had 45 minutes to walk 5 blocks to the Ceasar's Palace where the show was. Believe it or not, it took us almost all that time to get there! I honestly have no idea how people found their way around the strip and casinos before Google Maps. This place is a MAZE! 

On our way, we passed by not 1 but 3 Chewbaccas, too many sexy police girls, a few bad bunnies (it was Easter, remember), a guitar performer asleep on his guitar, lots of homeless looking persons with orange shirts (on which you could read: Hot ass escorts) distributing cards with naked women on them (the ground was littered with these cards... and there was still lots of kids on the streets), a Muslim man and his veiled wife filming himself with a selfie stick as he walked down the Strip, and so. much. more. 

The show was like nothing I ever saw before. A mix of circus and comedy. Totally NOT politically correct, very sexy and offensive. In the first 5 minutes of the show, I am sure many people wonder WTF this is. The host - the Gazillionaire - looked at a guy in the first row and treated him of Republican and said: Nothing says Trump supporter like a button down polo shirt and a trophy wife!! The two hosts did a great job at ad-libing and interacting with the crowd. Two hours of obscenity, sarcasm and amazing performances (and hot bodies!) What's not to love? 

It's a night I am not about to forget!

Hiking Hidden Canyon Trail, Zion National Park, UT

Sunrise over Zion

 

                                                                                         Bouldering Gagnam Style!

                                                                                                                            JUMP!

Delicious birthday lunch prepared by Jen: quinoa salad with roasted red onions, sweet potatoes and kale. YUM!

That's only the beginning of the trail!

It's our third time visiting Zion National Park and honestly, we thought we had seen everything there was to see. Then, we came across that link about Hidden Canyon and decided it would be the perfect birthday hike. I'm so glad we did because it was nothing short of breathtaking! It starts with a long climb up (the same one as the Observation Point hike we did last year) and veers right. There is a pretty exposed section of switchbacks with chains (where some people turn around) and then it's the end of the trail, but you can enter the canyon and scramble your way in as far as you feel comfortable. We left very early to beat the crowd and we rewarded by having the trail and canyon almost to ourselves!

On our way back, we decided to hike up to the canyon on the Observation Point trail since it is so spectacular. We had lunch in the sun just outside that canyon and the sun felt so amazing on our skin.

That night, my amazing friends had prepared a surprise dinner potluck. The kids worked hard to help prepare it and were great at keeping it a secret. The next day, we were all parting ways for a few weeks, or so I thought... but they had another surprise in store (next post!).

Rock climbing at Green Valley Gap

By 11:30 am it became obvious that we had to find a route in the shade since we were litterally cooking on the south facing wall. Good thing we remembered there was a fun chimney to climb down the crag with a nice shady spot beside it to hang out.

Mathilde giving grandma Tybee some love. She is the sweetest dog ever.

It's so nice to be able to park right by the canyon rim and set up the top ropes. The routes are short (30') and nothing extraordinary, but the spot is right by the town, there is no approach walk and the view is really nice. 

Since we only had one day of rock climbing in St. George this year (and since JF cannot lead because of his broken finger), we decided to come back to Green Valley Gap. We knew the place from last year and knew we could easily set up top ropes from the top of the canyon. 

It was fun to have Ching and Jerud with us and we had a fun relaxing day hanging out at this beautiful crag. They even installed a zip line in the *gap* and we could see people sliding down it as we climbed. There is also a mountain bike trail right around the canyon - namely the Zen Trail (black) and the Barrel trails. Isa and Martin came to join us after they rode Bearclaw Poppy. There are so many trails and crags to explore in St. George. We will come back longer next time. There simply doesn't seem to be a good boondocking spot close enough with good signal. If you know one, leave a comment!

 

Guacamole Mesa Trail system, Virgin, UT

This is not a great photo, but it's the only one in which we see the Cinder cone (aka Big Avocado, that gave the name to this place). A cinder Cone is a volcano composed of volcanic cinders or small, rough particles of hardened lava.

Isa holding on to the rock. She loooovvvveess cliffs!

The view on the drive up and down the trailhead.

I kind of wonder why the JEM Trail and Gooseberry Mesa Trails are the must-do trails of this area since Guacamole Mesa seems to have it all in a more compact and more stunning version : fantastic slickrock, awesome singletrack, amazing scenery and big exposure. It's the mesa adjacent to Zion National Park overlooking the Virgin River, but without all the people that you find on JEM or Goose. It’s a mix of undulating open-rock riding plus singletrack through pinion, juniper, and brush. The trail is upper-intermediate in tech requirement, with a short area of advanced tech at the southeast corner of the loop. If you don't usually wear protection, this is the right place to start doing so!

