McDowell Meltdown - Their first Mountain Bike race

Bike prep.

JF's start (in blue in the middle at the back) in the Rock Crushers category.

Antonio was racing in the Single Speed Expert category. Smile through pain!

Jason was also racing in the Single Speed Expert category. One more sports' loop to go!

JF with his it's-finally-over-face!

There was a little jump park and pump track where the kids played all weekend.

Antonio at the finish line. 

Diedra had a great race too!

Yeah, Diedra!

Getting ready for her race.

Game face on.

And it's a start!

The Liske boys' start.

Brothers side by side.

Someone was happy to finish right behind his big brother (and to get a third position!).

This girl was all smiles for the 3 loops of her course!

Keep smiling!

Race to the finish line with a boy in the same age category!

JF and Mara decided to register for the McDowell Meltdown a week before the race, just for the fun of it. They hadn't trained for a race, but had heard it was a fun course and wanted to give it a try. JF has done many trail running races, orienteering and adventure races, but never did an XC mountain bike race. 

When we saw all the teams set-up with matching race gear and the general seriousness of the event, we realized it was more than *just a friendly race*. There were over 850 participants and it ended up being the busiest event the Mountain Bike Association of Arizona (MBAA) had seen in a long time. 

Mara finished 5th in the 13-14 yo girls (over 14 girls), which was very good for a girl that was doing it just for fun! She actually was faster than almost half the boys in the same age category!

JF finished 10th in his category, which was also pretty remarkable given he didn't train for a race.

The MBAA organizes a series of 6 races every year and we might attend another one in a few weeks.

It was great to reconnect with friends we hadn't seen since last summer, share a few meals (and the race jitters!) and ride with them. The mountain bike trails at McDowell Mountain Regional Park are simply amazing and there are over 200 miles of trails that are accessible from there. Too bad the camping is so expensive ($30/night). There is no boondocking in the whole Phoenix area (except for Casino Parking Lots) that we know of (drop me a line in the comments if you do!), so it's a major bummer because we would have loved to spend more time there.

Our little Tucson routine

Our friends from Wisconsin came for a week during their Holidays! Of course, we went biking together!

Stout's first bike ride!

A very sweet gift from our little Ubach friends!

Mathilde New Year's cupcakes!

Eddy serenading us around the bonfire.

Life at the BLM.

Climbing on Mount Lemmon, Crags Against Humanity Sector.

Aïsha leading her first route.

Tucson is our winter trip half-way point and we tend to stop here longer and slow down. We just love how easy it is to be active here. Once again this year, we took a rock climbing gym membership at Rocks and Ropes (which includes the Bloc too, a bouldering gym), where we go about 3 times a week to climb and shower. We alternate a climbing day with a biking day since there are so many bike trails nearby. It's a pretty good routine. We try to go climb outside at Mount Lemmon on the weekends when possible (it's about an hour drive from the BLM where we camp). What's a BLM you might wonder? It's a public land where we can camp for free. In Tucson, the Snyder Hill BLM is located only 20 minutes from downtown Tucson (unlike most other BLMs in the US that are far from big cities and where the 14 day limit stay in enforced). The Snyder Hill BLM has a bit of a Slab City vibe. There are some semi-permanent residents, some big rigs that stay only a few days and pretty much everything in between. Let's just say it seems to attract what we call in the Yukon, the colorful 5 %...  You can often hear someone playing drum or strumming his guitar in the distance. If you're lucky like us, a circus couple sets up nearby with an aerial silk contraption and you can watch them practice this beautiful skill... Then, there's John, who's been our neighbor for a few weeks that pretend he worked on a set with Al Pacino and went to a party with Johnny Depp... There's Sid with his 16 years old dog who comes by when JF is working on a bike to chat... and chat some more (and his wife that keeps bringing us odd things for the girls). There's the man who sleeps in a tent and leaves every morning with a dress suit for work. And there was the crazy lady on the hill, who spent her days sitting cross-legged on top of Snyder Hill, watching over us and yelling ugly things to passerby's... until she lost it and started knocking on all the rigs' doors asking people to give her her dog back... too many Rainbows will do that to you...

Tucson feels like a second home (or maybe more like a fifth home...) and here are a few of our favorite digs and some practical info if you end up in this neck of the desert...

EAT : The best taco place in town is a little hole in the wall called Pico De Gallo; 3 incredible fish tacos (with homemade corn tortilla) for under $6. Yes, please. Only 8 minute from the rock gym!

Another place that should not be missed is Tucson Tamales (2 locations); 2 Santa Fe tamales (or Chipotle beef, our favorites!) with 2 sides of your choice (don't miss their mexican slaw) for under $8! You can also buy their tamales frozen to warm up at home!

For a unique experience (and a very cheap meal), go to Govinda Natural Food at the local Ashram. All you can eat vegetarian buffet (Tuesday is Indian Night, Wednesday and Thursday are vegan nights) with homemade papadum, delicious salad with sprouts and homecooked food ($11 for adults, $5 for kids (10-12 yo), $4 for 7-9 yo and $3 for 4-6 yo). And you can eat outside in their beautiful enclosed yard.

GROCERY : McGary's Discount Grocery (a few blocks from the Ashram) has awesome deals on expired/dented food items. Think 8 Luna Bars for $1, Kettle Chips bags for $1, Natural Krave Jerky bags for $1, cereal boxes at 3 for $5, Back to Nature nut mixes, cookies, crackers, etc for a fraction of the price, natural lotions and shampoos... even natural dog treats and recycled toilet paper at ridiculous prices. As long as you don't mind the loud Christian music blasting through the store and the near-paranoiac attitude of the store owner about having things stolen and children running down the aisles you'll love this place as much as we do.

Another great way to save money on food in Tucson is through The Club 3000 (Market on the Move). Every week you can get 60 lbs of fruits for $10 on Wednesday from 9 am to 1 pm (sometimes it's every day of the week). The content varies every week (citrus, peppers, tomatoes, squash, eggs, etc.). The best place to be kept informed is their Facebook page.

For a dirt cheap grocery store, we love Food City (a few locations in Tucson). Good ripe fruits for cheap directly from Mexico, dairies and eggs for very cheap, and great homemade nachos, taco shells and tortillas.

For good quality natural food at a decent price, we love Sprouts (a few locations in town). Great coffee and home brand products.