The trail system has been named after the Big Avocado, a perfectly round cinder cone, that has been caused by a volcanic vent blowing out small pieces of molten rock. The trails are named Margarita, Holy Guacamole, Lime Loop, and the more exposed one is called Salt on the Rim. What’s not to like about this place?

The drive up to the trailhead is spectacular, with one side covered in black volcanic rock boulers and the other with red sandstone cliffs.

Oh and we found some petrified wood pieces on the trail! The kids were stocked!

The Hurricane Mountain Bike Festival

Getting ready to ride Gooseberry Mesa

It is quite a funny coincidence that there was a LDS (Latter Day Saints) Homeschool conference in the community center right by the Bike Festival. Every time a rider had to go to the restroom, he/she was greeted by scriptures from the Book of Mormons and images of Saints. The funniest moment was when two girls and I were washing the dirt off our legs in the restrooms, sweaty and in tank tops and shorts, and two well-dressed (and well-covered) ladies walked in with their daughters and gave us a dirty look. What a clash!

Meet Mr. Cru Jones, the mascott of the festival, or festivals I should say, since his owner teaches bike clinics in the mountain bike festivals and brings him with her! He is a rescue malamute pup from Colorado and even has his own Instagram page!

Playing Hangman while waiting for dinner to be ready.

We tried some local beers at the Beer Garden. I really liked the Cutthroat, but the other one was bleh...

Awesome dutch oven cooked meal. I wish I had taken a picture of the pile of dutch ovens covered in charcoals. Only Jerud, Ching and I had Festival tickets, but between the 3 of us, there was enough food to feed JF, Aïsha and Mara (Mathilde was with Martin and Isa). The servings were HUGE!

Saturday and Sunday breakfasts were served at a super cute local coffee shop. We expected a coffee and a muffin type of breakfast, but we got served an awesome complete breakfast on the back terrace. 

First morning was a delicious breakfast burrito with all the fixings, everything homemade. Second day was blueberry buttermilk pancakes, eggs, ham, sausages, bacon, fruits, you name it! And the coffee was very good too. Oh and look at that view! The sun rose on the mountain as we ate...

Getting ready to ride up one more time!

Mara riding the Niner RKT 9 RDO. It was really cool that the girls (and really, all the kids!) could try the bikes I was trying since they were the right size for them too. 

Sunday morning girls' ride!

And the winner is: the Ibis  Mojo 3. The smile says it all.

Mara completely fell in love with the Scott Spark 720!

The Hurricane mountain bike festival was a pretty fun event! Not too big to be pricey and overlwhelming and just big enough to allow me to sample many great bikes. For $55, I got 3 days of unlimited bike rental, a huge Friday night dutch oven cooked meal and two delicious breakfasts at the local coffee shop. And up to 3 shuttles a day to the top of JEM Trail. Talk about a great deal! When you think that renting such bikes for a day goes from $50 to $80! And compared to the upcoming Moab's Outerbike Festival (same thing but with higher shuttles for $175!)

The whole weekend felt like a blur of grab-a-half-bagel-forgotten-by-a-girl-on-the-table-and-a-banana-and-go-ride-more kind of thing. 

Here are the geeky juicy details: 

We went back to Gooseberry Mesa on Friday, where I tested the Pivot and Liv bikes. I had taken the Pivot (429sl), but quickly found it way too big for me even if it was a size small. It felt like biking on high heels! I was glad I ran into Ching on the trail who was pretty unhappy with the Liv Lust bike she was trying because it was too small and compact for her. We switched and were both happier bikers!

On Friday night, I took out the Ibis Mojo 3 with 27.5 plus wheels. It was love at first spin! Even after riding most of the day, I went for a ride after sunset with the girls on the Jem trail to test this awesome machine!

On Saturday morning, I went to get a Scott Spark (27.5 wheels) and had JF drop me higher on the trail so I could ride it down. Five minutes in, I discovered how touchy the brakes were by going over my handle bars on a 5 inch drop... This bike felt like a purebreed race horse, incredibly responsible, very light and nervous. I get why advanced mountain bikers and racers like this bike, but it is too unforgiving for me at this point. Then, I did our usual two-hour loop in Hurricane Cliffs Trail system with the Ibis Mojo 3 and had a big smile on my face the whole time! 