LAUNDRY : For the full hole-in-the-wall laudromat experience, go to Superior Cleaner (10 min from the BLM, just by Food City!). The cheapest in town (bonus soap operas in Spanish blasting on the TVs). They even provide free Wifi. 

If you rather pay more and have a clean brick-wall and lime green wall laudromat with the UofA hipsters, go to Wildcat Laudry

DUMP AND FILL : Free at the Giant gas station on the corner of Valencia and Kolb, but it's pretty far from the BLM. We go to Western Way RV Resort (10 min from BLM) for $10.

RECYCLING : There is a big recycling station at the entrance of John F. Kennedy Park, right behind the Mission Public Library (free wifi) at the corner of Ajo Way and Mission.
 


 

El Campo: a van community meet-up

Two Wanderlodges! 

Les 4 Farfelus showed the kids how to make really cool macramé bracelets.

Some serious Adventure Mobiles!

There were over 90 vans that came to El Campo, from the highly customized Disney Van to the authentically restored VW Split,  to pretty much everything in between... 

...and some whose name you just can’t forget!

When was the last time you hugged a horse while still in your pyjama?

The last time we went to a van meet-up was about 15 years ago in Tadoussac, Québec, with our old VW '77 Bus. I was honestly a bit reluctant to go this weekend, but I really liked Julien and what he was doing with Go-Van, so decided to go. Most meets are organized by van types, but what Julien wanted to create was an event based on the lifestyle more than on the brand. And he sure succeeded! 

It was the same friendly atmosphere we remembered, a bunch of people who are passionate about their van and the freedom that comes with it, be it for fulltime living or weekend adventures. It was really exciting to meet people we have been following online for years, like Les 4 Farfelus (from France) and Bodeswell (from California), Simon (also on Instagram), and Marie and Francis who had just bought a Wanderlodge after reading an interview Cindy from Les 4 Farfelus did with us a while ago! It sure is a small world!

There were kids everywhere mingling with each other, playing by the river, feeding fresh grass to the horses, playing cards and tag and hide and seek. Kids being kids.

There was a best van modification contest (the guy that won had made a laundry chute in his Westy!), a Westfalia CV joint assembly contest to which JF participated and a photo contest (that I won!).r

The event was held in the Vallée-Bras-du-Nord, an awesome outdoor destination. We went to check out some of the mountain bike trails and understood why they are considered among the best in Quebec! We had never seen such manucured trails in our life (but we also never had to pay $40 to bike as a family for a day!). But with trails named Maple Butter, what’s not to like!

Being lulled to sleep in the bus by a bunch of people singing French Canadian songs by the bonfire was just the cultural bath I needed! Bodeswell sure had the full authentic Quebec experience!

We were surprise to see how curious people were about our bus, about our story. It felt like we touched some people by the choices we made. And that always feels pretty awesome.

Some people were dreading the return to normal life after such a fun weekend. And I get it. I used to be one of them. Now, we’re lucky enough to call this our normal life.

 

 

And South we go...

Our last few weeks in the Yukon were a series of awesome dinners and shared moments with friends.

These friendships that survive the distance mean so much to all of us.

A last evening at our dear friend Josée's.

Coloring at night in the bus.

Last sunset on the Alaska Highway.

Following a Westy from Argentina.

We stopped at Boya Lake on the Stewart-Cassiar Highway for a little hike.

And pick berries, of course!

It was the first time our California friends saw a beaver dam! 

We stopped for 4 days in Burns Lake to ride at Boer Mountain. It rained the whole time, so that's pretty much the only biking picture I took... You might remember our epic adventures here last year! Day 1 is here, then Day 2 (the shit hits the fan), Day 3, Day 4 and there are more posts on that beautiful place (just click Newer at the bottom of the posts)!

Medicine making with arnica, yarrow, fireweed and rosehips and dutch oven apple crips with freshly picked thimbleberries and blueberries.

Prosciutto and sage leaves wrapped chicken and potatoes over the fire.

Lots and lots of dirty laundry. We rode in the mud for 3 days!

Diedra found out that the thrift store was doing a 5$/bag of clothes week. The kids were creating a play, so it was perfect! They are so creative!

The sun came out for 30 minutes and we could litterally see the earth exhale.

Kager Lake, right by the campsites at Boer Mountain. There are tent campsites all around the lake accessible through a fun bike trail. During our time there, they were doing controlled burns all around the lake and it was pretty surreal to come across these big campfires every 200 meters as we picked berries in the rain! They kept us warm!

Transitions. Every parenting book I read when the girls were little had a chapter on that. Every parent knows all too well the meltdowns that followed the announcement that we had to move on to something different, be it jumping in the car to go visit grandma or wash hands before dinner... In the Waldorf world, we had little transition songs for each of these moments, imaginative stories of foxes chasing little mice in the bedroom for storytime... It’s not easy to leave behind something that felt good and comfortable, something you were engrossed in and could keep on doing. That’s how it felt to leave the Yukon. We weren’t sad per se, but we could have stayed a little longer (in a warm house, not in the bus!). Most places we leave feel like that after a while, Tucson, Moab, Virgin... Our life is a series of transitions, of hellos and goodbyes and see-you-laters. An interesting choice for a girl that had lots of separation anxiety as a child... But, hey, I’ve always been the kind to grab the bull by the horns!

Or rather, I’ve always had that pull to explore, to get out of my comfort zone. Leaving for a year in Italy at 17, attempting to hike the GR20 in Corsica at 21, a little underprepared... Hitting the road in an old bus we had just bought! It’s not an adventure if there’s not a bit (or a lot!) of unknown in it, right?

A weekend of riding and eating (and blueberry picking) in Carcross, Yukon

Calling the teams for the last day of riding of the season, on Montana Mountain, in Carcross.

Waiting to find out in which team she will be...

Meanwhile, the adults are riding!

Endind a perfect biking day at Benett Lake!

Ben even caught a fish!

Braised fennel. Yum!

Covering the potatoes with moss to keep them from drying out.

Peach and cranberry cake in the dutch oven

The trick is to have a 3 to 1 ratio of coals (3 on top, 1 at the bottom) and to have the bottom on a trivet or a rack so it is not sitting on the coals.

Apple crisp in the dutch oven. Success!!

Beautiful light on Lake Bennett.

Picking blueberries in Fraser, BC (45 min from Carcross towards Alaska).

Mossberries

Early blueberry (aka blue huckleberry or Vaccinium ovalifolium) on the left, dwarf blueberries on the right (Vaccinium caespitosum)

Do you understand why we call huckleberries "black mouth" in French (gueules noires)??

Fall is definetely here. The willow and alder leaves are turning yellow, the fireweed are a rainbow of green to dark red, often on the same plant, and the berries are incredibly abundant!

Riding on Montana Mountain in the fall light is nothing short of magical: the way the light filters through the trembling aspens and the glowing green mossy trails... It feels like such a treat to be part of it all. 

As Rachel who lives in the Colorado mountains says it so beautifully: 

"Here is a place where weather is an animal that will never be tamed.

Here, being human feels like just the right size, appropriately small amongst the stout spruce and fir trees, and the ancient, storytelling rocks. For a brief, wondrous time you may find your desires shrink into something manageable, a small parcel that you can put in your pocket and examine later.

Here, the flavors of happiness may begin to look different, less about accomplishments and acquisitions, and more about the privilege of walking this beloved earth. You may allow yourself to be schooled by the resident teachers, the living things who seek only what they need. Maybe life need not be so complicated."

An incredible weekend in Carcross, Yukon (overnight hike + bike)

We went just below that snow patch that we can see higher up in the middle.

Beautiful arnica flowers everywhere on the trail!

Our little village!

The beautiful beach in Carcross along Lake Bennett.

We wanted to do one overnight hike before leaving on our 5 day/4 nights hike on the Chilkoot trail next week. We decided to combine a bike ride on the awesome trails of Montana mountain in Carcross (45 min from Whitehorse) with a hike up Sam McGee/Mountain Hero trail. This trail was originally made to service the tramway built in 1905 by Sam McGee for a silver mining operation. There are many remnants of the tramway and mining artifacts along the trail.

When we arrived in the alpine after a slow 3 hour climb in the forest, we quickly found a great spot to set camp. The view from the top is fantastic, with Windy Arm of Tagish Lake below, and all of the surrounding mountains. We all sat in silence, in awe of this incredible wild land, thankful for it all. And thankful for all this amazing nature, from the scraggly moss I used to scrub the pots and dishes in the freezing creek, to the beautiful arnica we collected to make a healing oil for our sore muscles, the deliciously sweet wild rose petals we ate along the way and the chewed up yarrow leaves we put in Mathilde’s nose to stop a nose bleed.

And yes, it was every bit as idyllic as it looks... Except maybe for the sleeping part, because, well, sleeping in a tent on a ridge over the tree line 3 days before summer solstice is a challenge! Let’s just say that I could read my book at 2 am without a headlamp… And there was the full moon... And by 6:30, we were dying in the tents because the sun was so hot! Oh my beautiful Yukon!

*Photo note: these pictures have all been taken with my phone (a Samsung Galaxy S7) with the Camera FV-5 app and imported into DXO Optics Pro (a photo enhancement software that I LOVE). I’m pretty happy with the result! It’s nothing like my Nikon, but it works.

Where to ride in Moab and more practical infos

Klonzo North - Cross Canyon trail

Moab Brands (Bar M) 

Klonzo South - Carousel

Klonzo South - half-way throuh Roller Coaster, a really fun trail.

Jennifer made sure the girls got to celebrate their birthday again as soon as we got back together!

When you tell people that you are going to Moab to ride, almost all of them will talk to you about The Whole Enchilada (28 miles with 7000 feet of downhill, it is an epic whole day adventure for strong, skilled riders only - with a shuttle - and the top part is only open in the summer, the last part is the famous Porcupine Rim that can also be ridden separately). Or they talk about Slickrock (10.6 miles of pure slickrock goodness, black, pretty steep and very physical). Of course, these trails are epic in their own ways, but there is so much more in Moab! First, install the Trailforks app on your phone (MTB project is missing a part of the Klonzo trail system), it will come in very handy to navigate your way through all the trail systems around town. Then, come find a spot on Willow Spring Road to camp (14 day BLM, free) and enjoy the view! There are tons of pull-outs (some close to the roads, others further away (we suggest you find a far away one since there is quite a bit of trafic on that dirt road (especially on Fri-Sat-Sun) and it can get pretty dusty (and loud since half the crowd is here to do some four-wheeling on some other trails). 

After 3 times visiting Moab for a few weeks, here's what we can tell you about our favorite trails (by trail systems):

Klonzo (sometimes included in the Sovereign network) : This is a newish trail system with some great trails.
Klonzo North: Start with Dunestone (super fun combo of slickrock and dirt) and up Secret Passage, Vertigo (some black sections), Wahoo and down Borderline (all blue except for parts of Vertigo. We heard Gravitron is a fun black, but didn't get to do it. 

Klonzo South: Lots of easy fun ones for beginners (Hot Dog + Midway and the whole Carousel area for some slickrock introduction), as well as some good blue ones (Roller Coaster, The Edge, Zoltar) and a great black one (Houdini) that is mostly slickrock with not much elevation.

Horsethief: This is a new sector (also sometimes included or confused with Navajo Rocks). Combine the Mustang Loop (blue) with Wildcat (blue), Hildalgo (blue) and Whirlwind (optional) for a super fun ride. Just know that you go down for a while first and you have to climb back up... Make sure to do Getaway (blue) and Bull Run (black and blue sections, some sections near cliff edges) which is the beginning of Mag 7, a single-track composed of 7 trails that link the upper and lower ends of Gemini Bridges Road and that can be ridden as a point-to-point with a shuttle.

Navajo Rocks: Only fun trails! Do the big blue loop or only half of it (Ramblin and Rocky Tops) and come back for the other half (Big Mesa/Big Lonely)!

Moab Brands (aka Bar M): Warm  up on EZ and Lazy (super fun greens) and go do North 40 (blue), it's our favorite trail there. Circle-O is supposedly a fun black that we didn't have time to ride. Deadman's Ridge is a much more technical (rocky and bumpy) black that you can skip...

Klondike Bluffs: Don't miss Dino Flow (blue) and Alaska (if you are up for a climb, the view is totally worth it). For Dino Flow, you might want to consider doing a shuttle (leave a car at the Klondike South parking lot and start at the Dino Tracks parking lot). If you're up for a climb and do not want to do a shuttle, you can park at the Dino Tracks parking lot (don't park at the first parking lot by the highway, you'll have to ride a boring 5 miles on a dirt road to reach the trailhead), go up Homer and Alaska (blue) and down Mega steps (black). You'll even find dinosaur tracks along the way! You can then take Dino flow back to the parking lot. If you want to do Dino Flow all the way without a shuttle, park at the Dino Tracks parking lot, ride Dino Flow all the way down and come back up Jurassic, Jasper East and Midline (all green) for an easy uptrack, or take Baby Steps (blue) if you still have some juice left.