I went back around lunch and got the same Niner I had tested at the Tucson bike demo and had fell in love with (The Jet 9 RDO). I did that same loop again (and yes, I was exhausted by the time I came back) and loved it. However, the frame felt a bit too big (I would need an XS in that brand and model, but they only had a S to demo) and the stand over height was too much for me. 

On Sunday morning, I tried the Niner RKT 9 RDO in XS (the only bike they had in XS to demo) and was glad to be able to compare it with the Jet 9. The stand over height was definitely better, but the cockpit felt too compact (same problem I have with my XS Giant Trance XW1).

So, here's a summary (and my great shoe analogy):

Pivot Mach 429sl: The S frame with 29 in wheels felt way too big for me. I felt I was sitting on top of the bike instead of *inside* the bike. Unfortunately, they don't make XS frames for that model. As I said earlier, it felt like riding on high heels. 

Liv Lust: I didn't care much for that bike since it pretty much felt just like my bike with bigger wheels (27.5 in instead of 26 in). Same too compact cockpit and a very twichy feel. This one felt like a pair of old sneakers that I know but do not like every time I wear them.

Scott Spark 720: As I said earlier, this bike felt like a race horse that I had a hard time taming. To continue with the shoe analogy, this felt like track cleats running shoes: very light, fast and responsive.

Ibis Mojo 3 with 27.5 plus tires: This is a funky looking bike with its big 2.8 in tires, but what a sweet ride this is! I love how the reviewer describes it on Pinkbike:


The bike's Nobby Nic tires are grabbier than a prom date when the lights dim and the slow music comes on.

The red Ibis, with its 2.8'' wide rubber, is more playful and alive than the large majority of bikes with tires that are half an inch skinnier and hundreds of grams lighter. Think Olympic gymnast who kills a large pizza every night and then scores a perfect ten despite it not looking physically possible. You know, don't judge a book by its cover and all that cliché stuff. 
Note that the 2.8'' tires are an inch shorter than the 29er tires. In order to fit 29er tires, the chainstays would have to get longer. So the bottom line is that it's a better 27.5+ bike because it's not also a 29er. 
The Mojo 3 handles like a regular mountain bike - there's no awkwardness or strange gyroscopic effect like you'll find on a true fat bike - and the Ibis scoots up complex and challenging climbs so well that you'll be forgiven for thinking that you're better than you actually are.
 

So the Mojo 3 was like a pair of Moon boots on steroids. The fun factor of this bike is through the roof and it is such a confidence builder. If only I could afford it, it would definitely be my next bike! 

Niner's Jet 9 RDO and RKT 9 RDO: I wish I could have tried the Jet 9 in XS. It would probably be a very close second favorite. I LOVED the geometry of the Jet 9. These two Niner felt like beautifully built Italian hiking boots (think Scarpa) with a Vibram sole. Sturdy, reliable, comfortable and they fit like a glove. 

By the way, these were all carbon bikes.

It was such an incredible opportunity to try so many high-end bikes and to see how different they all are. JF had been telling me for over a year that my bike doesn't fit me, that it's not the right bike for me and I keep saying that I am the problem (my lack of skills and experience). Now, I believe him. I just need to find a few extra thousand dollars...  

That was a lot of riding! And I feel stronger than ever! All that rock climbing and biking in Tucson, and now biking almost everyday. I know it's common knowledge, but I am blown away by the fact that the more active I am, the more energy I have. My legs feel super strong (now, if only my cardio could follow!). One of the many things I love about our lifestyle is that we don't "exercise", we explore. We are active because we want to discover all these beautiful trails and places around us. It's never been easier to be in shape!

That being said, I am now pretty sore from all that riding (and from the fall... I have a handle bar shape bruise on my left thigh...) and a few more scratches, but that's it.... Whereas JF broke a finger... Poor guy... He has a tendency to break things just as we hit the most epic bike spots (last time was in Burns Lake, now here and Moab...). Oh, and his vacation starts on Thursday and we were supposed to go rock climbing in Red Rock, NV. Back to the drawing board...

Canyoneering in The Narrows, Zion National Park, Utah

Very early morning coffee making outside, so as not to wake up the others.

                                                      A side-trip into Orderville canyon

The ray of light that I mention later.

Looking for rocks to bring back to the kids.

The current was very strong in places.

The Narrows is a very popular hike in Zion, and we made sure to be there as early as possible to beat the crowd and were rewarded by having the place pretty much to ourselves.