This comment about this sector made me giggle: The Klondike Bluffs Trail is perfect for your teenage son who fancies himself a racer, if you are worried he might kill himself on the Moab Slickrock Trail, which is certainly possible (from here).
And a good reminder: On a sad note, the dinosaur tracks in the Klondike Bluffs area are being destroyed by people who, with no skill or education, are trying to make molds of the prints to take home. We have seen everything from plaster of paris to spray foam. Needless to say, if people do not know how to make molds safely (using a plastic wrap to protect the track), then they probably should be shot on site before they mess this area up for the true amateur paleontologists. Leaving plaster or plastic stuck to the inside of a track is only one small step away from trying to crack the tracks out of the sandstone. Please do not stand on or mar the tracks in any way.

Amasa Back: For the very strong/expert riders only, sounds like Captain Ahab is not to be missed!

For a fun challenge, try Pipe Dream (black trail) located in town and try to do it without setting a foot down!

The Bartlett Wash (aka The Bartlett Bowl) seems like a pretty unique slickrock feature! Check out "The Toilet Bowl" here.

Here's a great site that list all the trails in the area.

Moab is a pretty cute little town that is pretty busy during high season (April to October, but busier during Spring and Fall, summers are hot!). You'll never see so many awesome bikes in such a high concentration! There are lots of bike shops in Moab, but we recommend Chili Pepper and The Moab Cyclery

Just know that everything is a little more pricey in Moab. There are lots of rental bikes on sale at the end of the season (November), but most of the regular sizes are so beaten up you really want to get such bikes. Four years ago, I got a really good deal on a XS bike that barely got out during the season. So, unless you are an XS or an XL, I would pass on the rental bike sales. If you need to rent a bike while in Moab, do a weekly rental (around $300/$350), which is much cheaper than daily ($80/$90).

As for food, you best one spot shop is the City Market (where most people shop with muddy legs and bike protections on). We really like the little health food coop called Moonflower. They sell delicious local greens and produce at decent prices. The rest is quite pricey.

Milt's Stop and Eat is an institution in Moab and every night of the week (except Monday when it's closed), you can expect to wait a good 30 min to get your burger, fries and shake, sitting outside among other bleeding and dirty riders. We make a point of eating here at least once when in Moab, but we have to say that it seems to have lost some of its quality. Our friend Karl had to bring back his large fries because there truly was only a handful of fries in there. They apologized and gave him a new order for free. Our fries were quite pale and undercooked and the avocado melt... didn't contain any avocado. The burgers were good, but not as juicy as they used to. Our chocolate-vanilla malt was as good as usual though.

Four our girls' night out, we went to the Spoke and liked their food (gluten-free bun option for their great burgers), good drinks, homemade ice cream and one of the nicest ambiance in town.

The boys went to the Atomic Loung/Moab Burger and found the food really good (great fries, homemade bacon, delicious burgers), but the atmosphere kind of so-so.

Our friends hit the Moab Brewery and didn't think much of it. The food is average and the beer is well, Utah beer. So if you like 4% beer, go for it, otherwise, forget it.

Grab and go: Try the Quesadilla Mobila. You can't miss this yellow truck. A bit pricey (like everything else in Moab), but it hits the spot.

Coffee. Try the Eklecticafé, nice ambiance, good coffee, vegan and gluten-free options. For a grab and go delicious coffee (or beans $13/lb), hit Moab Coffee Roaster, by the post office and almost in front of the health food coop Moonflower.

As for camping, there's plenty of options. There are a few big and crowded RV park in town, but the largest and most common place to camp is up at Sand Flats Recreation Area, a 10-minute drive up above town. Sand Flats road is the home of the Slickrock trail, and Porcupine Rim trail. There are over 120 campsites up and down the dirt road that runs through the recreation area. Campsites have pit toilets but no water. There's a fee to use the recreation area, and you pay at an entrance gate as you drive into the area. The Internet cell connexion is not great there.

We much prefer boondocking for free on the BLM land on Willow Springs Road, 12 miles North of town. It's closer to most of the trail systems we like, the view is amazing (view of the La Sal Mountains and Arches National Park from our bedroom!), but it's a bit of a longer drive to town (20 min), but the connexion is better here. Still, you might need a booster to get good 4G.

For laundry, you can choose between the gringo laudromat (uber clean and more expensive), conveniently located beside the City Market and the Moab Cyclery, so you can shop while you laundry dries and the locals' laundromat (Moab Speedqueen Laundromat, no website, of course), located in the same strip mall as the Chili Pepper bike shop and another smaller and more expensive grocery store (Village Market). No wifi on the premises, but go sit in the grass outside in the La Quinta Hotel and get their signal. There are a few more that I didn't check (Wet Spot, close to Main and Center).

You can go fill your jugs of water with delicious spring water for free inside the Gearheads outdoor store (by the gringo laundromat and the City Market).

Recycling: Moab has probably the most recycling per square miles of any town. There is recycling for everything and a garbage container in the Information Center Parking Lot. There is also some recycling at the Moab Cyclery (no tin). Cardboard recycling between Gearheads and the laundromat. Arches National park has plastic and tin, but not glass.

Showers and pool. You can shower at the Moab Cyclery for $5 or at the Youth Hostel for $3 (Lazy Lizard), and at most campground for $4 to $6. We think that the best deal is the Aquatic Center ($20 per family) where you can enjoy the nice warm pool with a super fun waterslides and diving boards (and clean warm showers that do not run out of warm water!).

Receiving packages : UPS can be shipped to the UPS Customer Center at 1030 Bowling Alley Ln Ste 2, Moab, UT 84532. Pickup times vary so call ahead 435-259-5593
Shipping from any carrier at Canyonland Copy Center (375 S Main St Moab, UT 84532 435-259-8432) There is a fee of $5 per package

Dump and Fill: at the Maverick on the South side of town (free, no purchase required). You can also go to the Slickrock Campground (north side of town, so closer to the BLM) and dump and fill for $5.