The sun only enters this very high canyon around 1 pm, so we hiked the 5 miles upstream without seeing any sun. Since we were pretty much alone, the experience was completely awe inspiring. At one point, we came to a bend and saw one ray of light falling all the way down to the water. It felt completely magical. We hiked as high as possible up to Big Springs, where the current is too strong to keep going and chose a spot on a river bank to eat our lunch. As we started heading down, there was more and more sun entering the canyon and the experience felt completely different. It almost felt like an entirely different place. We passed a few people, but most of the hikers stayed in the first few miles (and missed Wall Street, the narrowest part of the canyon, and the most beautiful).

Since the water in the canyon is at 44 degrees F at this time of year, it is necessary to wear a drysuit and neoprene socks with special river hiking boots (available for rental in many shops in Springdale). We saw a few brave souls in wetsuits and some crazy Spring Break kids in shorts and sandals. The probing stick saved us many falls in the icy cold water.

When I came back, Mathilde told me: Woah! You walked 16 km in a canyon full of water?! Mom, I didn’t think you were *that* crazy! I looked at her perplexed and she quickly added: but crazy is good! Ahahahah! That’s my girl!

Gooseberry Mesa

The trail system is on top of that beautiful Mesa. The lookout you'll see in the photos below is where the arrow is pointing.

Girls' ride!

Fun on the slickrock!

What a view!!

We can see our camp from the top!

The Gooseberry Mesa trail system has a lot to offer. From the easy White Trail to the double diamond South Rim, it is a must for every mountain biker that comes to the Virgin area. We started on the practice loop and JF and I took a wrong turn and ended on Bowls and Ledges and on North Rim, some blue-black trails that were outside of my comfort zone. I hiked my bike quite a bit, but it was still pretty fun to ride on the slickrock. It takes me a bit to get used to its "stickiness" everytime (imagine riding on sand paper!), then I remember how grippy it is and what I can do on it. It's so much fun (when it's not too scary...).

Mountain biking on the Hurricane Rim Trail network, Utah

Jerud and Ching's Toaster reflects the light so beautifully.

Once again, we found an amazing free camping spot right by an incredible mountain bike trail network (also called the JEM trail since it is one of the main trails here). Biking from our bus is such a treat and we've been on our bikes almost everyday since!

We've been having fun trying to locate the trails that we see in the movie Where The Trail Ends  (some of it has been filmed right here in Virgin!), and have seen a few crazy lines out there on the mountains.

La Verkin Overlook, Utah

The first night we arrived, there was a crazy thunderstorm.

And we woke up to snow-covered mountains the next morning (view from the bed when I opened the curtains...)

And to the left, view of Flying Monkey Mesa...

Can you see? Snow covered mountains on the left and Flying Monkey Mesa on the right.

We went biking on lower JEM trail with Jerud and Ching that we had met in Tucson.

Jerud and Ching's toaster and their veggie oil truck. Learn more on their website: Live Small, Ride Free.

Tiky, Ching and Jerud. They are the ones who first scouted this awesome place.

Post-bike ride beer at sunset at camp

This is litterally 100 feet from our door.

This too. Told you, that place is unbelievable.

Some places are too good to be true. Well, this was one of those... It was listed on freecampsites.net as a great place to spend a few nights and we understood it was on BLM land. On the second night, the police showed up and told us that we needed to leave. We were so bummed. This place was perfect. Just big enough to fit 5 rigs with a 360 degree views, a mere 3 minutes drive from the JEM trail trailhead. On close inspection of the map, it is just on the border of the BLM...  However, Jerud and Ching camped there for a week before the police showed up. I think that if you are alone and lay low, they will let you camp there.

We have moved to a less scenic spot, but this one is right on the JEM trail. That means we can bike right from our door!! And that trail has a hell of view! I'll try to bring the big camera with me next time to show you (it's right along a canyon, quite scary at times).

Carpe the hell out of this diem

Embellishing this post with phone photos from the last few weeks.

Every time someone tells a fulltimer how lucky they are to live this life, a kitten dies somewhere. I'm gonna spare you the white privilege spiel. You've heard it before. So in that regard, yes, I am lucky. I was born white in North America in a middle-class family with good loving parents and I went to University. But you know what? That's pretty much where it stops. And at least 90% of the people who call me lucky have the same *luck*. So what's the difference between us, then? I didn’t spend years reading blogs and Facebook posts thinking: I wish I could do it too. I jumped. We jumped. Unsure. Scared. Broke. But we did it. Call us impulsive and irresponsible (some have!), but we chose to do it nonetheless. Because we knew that happiness is found in the search for passion and meaning.