Wifi: Library, Information Center, Moab Coffee Roaster, Love Muffin, Eddie McStiff

 

Dead Horse Point State Park, Moab, UT

There are so many awesome trail systems in Moab that you could pretty much ride every day for a month and never do the same trail again... I'll talk more about all of them in a next post, but for this one, I will focus on Dead Horse Point State Park, for no other reason than Isa took lots of good iPhone pictures and that the view is incredible. 

This trail network is probably one of the easiest in the area, but it still offers some fun technical sections and an amazingly rewarding view. Actually, the view is so amazing that it's almost dangerous because you cannot help but look at it while riding! None of the trails is close enough to the rim that it feels scary (no exposure). 

This is one of the only trail network that requires you to pay an entrance fee (since it is in a State Park). It's $10 for a 3 day access. After the ride, drive or ride to the view point at the end of the road, it's 2,000 feet above a gooseneck in the Colorado River. The State Park is right on the edge of Canyonlands National Park. You can also hike the Rim Trail (an hour or two before sunset is the best time!).

If you are planning to go, here are some information about the trails. All the trails start at the end of the Visitor Center Parking Lot (the Visitor Center is at one end, the trails start at the other end). Ride Intrepid to Great Pyramid and the the whole Big Chief loop (stop to eat lunch at the point of Big Chief, then take Crossroads (green). If you still have some energy left, do Whiptail (blue), Twisted Tree (black) and Prickly Pair (blue with black sections) back to the Visitor Center. If not, just come down Prickly Pair. Don't take Raven Roll down (unless you are very tired after Big Chief), it's a very boring green. 

Riding Thunder Mountain, in Panguitch, UT

                                                                               Oops! Road block!

Thunder Mountain Trail is just outside Bryce Canyon National Park. The first section has more climbing than we expected after consulting the MTB project website and less scenic, but the descent among the Red Canyon's hoodoos is a blast as we ride along knife ridges and switchbacks back to the trailhead The last mile is a super fun let-the-brake-go flowy downhill.  The trail is mostly smooth hard pack but has short serious sections of loose, steep, switchbackery madness (probably the reason why it is rated as a black trail, because most of it is truly blue). There aren't much in the way of steps or drops, the technical sections are short and walk-able with the climbing mostly moderate. What makes it harder is that you are riding at over 8000 feet of altitude and you sometimes wish you had an oxygen mask on while climbing.

If possible, ride this trail from the upper trailhead to the lower trailhead, with a car shuttle back. Several sections of the trail are virtually unrideable in the uphill direction.

However, riding the trail as a loop is possible if you ride back up the bike path for 8-9 miles.

Las Vegas Bay Campground, NV

That's the back of our campsite, a long point along the canyon rim. Pretty cool. Awesome for sunrise and sunset watching. Note the chairs in the background. Note that there are no trees to tie the dog. Mara thought it was a good idea to tie him to the black chair. Five minutes later, our Dutch neighbor came frantically knocking on our window screaming: Da dag is ranning dawn da canyon with da chair!!! Ahem.

The Bluff trail, right from the campground.

Let me tell you a bit about my fixation with cups and glasses. We've been making do with thrift store plastic glasses since we are on the road and I really wanted to upgrade to some nice durable stainless steel ones. I used some of my birthday money (thanks Dad and Hélène!) to get 4 tall smoothie glasses, 4 small ones - perfect for a sip of water and wine - (love them!!) and two medium cocktail ones - great for red wine too. I've realized that if I can't live clutter free (an impossible task when you live in a bus with 4 other persons), I at least need to surround myself with some beautiful and useful objects. And looking at these glasses all neatly aligned in the cup holders along the kitchen wall make me so ridiculously happy! Oh, and my story wouldn't be complete without telling you about my favorite pottery mug (a gift from my friend Helen Ann, from her hometown in BC) for my morning triple shot latte and my bilke cup (from my friend Martine, from Rossland, BC, an avid biker) for my afternoon two shot latte (I know this sounds totally coffee snob, but you'd think otherwise if I'd make you one!). And there's also my Jennifer souvenir mug (absent for the picture) for the mornings when I need a 4 shots one or a warm tea at night!

Just walking to the end of our site...

Glory bowl in the making. One of our staple camp recipe.

One of the most dangerous beer there is. So refreshing and delicious! Not your Father's Ginger Ale from Small Town Brewery.

Making Negronis! Yum! It tastes like Italy!

Some bus and bike mechanics, lots of drawing and writing by the canyon, some drink mixing, lots of delicious food cooking outside (and playing cards by the lantern light). That's the right way to start a vacation!

We camped here last year and deemed it the best campground we stayed at (campsite #52). It was only $10/night last year, but it is now $20/night (no services, water and dump onsite, no shower building). It is still a gorgeous place, but with Lake Mead Rec Area BLM right there (free), it felt like a big splurge. Still, having a campsite with your own canyon rim is a pretty cool thing!

We also went back to Bootleg Canyon for a bike ride on my official birthday (I know, I know, bear with me...). I remembered that I hadn't liked that trail network much last year, but thought it might be a matter of experience. Well, it wasn't. I just don't care for loose rock and poorly maintained eroded trails (much worst than last year) with slippery narrow exposed sections... It really wasn't our best ride... And you know what it reminded me? That I have taken to celebrate my birthday over a long period instead of on that one day because historically, since we have had kids, it almost always ended being a really rough day with the girls and a birthday flop. So cheers to a birthday month! And yes, it's over now. You won't hear about it till next year!

Rock climbing at Green Valley Gap

By 11:30 am it became obvious that we had to find a route in the shade since we were litterally cooking on the south facing wall. Good thing we remembered there was a fun chimney to climb down the crag with a nice shady spot beside it to hang out.

Mathilde giving grandma Tybee some love. She is the sweetest dog ever.

It's so nice to be able to park right by the canyon rim and set up the top ropes. The routes are short (30') and nothing extraordinary, but the spot is right by the town, there is no approach walk and the view is really nice. 

Since we only had one day of rock climbing in St. George this year (and since JF cannot lead because of his broken finger), we decided to come back to Green Valley Gap. We knew the place from last year and knew we could easily set up top ropes from the top of the canyon. 

It was fun to have Ching and Jerud with us and we had a fun relaxing day hanging out at this beautiful crag. They even installed a zip line in the *gap* and we could see people sliding down it as we climbed. There is also a mountain bike trail right around the canyon - namely the Zen Trail (black) and the Barrel trails. Isa and Martin came to join us after they rode Bearclaw Poppy. There are so many trails and crags to explore in St. George. We will come back longer next time. There simply doesn't seem to be a good boondocking spot close enough with good signal. If you know one, leave a comment!

 

Guacamole Mesa Trail system, Virgin, UT

This is not a great photo, but it's the only one in which we see the Cinder cone (aka Big Avocado, that gave the name to this place). A cinder Cone is a volcano composed of volcanic cinders or small, rough particles of hardened lava.

Isa holding on to the rock. She loooovvvveess cliffs!

The view on the drive up and down the trailhead.

I kind of wonder why the JEM Trail and Gooseberry Mesa Trails are the must-do trails of this area since Guacamole Mesa seems to have it all in a more compact and more stunning version : fantastic slickrock, awesome singletrack, amazing scenery and big exposure. It's the mesa adjacent to Zion National Park overlooking the Virgin River, but without all the people that you find on JEM or Goose. It’s a mix of undulating open-rock riding plus singletrack through pinion, juniper, and brush. The trail is upper-intermediate in tech requirement, with a short area of advanced tech at the southeast corner of the loop. If you don't usually wear protection, this is the right place to start doing so!

The trail system has been named after the Big Avocado, a perfectly round cinder cone, that has been caused by a volcanic vent blowing out small pieces of molten rock. The trails are named Margarita, Holy Guacamole, Lime Loop, and the more exposed one is called Salt on the Rim. What’s not to like about this place?

The drive up to the trailhead is spectacular, with one side covered in black volcanic rock boulers and the other with red sandstone cliffs.

Oh and we found some petrified wood pieces on the trail! The kids were stocked!

The Hurricane Mountain Bike Festival

Getting ready to ride Gooseberry Mesa

It is quite a funny coincidence that there was a LDS (Latter Day Saints) Homeschool conference in the community center right by the Bike Festival. Every time a rider had to go to the restroom, he/she was greeted by scriptures from the Book of Mormons and images of Saints. The funniest moment was when two girls and I were washing the dirt off our legs in the restrooms, sweaty and in tank tops and shorts, and two well-dressed (and well-covered) ladies walked in with their daughters and gave us a dirty look. What a clash!

Meet Mr. Cru Jones, the mascott of the festival, or festivals I should say, since his owner teaches bike clinics in the mountain bike festivals and brings him with her! He is a rescue malamute pup from Colorado and even has his own Instagram page!

Playing Hangman while waiting for dinner to be ready.

We tried some local beers at the Beer Garden. I really liked the Cutthroat, but the other one was bleh...

Awesome dutch oven cooked meal. I wish I had taken a picture of the pile of dutch ovens covered in charcoals. Only Jerud, Ching and I had Festival tickets, but between the 3 of us, there was enough food to feed JF, Aïsha and Mara (Mathilde was with Martin and Isa). The servings were HUGE!

Saturday and Sunday breakfasts were served at a super cute local coffee shop. We expected a coffee and a muffin type of breakfast, but we got served an awesome complete breakfast on the back terrace. 

First morning was a delicious breakfast burrito with all the fixings, everything homemade. Second day was blueberry buttermilk pancakes, eggs, ham, sausages, bacon, fruits, you name it! And the coffee was very good too. Oh and look at that view! The sun rose on the mountain as we ate...

Getting ready to ride up one more time!

Mara riding the Niner RKT 9 RDO. It was really cool that the girls (and really, all the kids!) could try the bikes I was trying since they were the right size for them too. 

Sunday morning girls' ride!

And the winner is: the Ibis  Mojo 3. The smile says it all.

Mara completely fell in love with the Scott Spark 720!

The Hurricane mountain bike festival was a pretty fun event! Not too big to be pricey and overlwhelming and just big enough to allow me to sample many great bikes. For $55, I got 3 days of unlimited bike rental, a huge Friday night dutch oven cooked meal and two delicious breakfasts at the local coffee shop. And up to 3 shuttles a day to the top of JEM Trail. Talk about a great deal! When you think that renting such bikes for a day goes from $50 to $80! And compared to the upcoming Moab's Outerbike Festival (same thing but with higher shuttles for $175!)

The whole weekend felt like a blur of grab-a-half-bagel-forgotten-by-a-girl-on-the-table-and-a-banana-and-go-ride-more kind of thing. 

Here are the geeky juicy details: 

We went back to Gooseberry Mesa on Friday, where I tested the Pivot and Liv bikes. I had taken the Pivot (429sl), but quickly found it way too big for me even if it was a size small. It felt like biking on high heels! I was glad I ran into Ching on the trail who was pretty unhappy with the Liv Lust bike she was trying because it was too small and compact for her. We switched and were both happier bikers!

On Friday night, I took out the Ibis Mojo 3 with 27.5 plus wheels. It was love at first spin! Even after riding most of the day, I went for a ride after sunset with the girls on the Jem trail to test this awesome machine!

On Saturday morning, I went to get a Scott Spark (27.5 wheels) and had JF drop me higher on the trail so I could ride it down. Five minutes in, I discovered how touchy the brakes were by going over my handle bars on a 5 inch drop... This bike felt like a purebreed race horse, incredibly responsible, very light and nervous. I get why advanced mountain bikers and racers like this bike, but it is too unforgiving for me at this point. Then, I did our usual two-hour loop in Hurricane Cliffs Trail system with the Ibis Mojo 3 and had a big smile on my face the whole time! 

I went back around lunch and got the same Niner I had tested at the Tucson bike demo and had fell in love with (The Jet 9 RDO). I did that same loop again (and yes, I was exhausted by the time I came back) and loved it. However, the frame felt a bit too big (I would need an XS in that brand and model, but they only had a S to demo) and the stand over height was too much for me. 

On Sunday morning, I tried the Niner RKT 9 RDO in XS (the only bike they had in XS to demo) and was glad to be able to compare it with the Jet 9. The stand over height was definitely better, but the cockpit felt too compact (same problem I have with my XS Giant Trance XW1).

So, here's a summary (and my great shoe analogy):

Pivot Mach 429sl: The S frame with 29 in wheels felt way too big for me. I felt I was sitting on top of the bike instead of *inside* the bike. Unfortunately, they don't make XS frames for that model. As I said earlier, it felt like riding on high heels. 

Liv Lust: I didn't care much for that bike since it pretty much felt just like my bike with bigger wheels (27.5 in instead of 26 in). Same too compact cockpit and a very twichy feel. This one felt like a pair of old sneakers that I know but do not like every time I wear them.