I know many of you are stuck between two generations so different, that you’d think there is more than a 100 years between them. The boomers and their role attribution: the bread-winner, the provider, the responsible father, the good mother, for whom pleasure only came later, in the form of 2 weeks off in the summer, a full pension or a glass of whisky on Friday night after a long hard week.

And at the other end of the spectrum, the millennials, the instant gratification generation, the flexible work schedule generation, the don’t-sweat-the-hard-stuff-generation. The Generation Me. Millennials have seen what chasing "stability" means. And they want none of it.

But what I see in the “I wish I could too” crowd is that they can’t break free from the mold because the mold defines them. Like a bear that grew up in a zoo and that relentlessly walk the same path in his tiny space hundreds times a day. That’s all they know. And they feel like they have no choice but to keep walking it. They've molded themselves into the life they think they are supposed to live. They always did what was expected of them. They locked themselves into their roles.

But why do we need to define ourselves by our roles? Because it’s reassuring. It’s like a neatly organized garage. Everything in its place. A place for everything. Don’t get me wrong, I like order. But I am learning to embrace chaos. As much as you try to contain it, life is messy. Order is an illusion. Stability is an illusion.

The suffer now, enjoy later generation is quickly realizing (with so many of their loved ones passing from cancer at an earlier and earlier age…) that tomorrow is not a given. Something strange happens as you near 40. You realize that you have an expiry date. And more and more people are jumping off the boat before sinking with it.

I see people that have given their whole life to their family, to their boss, to their house… and that kept only very little time and space for themselves, for what makes them, them. And they are left with the image of what they could have done if only… I have only one thing to say to these people: Carpe the hell out of this diem.

2 solar ovens and a great last weekend in Tucson

The kids made solar oven out of pizza boxes.

Very quickly. the soft tacos turned to taco shells and to tortilla chips! Success!

An old satellite dish and miror pieces for an even more powerful solar oven!

Feel the heat! 

Trying some Yeti bikes at Fantasy Island

Not much shade in the desert. The Westy shade will do!

I couldn'd help but smile everytime I looked at this, especially when climbing hills!

Fun on the slackline at Antonio and Pascale's.

We arrived at Fantasy Island trailhead a little before 8 am on Saturday morning to try some Yeti bikes for free. We rode for about an hour and when we came back to bring the bikes, we found out that another company (Niner) was there for a bike demo too. After riding the Santa Cruz bikes last week and the Yeti bikes this week, I felt that the problem with my lack of control on my bike was not a bike problem, but a rider problem.

As much as I liked these very expensive bike, they didn't make me feel like a more confident rider. I really liked the 27.5 wheels, the carbon frames, high-end double suspension and other components, but it was not that different from my bike. I am still pretty much a beginner rider. I really started mountain biking 3 years ago in Moab and haven't consistently mountain biked since. I have never felt fully in control on my bike, still struggle with sharp turns and fall a little too much... but even if JF kept telling me that my bike was probably too small for me (it's a 2012 XS Giant Trance XW) and that the geometry was probably not made for me, I kept thinking I was the problem (just like we tell people that want a "camera that makes good pictures" that it's not the camera, but the person behind it...).

So here I am, sweaty in my bike gear, standing by the Niner bikes' van with Mathilde. The 3 reps are busy talking with one guy. I look at them and wait. A good 5 minutes. They do not pay any attention to us. I give them the killer stare (the killer stare is a family specialty, my dad is the master; I am only the pupil...). To no avail. JF walks by and I ask him to come stand by us. 30 seconds later, a rep ask him if he wants to try a bike. You could see the steam coming out of my ears (and it was NOT from the heat). You see, as a small woman, I am used to being ignored, to not be seen, but it still triggers me incredibly. I remember having that epiphany, at 10, standing among a bunch of people in an ice cream parlor, holding my 2 dollar bill neatly folded in my hand. Waiting. But the two persons making the cones were never paying attention to me, they kept making eye contact with the other (taller) people around me. I turned around and left and went to get my dad who was waiting for me in the car. As soon as he walked in, we got served. So Saturday morning, I couldn't be that person for my 10 yo girl. Because I am short. And because I am a woman. Good thing I am not a young hot head anymore, because I would have turned around and left... and would never have ridden the bike that changed it all.