Scott Spark 720: As I said earlier, this bike felt like a race horse that I had a hard time taming. To continue with the shoe analogy, this felt like track cleats running shoes: very light, fast and responsive.

Ibis Mojo 3 with 27.5 plus tires: This is a funky looking bike with its big 2.8 in tires, but what a sweet ride this is! I love how the reviewer describes it on Pinkbike:


The bike's Nobby Nic tires are grabbier than a prom date when the lights dim and the slow music comes on.

The red Ibis, with its 2.8'' wide rubber, is more playful and alive than the large majority of bikes with tires that are half an inch skinnier and hundreds of grams lighter. Think Olympic gymnast who kills a large pizza every night and then scores a perfect ten despite it not looking physically possible. You know, don't judge a book by its cover and all that cliché stuff. 
Note that the 2.8'' tires are an inch shorter than the 29er tires. In order to fit 29er tires, the chainstays would have to get longer. So the bottom line is that it's a better 27.5+ bike because it's not also a 29er. 
The Mojo 3 handles like a regular mountain bike - there's no awkwardness or strange gyroscopic effect like you'll find on a true fat bike - and the Ibis scoots up complex and challenging climbs so well that you'll be forgiven for thinking that you're better than you actually are.
 

So the Mojo 3 was like a pair of Moon boots on steroids. The fun factor of this bike is through the roof and it is such a confidence builder. If only I could afford it, it would definitely be my next bike! 

Niner's Jet 9 RDO and RKT 9 RDO: I wish I could have tried the Jet 9 in XS. It would probably be a very close second favorite. I LOVED the geometry of the Jet 9. These two Niner felt like beautifully built Italian hiking boots (think Scarpa) with a Vibram sole. Sturdy, reliable, comfortable and they fit like a glove. 

By the way, these were all carbon bikes.

It was such an incredible opportunity to try so many high-end bikes and to see how different they all are. JF had been telling me for over a year that my bike doesn't fit me, that it's not the right bike for me and I keep saying that I am the problem (my lack of skills and experience). Now, I believe him. I just need to find a few extra thousand dollars...  

That was a lot of riding! And I feel stronger than ever! All that rock climbing and biking in Tucson, and now biking almost everyday. I know it's common knowledge, but I am blown away by the fact that the more active I am, the more energy I have. My legs feel super strong (now, if only my cardio could follow!). One of the many things I love about our lifestyle is that we don't "exercise", we explore. We are active because we want to discover all these beautiful trails and places around us. It's never been easier to be in shape!

That being said, I am now pretty sore from all that riding (and from the fall... I have a handle bar shape bruise on my left thigh...) and a few more scratches, but that's it.... Whereas JF broke a finger... Poor guy... He has a tendency to break things just as we hit the most epic bike spots (last time was in Burns Lake, now here and Moab...). Oh, and his vacation starts on Thursday and we were supposed to go rock climbing in Red Rock, NV. Back to the drawing board...

Gooseberry Mesa

The trail system is on top of that beautiful Mesa. The lookout you'll see in the photos below is where the arrow is pointing.

Girls' ride!

Fun on the slickrock!

What a view!!

We can see our camp from the top!

The Gooseberry Mesa trail system has a lot to offer. From the easy White Trail to the double diamond South Rim, it is a must for every mountain biker that comes to the Virgin area. We started on the practice loop and JF and I took a wrong turn and ended on Bowls and Ledges and on North Rim, some blue-black trails that were outside of my comfort zone. I hiked my bike quite a bit, but it was still pretty fun to ride on the slickrock. It takes me a bit to get used to its "stickiness" everytime (imagine riding on sand paper!), then I remember how grippy it is and what I can do on it. It's so much fun (when it's not too scary...).

Mountain biking on the Hurricane Rim Trail network, Utah

Jerud and Ching's Toaster reflects the light so beautifully.

Once again, we found an amazing free camping spot right by an incredible mountain bike trail network (also called the JEM trail since it is one of the main trails here). Biking from our bus is such a treat and we've been on our bikes almost everyday since!

We've been having fun trying to locate the trails that we see in the movie Where The Trail Ends  (some of it has been filmed right here in Virgin!), and have seen a few crazy lines out there on the mountains.

2 solar ovens and a great last weekend in Tucson

The kids made solar oven out of pizza boxes.

Very quickly. the soft tacos turned to taco shells and to tortilla chips! Success!

An old satellite dish and miror pieces for an even more powerful solar oven!

Feel the heat! 

Trying some Yeti bikes at Fantasy Island

Not much shade in the desert. The Westy shade will do!

I couldn'd help but smile everytime I looked at this, especially when climbing hills!

Fun on the slackline at Antonio and Pascale's.

We arrived at Fantasy Island trailhead a little before 8 am on Saturday morning to try some Yeti bikes for free. We rode for about an hour and when we came back to bring the bikes, we found out that another company (Niner) was there for a bike demo too. After riding the Santa Cruz bikes last week and the Yeti bikes this week, I felt that the problem with my lack of control on my bike was not a bike problem, but a rider problem.

As much as I liked these very expensive bike, they didn't make me feel like a more confident rider. I really liked the 27.5 wheels, the carbon frames, high-end double suspension and other components, but it was not that different from my bike. I am still pretty much a beginner rider. I really started mountain biking 3 years ago in Moab and haven't consistently mountain biked since. I have never felt fully in control on my bike, still struggle with sharp turns and fall a little too much... but even if JF kept telling me that my bike was probably too small for me (it's a 2012 XS Giant Trance XW) and that the geometry was probably not made for me, I kept thinking I was the problem (just like we tell people that want a "camera that makes good pictures" that it's not the camera, but the person behind it...).

So here I am, sweaty in my bike gear, standing by the Niner bikes' van with Mathilde. The 3 reps are busy talking with one guy. I look at them and wait. A good 5 minutes. They do not pay any attention to us. I give them the killer stare (the killer stare is a family specialty, my dad is the master; I am only the pupil...). To no avail. JF walks by and I ask him to come stand by us. 30 seconds later, a rep ask him if he wants to try a bike. You could see the steam coming out of my ears (and it was NOT from the heat). You see, as a small woman, I am used to being ignored, to not be seen, but it still triggers me incredibly. I remember having that epiphany, at 10, standing among a bunch of people in an ice cream parlor, holding my 2 dollar bill neatly folded in my hand. Waiting. But the two persons making the cones were never paying attention to me, they kept making eye contact with the other (taller) people around me. I turned around and left and went to get my dad who was waiting for me in the car. As soon as he walked in, we got served. So Saturday morning, I couldn't be that person for my 10 yo girl. Because I am short. And because I am a woman. Good thing I am not a young hot head anymore, because I would have turned around and left... and would never have ridden the bike that changed it all.