You see, Niner, as their name suggests only makes 29 inch wheel bikes. As you might or might not know, 29 inch wheels have been the thing for the last few years (instead of the standard 26 inch wheels) and now, many companies started making 27.5 inches. The thing is, most people told me that 29ers are not for small persons, so they were not on my radar, but Niner only makes a few models of 29 inch bikes. Or as the rep condescendly told me when I brought the bike back: contrary to the other brands, we make the wheels and adapt the frames to our wheels, that's why the XS and S bikes feel so right even with such big wheels.

I could not stop smiling the whole ride! I could ride everything and felt completely in control. I could climb hills like never before and had a BLAST. It was like nothing I had experienced before... And now, I want that bike. No, I *need* that bike to feel safe and in control. Mmmm... Now, I get why they do these demos. When you make something really well, you don't need to spend much in marketing: you just get people to try your product. They'll be convinced. Too bad I can't afford it... 

We are spending our last week in Tucson (after more than 2 months!) with the Liske family. Saturday night, Antonio invited us all at his place for a last dinner. He prepared a feast of delicious homemade tacos that we ate outside. As always, it's bittersweet to leave a place that has been home for a few months and especially people that you love. The good thing is that we will likely be back next year!

Orienteering in Catalina State Park and the Santa Cruz bikes demo

Second control: punched!

It was hot. 

Grass! Shade! I'm not moving from here.

JF finished (his much longer and harder) course before us and came to join us for the last few controls.

Almost there!

1st and 2nd place went to the Yukon!!! And he thought he would be rusty!

Best post-race food!

Best post-race activity!

Digging contest!

We went to spend Saturday evening with this cutie and her family (Karl's sister's family), sat outside and watched the full moon rise over the Catalinas and washed our (very, very dirty) climbing ropes in their bathtub.

On Sunday, Santa Cruz organized a demo from 9 to 3 pm during which we could try any of their bikes (fully adjusted) for free. We had a blast! Now, I understand why these bikes sell for $5,000 to $8,000... It's a completely different category. We did not get to try any this fall when we visited the Santa Cruz headquarters. After the ride Mathilde said: Mom, that's what I want for Christmas. Only that. No Lego. Well, of course!

Bonfires. Almost nightly.

Friday night, JF taught the kids how to read the map and use the compass for orienteering.

JF discovered orienteering when we lived in Toronto in 2002. He was doing adventure races and met with a fun group of athletes that he ran with weekly (orienteering is part of many adventure races. Then, we moved to the Yukon, he found out that there was a very active club and really got into it (and became vice-president from 2005 to 2008). Every time we go back to the Yukon, he tries to get the girls to participate in this sport that he loves (last year, unfortunately, the meets were at the same time as their mountain bike class). The girls did their first meet in 2010 (they were so tiny!)

Needless to say, when we found out there was a week long series of races in Tucson, we decided to go check it out. Orienteering in the desert is quite different than in the North. Granted, there are no bugs, but the vegetation is much more aggressive... JF's legs were so scratched after his race! You should have seen him grimaced when he soaked his legs in the cold river!

 

Rock climbing in Cochise Stronghold, AZ

When we first arrived at the foothill of the Stongholds, we felt like we just stepped in the African Serengeti. There were no more cacti, just tall dry grass, mesquite and sycamore trees and beautiful mountains. We expected to camp in a big open dusty parking lot with lots of other climbers, but instead, we stumbled upon a little camping spot, perfect for our two families, a mere 3 minute walk from the climbing walls. We popped the Westy's top, pitched the tents under the trees (we hadn't seen tall trees like that in months! We were exstatic!) and called it home for the weekend!

Java looked just like a dingo in this tall dry grass!

The beautiful 3 min approach walk to Sweet rock crag.

These 2 Mr. Muscles brought their girlfriends rock climbing for the first time on Valentine's Day. That cute Eastern European blond girl was pretty stressed out, but played along. The guys didn't even explained to her how to come down (that's the first thing you practice, especially outside) and the poor girl panicked 3/4 up the route (there routes are high!) and could not come down. Jen was climbing the route right beside her and walked her through it, in her usual comforting and compassionate way. When they say something make or break a relationship... well, this guy might not have had the Valentine's night he expected...!

Crag dogs are perfect for rests between climbs.

Climbing can be such a mental game. I'm so glad Jen can help Aïsha work through her fears when they come up. She truly is a second mom to my girls.

Hard-working hands.