You see, Niner, as their name suggests only makes 29 inch wheel bikes. As you might or might not know, 29 inch wheels have been the thing for the last few years (instead of the standard 26 inch wheels) and now, many companies started making 27.5 inches. The thing is, most people told me that 29ers are not for small persons, so they were not on my radar, but Niner only makes a few models of 29 inch bikes. Or as the rep condescendly told me when I brought the bike back: contrary to the other brands, we make the wheels and adapt the frames to our wheels, that's why the XS and S bikes feel so right even with such big wheels.

I could not stop smiling the whole ride! I could ride everything and felt completely in control. I could climb hills like never before and had a BLAST. It was like nothing I had experienced before... And now, I want that bike. No, I *need* that bike to feel safe and in control. Mmmm... Now, I get why they do these demos. When you make something really well, you don't need to spend much in marketing: you just get people to try your product. They'll be convinced. Too bad I can't afford it... 

We are spending our last week in Tucson (after more than 2 months!) with the Liske family. Saturday night, Antonio invited us all at his place for a last dinner. He prepared a feast of delicious homemade tacos that we ate outside. As always, it's bittersweet to leave a place that has been home for a few months and especially people that you love. The good thing is that we will likely be back next year!

The Estrella Hedgehog Hustle - A mountain bike race in Phoenix, AZ

An Airstream turned into a coffee shop was selling local coffee on site.

Antonio (blue and green) at the start of the race.

SS for single speed (one gear)... or die hard that likes to suffer!

Can you feel the pain?

And the relief!

This guy glued his gel cubes straight on his bike frame for easy access... Not sure I want to know how he got them to stick there or how cruncry they were after a few laps in the desert dust...

Jason at the Finish! 1st place in the Rock Crushers! 

Diedra was racing too! So inspiring to see her on the course!

Some of the Fat Bike guys were pretty fun to watch!

Many people walked their bike to the finish line - or abandoned - because of the numerous flats. This guy jogged to the finish line with his bike on his back since his chain got jammed and his derailler broke...

Diedra at the Finish! 8th position even if she lost 3 min putting her chain back on. You rock, girl!

Diedra and Jason's sons were also racing. Jason was their support for the race. Here he is offering water to Charlie.

Cna you see the pride in these two faces? Charlie had an awesome race and finished 2nd. It was his first podium!

Nothing compares to the energy of a race. The palpable excitement and nervousness before the start, the exhaustion, the pride, the frustration, the satisfaction post-race... Just being there and soaking it up feels great. And that's exactly what JF did. Our friend Antonio was racing, as well as the Liske family that we met a month ago in Tucson.

JF and Antonio tried the technical loop on Friday (the day before the race) and realized it would be no easy feat. In his category (Single Speed), Antonio had to do two long loops (9.5 mile per loop) and two technical loops (4.7 miles per loop). JF was Antonio's support for the race. 

The Hedgehog Hustle is the second race of the MBAA series. The ambiance was great and it was fun to see all the categories. We are even thinking of doing the race next year with the kids (I'd likely sell energy balls and other healthy goodies, take pictures and cheer them on the side, races are not my thing).

Tour of the Santa Cruz bike Factory

Last year, we were lucky to have an awesome tour of the Specialized bike factory by the Creative Director and one of the first employee of Specialized. It truly remained a highlight from last year trip. We knew that this tour of the Santa Cruz bike factory would not compare, but it was very interesting to see a smaller production where still so much is done by hand.

Santa Cruz has been making mountain bikes since 1994 and there are still some of these bikes on the trails. They still make parts for these old bikes since people tend to keep them for a while. Good bikes age well! 

If you are in the area, you can rent one of their awesome bike (their cheapest bike is $3500, so needless to say, we are talking about high-end moutain bikes here!) for $20 for 4 hours (and they fully fit it for you, make sure to reserve a few weeks ahead of time) to go ride some of the great local trails. We are looking forward to check the IBIS bike factory too.

Of course, we were not allowed to take pictures, so these are pictures of the pump track located right behind their offices!

California fun!

Mount Shasta is considered a sacred mountain with an energy vortex. The mountain has long been revered by the Native Americans of the area, who regard it as the center of creation. 

These kids have so much imagination! Playing limbo under a fence!

Biking by brussel sprouts fields

Beautiful, secluded beach.

Two days ago, the plan was to hit the mountains to go to Yosemite, but the fact that we now needed to have chains for both our vehicles (California Law) and the fact that the nights would be well below freezing (and that our pipes could freeze made us change our mind. Two weeks prior, the original plan was to drive East of the Sierras to camp in some awesome boondocking sites with natural hot springs, but we had to change that plan because of the snow and high elevation of most of the camping spots we wanted to hit. So it was back to the drawing board, and disappointed to not visit Yosemite (again!), we decided to come back to an area we barely explored last year. Turns out, it was a great decision!! Biking by the sea in shorts and tank top (instead of rock climbing or mountain biking at 6 degrees Celcius) felt amazing! The smell coming from the crop of brussel sprouts, the sweet scent of the flowers and the sea breeze, leaving a sticky coat on our skin as we biked under the glorious sun was pure bliss!

Mountain Biking in Bend, OR

As usual, I only have pictures taken at the trailhead since I don't carry my big camera with me when moutain biking (one day, I will have a small mirrorless that will come with me everywhere I go!). I posted some phone pictures however on my personal Facebook page and on Road it up FB page. 

Phil's Trail system is one of the most popular mountain biking spot in Bend, and Phil's trail is a classic! When I read that if everybody would start mountain biking on a trail like this one, the whole world would mountain bike, I knew it was for me! I had a few headbutting moment with mountain biking in the last few months and I need a real fun ride to get back on the horse fully. Phil's trail was just what I needed! It was pure flowy non-technical fun!

It was cold (like 33 degree F cold, 6 degree Celcius) and we bundled up with 4 layers of wool and puffy coats before heading down the trail! 

We only had 4 days in Bend this time, but we will sure be back to ride more trails. On our list for next time: Mrazek, Deschutes River Trail, the Mackenzie River Trail and much more!