This amazing woman turns 40 this week and this incredible weekend was how she wanted to celebrate. It could not have been more perfect. We had permasmiles in our faces at all times, constantly repeating to ourselves what a great life we have created for ourselves. 

There were lots of very dry cow dung around our camp and we used it as fire starter. The kids thought it was pretty funny, but they quickly understood why many people do this across the world. Cheap and efficient fuel!

Java thought that collecting cow dung was a pretty fun game.

Wipe shower! We gave the kids 2 wipes each and told them to bring them back only when they were black!

Mission accomplished!

I feel so fortunate to share this life on the road with this incredible woman (and her family that I love deeply). She is such an inspiration for all of us. It was her first time back on the rock since her fall in Joshua Tree, and she had to work hard to stay focused on her love for rock climbing. She is such an exemple of courage, strength and perseverance.

After one hard climb, she told Aïsha: When you do something that scares you, your're not afraid, you're brave. Who wouldn't want such an incredible woman in their life!

Happy 40th my dear, dear friend! I am a better person for growing at your side. To 40 more years of adventures, laughter and happiness!

Bacon-themed post on the joy of inertia

Hike up Cat Mountain. It felt like we hadn't hiked in ages... With all the biking and rock climbing, we had forgotten how much we liked hiking too! How much more contemplative it is than biking... especially in the desert with all the cacti (no contemplation allowed!).

We went to one of the many tents of the Rock and Gem Show, the biggest in North America. Here Aïsha spent a lot of time touching and admiring her favorite stone, Malachite. We ended up talking for quite a while with the owner of the booth, in French (he was from Congo) and the Malachite came straight from there!

This guy spent a good 10 minutes telling the girls about different fossils (here shark teeth) and showed them a black diamond ring selling for $16,500!

The man was grilling bacon-wrapped chicken... We might buy bacon only once every 2-3 years, but when we do, we eat it in style!

Yes, we are still in Tucson. We renewed our rock gym membership for February. The BLM where we *live* feels like home now. The hippies drumming and fire hoola-hooping in the distance, our closer neighbors made-up orchestra of guitar and violin playing at all time of day and night. Even the dogs know each other now! We've had many communal bonfire nights, lots of great conversations and good laughs.

We know most of the regulars at the gym now. It feels good to be able to work on the same routes over and over, to feel ourselves getting stronger and getting some technique in. We are pretty excited to go spend the weekend at a beautiful rock climbing spot in our tents and Westy (real camping!) to celebrate Jen's 40th birthday. 

I am not in this space that often lately, but you can find me almost daily on Instagram or on Facebook (and no, I don't post the same thing in both places).

The Estrella Hedgehog Hustle - A mountain bike race in Phoenix, AZ

An Airstream turned into a coffee shop was selling local coffee on site.

Antonio (blue and green) at the start of the race.

SS for single speed (one gear)... or die hard that likes to suffer!

Can you feel the pain?

And the relief!

This guy glued his gel cubes straight on his bike frame for easy access... Not sure I want to know how he got them to stick there or how cruncry they were after a few laps in the desert dust...

Jason at the Finish! 1st place in the Rock Crushers! 

Diedra was racing too! So inspiring to see her on the course!

Some of the Fat Bike guys were pretty fun to watch!

Many people walked their bike to the finish line - or abandoned - because of the numerous flats. This guy jogged to the finish line with his bike on his back since his chain got jammed and his derailler broke...

Diedra at the Finish! 8th position even if she lost 3 min putting her chain back on. You rock, girl!

Diedra and Jason's sons were also racing. Jason was their support for the race. Here he is offering water to Charlie.

Cna you see the pride in these two faces? Charlie had an awesome race and finished 2nd. It was his first podium!

Nothing compares to the energy of a race. The palpable excitement and nervousness before the start, the exhaustion, the pride, the frustration, the satisfaction post-race... Just being there and soaking it up feels great. And that's exactly what JF did. Our friend Antonio was racing, as well as the Liske family that we met a month ago in Tucson.

JF and Antonio tried the technical loop on Friday (the day before the race) and realized it would be no easy feat. In his category (Single Speed), Antonio had to do two long loops (9.5 mile per loop) and two technical loops (4.7 miles per loop). JF was Antonio's support for the race. 

The Hedgehog Hustle is the second race of the MBAA series. The ambiance was great and it was fun to see all the categories. We are even thinking of doing the race next year with the kids (I'd likely sell energy balls and other healthy goodies, take pictures and cheer them on the side, races are not my thing).

On the exchange rate and living frugally on the road

Living frugally also means learning to do your own bike (and bus!) mechanics!

JF was teaching us how to change a flat tire... because it happens a lot in the desert!

At the Discount Grocery, all the Annies's crackers and cookies, as well as the Back to Nature ones were 0.99 cent/box, the Stacey's pita chips bags were 0.59 cents, the kalamata olives (good till 2018!) were $2.39, the Bear Naked Granola were $1.49... Sweet, sweet deal to feed our growing girls healthy and filling food at a decent price!

These bars were all 0.25 cents each! The jerky packs were $1 each, the Justin Almond butter pouches were 0.39 cents and the Tom's of Maine toothpaste was $1.49!

The Canadian dollar is plummeting and the exchange rate is terrible (1.51 as I write)... That means that if my grocery bill is 100$, I actually pay $150... Ouch! We rarely pay for campgrounds (and usually prefer BLM lands), but now, we truly cannot afford them (a $30 night would cost us $45... No way!). 

Our biggest expense has always been our grocery bills. With active growing girls, we needed to find a way to cut down on these bills. We very rarely eat out, but we like good food. Isabelle started researching discount groceries and found some awesome places. Here in Tucson, we have found Market on the Move where you can get 60 lbs of fruits and veggies for $10! It changes every week, but it's all local fresh stuff. This week, we had 60 oranges, 2 grapefruits, 25 tomatillos and 6 poblano peppers in our box. No need to sign up in advance, just show up between 8 am and 1 pm on Wednesday. And the best part: it's a block away from the Rock Gym!

Combine that to a discount grocery where they sell expired dried goods (yes, this is legal and most items are only a few months past the expired date) and you cut your grocery bill in two! The trick is to Google "expired or dented groceries" and the town where you are to find these places. Mexican grocery stores also have great prices (and usually much less additives than American products). I don't need to buy expensive organic canned beans to avoid BHT or other nasties that give me a migraine: most Mexican canned beans are only beans, salt and water. Papayas are super cheap there too, as well as homemade tortillas.

We get a lot of our clothes from thrift stores and even found a store here that will give us some money back for the clothes we bring in (instead of having to wait for them to sell them, which doesn't work when you move every two weeks...) or a credit to use in the store: a great way to turn old clothes into new ones without any money exchange. What they do not take, we bring to a park near the rock gym where there is a lot of homeless people. We have left men tennis shoes, pants, fleece and other useful piece of clothings in the parking lot.

Jen also cut everybody's hair this weekend. She is very good and it is one less expense!
Before going to a museum or restaurant, we look for Groupons, but we mostly focus on free outdoor activities. The Rock Gym turned out to be such a great investment, especially since our water heating system is not working right now and we can all shower for free at the gym. You do the math: $115 for the month for the 5 of us, we are there 3-4 days/week and all shower 2-3 times a week there.

The positive side of the crazy exchange rate is that the gas prices are incredibly low. We usually use the Gas Buddy app to find the cheapest place to fill up, but the best way to save on gas is still to not drive much and stay in one place longer, exactly what we are doing now! And well, driving slow, which is a no brainer when you have two old buses... This way, you also save on speed tickets!

Laundry is about $30/month (so $45 for us right now...), so we go to the cheap (sometimes a little sketchy) laudromats. You know you've hit the jackpot when the change guy is behind a cell-like area and the only (old) TV showcases old murder stories for the mid 90's...

I'd love to hear about how you live frugally. Any tips or ideas are more than welcomed!
 

Saguaro National Park

I didn't take my camera out once this week. That's what happens when we stay in one place for a while: the inspiration goes away. There are just so many ways you can photograph a cactus, a desert sunset around camp... and a rock climbing gym. These are pictures taken by my friend Isabelle when she went to Saguaro National Park with Mathilde and Aïsha this weekend while I worked on my contracts. Meanwhile, Mara and JF went moutain biking and Mara fell into a cactus... Poor Mara! 

We spent a lot of time around the bonfire with old and new friends. We met an awesome young couple traveling in a waste veggie oil (WVO) truck and are pulling a really cool trailer they built and spend some good time chatting with them around camp. 

There was also a Coke and mentos volcano experiment, a massive bus clean-up, lots of laundry and a gorgeous full moon rise.

Tonight is our last dinner with Isabelle and Martin before they head to Texas for a month. We are looking forward to spend more time with them in Utah in the Spring.